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253 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
92' Red NA IRTB High Comp 1.6 Build a.k.a --> r3volt (Updated)

Hello, for starters my name is Katelynn or Kate. I have an extensive automotive background, I have worked with a vintage race shop(J and L Fabricating). I have track experience from friends/family with the SCCA sanctioning body. I am now working for an Auto Body/Glass/Mechanic shop. If I can't do it to my car I end up not going that route because I have a vision I want to see of my car. I help a local group called MiataNW and provide advice and hoping once my car is done to spend some long overdue nights talking. <3

Thank you for clicking, and hopefully you find this build interesting; it will be a slow progress build since money is tight. But I try my hardest to take pictures along the way.

Check me out on Instagram @ r3volt253 -- I post progress pictures daily of what I am working on.

~~~~~~***** !Progress Status/Updates! ***** ~~~~~~
*Updated 4/26 Added Heat Shielding + Engine Bay Shave (Plumped up wire tuck text)*
*Updated 5/2 Added a Teaser Pic of the shaved Engine bay *
*Updated 5/5 Added Shaved Bay Pics + Waiting on Paint *DONE* *
*Updated 5/6 Added Heatshielding Pics + Walk through on Firewall *
*Updated 5/11 Added Progress Picture on Motor + Looming *
*Updated 6/10 Added Dash Bar Paint Job *
*Updated 6/11 Added Wire Tuck Brackets + Looming Route - Cleaned up images/Replys added two new sections Engine Work and Interior Work*
*Updated 6/13 Added Shaved Engine Bay Pics All Primered *
*Updated 8/26 Re-did Primer Job to Engine Bay / Changed Cars Final Color *
*Update 9/1 Changed out Primer Pictures*
*Update 9/4 Relocated Duplicate Pictures to correct location*
*Update 12/18 Waiting on parts + Better Weather (Updated Intro)*

(Switching to Month/Year Due to time lapse in Updates)

*Update 2/14 Added Pictures of FM Frame Rail*
*Update 3/14 Added Pictures of ITBs + New Wheels for Blackie + Edited Planned Mods/Mods*
*Update 3/14 Added Pictures of Satsop Nuclear Plant Cruise*
*Update 3/14 Added Pictures of Polished ITB Adapter and Bolted onto Enginer - Upgraded Post #9 for Future Guide on ITB Rebuilding*
*Update 4/14 Rx7 Injectors Arrived + Ordered OBX Fuel Rail*
*Update 4/14 Added Pictures of Painted Transmission + Fuel Rail (TooTall)*
*Update 5/14 Added Pictures of Finished Engine Bay*
*Update 6/14 Installed Engine; waiting to turn key on wiring (Pictures soon)*
*Update 6/14 Added Pictures of Head + Video of First Run*
*Update 6/25-28/14 Added Pictures of Port n Polish + Valve work and Plumped up Wire Tuck Text! Added Port Polish Tips!*
*Update 6/29 Added Pictures of Painted Throttle Bodies/Cam Gears/Cleaned up Head*
*Update 7/18 Finished Engine Assembly; prepd Engine Bay for re-spray; cleaned up wiring*
*Update 9/12 Motor Installed and Running - Tuning Process*
*Update 9/15 Fixed Wiring Harness + Replaced Starter - Awaiting Parts*
*Update 10/15 Fixed ECU; Finished Driver side wiring - Pictures from Laguna Seca Trip*
*Update 8/16 Finished rebuilding Throttle Bodies; Touching up ECU - Making second wiring harness*
*Update 9/16 Ordered new Hardware; Installed new Suspension / Cleaned up few odds and ends.*
*Updated 6/17 Car is running driving with minor fixes. Almost all the parts are on the car. lol
