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Discussion Starter #1
Quick overview of how I Bosectomy-ed my dad's 2001 BRG. In short, the radio is being replaced with a Pioneer DEH-X4800BT and new speaker wire run to a pair of Lanzar VX830 8" 3-way coax speakers. I won't cover every step of the way like removing the door/interior panels, there are plenty of write-ups floating around and it's super easy to do!


For this install the only "specialty" tool you will need are Ford radio removal keys. Cheap everywhere, I think I have even seen them at Walmart. If you're in the Chicagoland area, you're welcome to use mine :).


Remove these plastic covers


Insert the radio keys


This is what the side of the radio looks like. When you insert the keys, don't just jam them in there. When you put the key in, you will feel some resistance and then you will feel it "slide" into place. If you don't, pull the key back a little and then move it forward again at a different angle. Usually they slide right in but some times it takes some fiddling. If you jam the metal tangs outwards too far, you're going to have a REAL hard time getting them back in place to get the radio out. Use patience here.


This is what you will be left with.


The wire harness that you will need is Metra 70-7901. Other manufactures make this harness as well like Scosche, American International, etc. Only the harness on the right will be used because the only connections that need to be made between it and your stereo harness are:
Yellow: Constant 12v
Red: Switched/ignition 12v
Blue: Power antenna
Reason being is the new speaker wire that will be run gets connected directly to the speaker leads coming off the radio.


Now, remove the door panels and take the speaker out.


Now comes the scary part for some..........remove the door! It's really not that bad, but you will need an extra set of hands. Loosen the door plug, remove the door stop pin, and the 4 bolts holding the door on.(Take out the top bolt last) In all reality, you can have the door off in 5-10min.(Don't be scared!)

 

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Discussion Starter #2
Now that the door is off(note the door plug and how the green clip pops up to remove it.) a hole needs to be drilled into the door plug to allow speaker wire to pass through from the cabin into the door. I used two drill bits to step the hole size up to make sure I didn’t damage the plug or remove too much material. I started with a 1/8 bit and then moved to a 15/64.





Now that the hole is made, run your speaker wire from the door, through the plug(The car side already has a hole, one does not need to be drilled) into the cabin and up to the radio area. Then bolt your door back up.





Now it’s time for the speakers to go in. I used female terminals on all speaker wires to make easy connections to the speakers.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Next comes the 8” XTC foam baffles. I typically like to make a larger opening that just a small hole for the speaker wire. I’ve found that giving this little extra “port hole” allows for a little extra air movement and allows the speaker to sound a little “fuller” on the low end.



For the tweeter connection I used Red as positive and Green as negative, then ran the wire down to the speaker opening in the door. There is a small hole in the door that is near the top of the speaker behind the moisture barrier where you can sneak the wire into the door to get it behind the speaker.(I prefer solder+tape/heat shrink, but to be honest if you don’t have it it’s not a deal breaker. Just make sure you thoroughly seal your connection)




Next step is make your connections at the speaker, install using the factory screws & locations, and trim the foam baffle. Once complete, reinstall your door panel.



 

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Discussion Starter #4
I mounted the Bluetooth microphone on top of the steering column right in front of the odometer. It’s pretty small and doesn’t really block it all that much.




Stereo/dash connections. (Unfortunately I forgot to take pics so enjoy the crude drawing!) Essentially the Metra wire harness purchased is only used for power connections and the power antenna. The speaker wires that were run from the doors up to behind the radio will be connected DIRECTLY to the stereo harness coming off the back of the aftermarket radio that is going in the car.(In this case Pioneer)

These are the connections that I made behind the stereo
Pioneer Yellow ----------> Metra Yellow
Pioneer Red ----------> Metra Red
Pioneer Blue/White ----------> Metra Blue
Pioneer White(Pink in diagram) ----------> Positive speaker wire running to the driver side speaker
Pioneer White/Black(Pink in diagram) ----------> Negative speaker wire running to the driver side speaker
Pioneer Gray ----------> Positive speaker wire running to the passenger side speaker
Pioneer Gray/Black ----------> Negative speaker wire running to the passenger side speaker
Pioneer Black ----------> Single black plug next to the OEM radio harness.(See radio removal picture above)


Once you have made your connections, slide in the metal cage/bracket that comes with your stereo, bend the appropriate tabs to lock it in place, plug in all of your connections and you’re ready to jam!(Bluetooth, wire harness, antenna, etc.)



 

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Man, thanks for posting this up. I'm about to do a similar thing on my 2001 BRG.
I've got a marine rated JVC stereo coming with black on white display in order to help during top-down or just sunny days and same Lanzar speakers.

Quick question - part of door connection you've drilled out - what wires/plugs does this remove in the center of the connection piece?

How's the sound? Are you missing highs from the higher mounted OEM tweeters at all? My understanding is that you didn't use a dedicated amp - does stereo give enough power to enjoy the stereo with top down?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Quick question - part of door connection you've drilled out - what wires/plugs does this remove in the center of the connection piece?
Nothing. There aren't any wires in there in the first place.

How's the sound? Are you missing highs from the higher mounted OEM tweeters at all? My understanding is that you didn't use a dedicated amp - does stereo give enough power to enjoy the stereo with top down?
Sounds great, nice and full with how the EQ is adjusted. Correct no external amp, the two Lanzar speakers and factory tweeters are running off of the Pioneer radio. Definitely not missing any highs. The only scenario where I can see where an amp would be needed is if you had a loud exhaust and were cruising around the interstate at ~80mph with the top down lol.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Do you need to replace the wiring for this? I was under the impression that you just needed to swap the speakers, pull the amp, and replace the head unit.
I have found it is faster to do so. While I wasn't on a time crunch to get the car done, I definitely wanted to get it done in an afternoon. I took a peek at the factory amp and didn't see a quick/easy way to use any of the existing wires that were in the car, especially since the wire colors in the doors are exactly the same to each other, and I only saw them appear once at the amp.

This is about my 5th or 6th NB I have ran new speaker wire, and can say that in the time it takes you to dig the factory amp out of the car, you can have the doors off, holes drilled and wire run into the car. Sounds intimidating but it literally took me 10 minutes per door. Maybe 15-20min for your first time. The doors are so small it's cake.

-Remove the door panel
-Knock the door stop pin out
-Stack blocks of wood, crates, books, etc up to the bottom of the door and cover them with a towel or blanket.(To rest the door on if you are doing it solo)
-Loosen and remove all bolts except for the top one
-Hold the door with one hand and turn the last bolt the last few turns and the door will drop.
-Disconnect the door plug, drill the hole, feed the wire, and then put the door back on the hinges.
 

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So i'm not quite clear on how you've wired up factory tweeters: did you connect factory tweeter to the Lanzar (which has 4 connections) or ran a second wire back to the HU? If it is not wired to Lanzar - the second wire pair is dedicated to built-in Lanzar tweeter and HU connection?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
So i'm not quite clear on how you've wired up factory tweeters: did you connect factory tweeter to the Lanzar (which has 4 connections) or ran a second wire back to the HU? If it is not wired to Lanzar - the second wire pair is dedicated to built-in Lanzar tweeter and HU connection?
I took the red(+) and green (-)wires from the tweeter and ran it down to the positive and negative of the Lanzar speaker.
 

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Do you know if it is possible to make antenna go up only when switching to radio instead of as soon as stereo HU is turned on?
 

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Discussion Starter #14
That depends on the aftermarket stereo you decide to put in. Some cut the power to the antenna wire when a source other than radio is selected. The only one that comes to mind that I know use to do that was JVC, but it's been a good few years since I installed one so that may have changed.

The other option is to use a simple toggle switch you manually hit when you want to listen to the radio.
 

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Hey, just used your info from this thread to put my Lanzars and marine rated JVC BT/CD unit. Huge thanks for posting this up, it helped me!
 

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I was a pain to remove the doors (those pins were stubborn) and I also dropped one of the bolts inside the front quarter panel, but was able to get it out fairly quickly. Otherwise wasn't bad, much better than getting into engine or transmission, that's for sure.
 
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