*Updated 6/17 Installed LRB undertray and removed brake booster hardline. Cleaned up engine bay and wiring, need to touch up paint.
*Updated 7/17 Began final assembly of Hardtop Window, Body Work and final assembly of wiring harness.*
*Updated 7/17 In testing phase of new harness, finish hard top and fitted AK v1 Fender Flare to the LR. Ordered Eagle Vacuum Block and 15mm Wheel Spacers*
*Updated 7/17 Tested harness fitment, finished AK v1 Fender Flares install. Waiting on parts/installing ECU*
*Updated 7/17 Harness works, ECU Flashed and firmware updated. Tune Installed. Installed Spacers and Vacuum Block*
*Updated 8/17 Replaced Head then developed rod knock. Finished installing interior and firewall plate*
*Updated 9/17 Installed New to me Engine. Installed LC-1 Wideband and began tuning*

What you will see in this thread--
Custom work/fabrication
Detailed walk through!

Here is how she sits prior to my most recent pojects on her.

So here is a list of my "Plans/Parts".

Chassis + Suspension --
[X]Enkie Comps 15x9 +25 Wheels on Toyo Eclipses 205/50/15
[X]BCBR 6k/8k Coilovers
[X]1.8 Front and Rear Brake Upgrade + Slotted Rotors
[X]Super Miata Brake Lines (Front)
[X]Flying Miata Strut Tower Brace
[X]Flying Miata 20mm Solid Front Sway Bar
[X]Flying Miata Solid Rear Sway Bar
[ X]Super Miata Adjustable Sway Bar End Links (Sphericals FTW)
[X]Shaved and Painted Engine Bay
[X]Jass Low Profile Headlights
[X]Snug Hard Top
[X]DIY Vented Hard Top Window
[X]Smoked Front Turn Signals
[X]Green LED License Plate Lights
[X]Custom Front License Plate Holder
[X]Trunk Latch Delete
[ ]Trunk Key Hole Delete
[X]Shaved Engine Bay
[ ]Garage Star Radiator Cover
[ ]Garage Star Cowl Cover (Went Missing.. /sob)
[X]LRB Undertray + Front Bumper Sides
[X]AK v1 Fender Flares
[X]Ebay/Custom Side Air Diffusers
[X]Hardtop Spoiler
[X]Front Tow Hook
[X]Fiberglass Front Fenders
[ ]Garage Star Fender Braces *maybe*
[X]Relocated Hood Release Cable

Interior --
[X]AEM Wideband o2 Gauge
[X]AEM Oil Temp Gauge
[X]Revlimiter JNC Gauge Faces
[ ]Hard Dog Double Diagonal Roll Bar
[X]OEM Alum Miata "Roadster" Door Sills
[X]NRG Quick Release
[ ]Nardi Deep Corn Black Leather with Red Stitching
[ ]Custom Leather Covered Gauge Bezel
[X]Leather with Red Stitching Shift Boot and E-Brake
[X]Red Stitching Leather wrapped seats
[X]AK Shorty Console
[X]Heat Shield Interior/Firewall
[X]Clutch Override Panel
[X]Humming Aero Shift Knob
[X]BroadView 400mm Rearview Mirror

Engine + Electrical --
[X]Ebay 2-Core Aluminum Radiator
[X]Aeromotive Fuel Pressure Regulator
[X]Flying Miata Hood Rods
[X]Garage star One Piece Clutch Line
[X]Mishimoto Oil Filter Spacer
[X]AEM Oil Temp Sensor
[X]AEM AFR Sensor
[X]LC-1 Innovative Wideband Controller
[X]GM IAT Sensor
[X]Begi Coolant Re-route Kit
[X]OBX Fuel Rail
[X]Red Rx8 550cc Injectors
[X]ARP Main Studs
[X]ACL Race Main Bearing
[X]ACL Connecting Rod Bearings
[X]Custom Adjustable Cam Gears (Thanks to Dave)
[X]Shaved Head .025 + Port Matched
[X]Techno Toy Tunning AE101 1.6 Adapter (Thanks TooTall)
[X]AE101s ITB (Thanks TooTall)
[X]Custom 70mm Velocity Stacks
[X]ITG Filter with Custom Backing Plate
[X]Eagle Vacuum Block - Polished
[X]Ebay Catch Can
[X]Ebay Overflow Tank
[ ]Suzuki Cappuccino Washer Fluid Bottle
[X]Polished Oilpan
[X]4-2-1 JR Header(Thanks to my Uncle)
[X]Competion Motor Mounts
[X]Toyota CoPs
[ ]Custom 2.5 Double Resonator Exhaust
[X]Custom Wiring Harness + Tuck
[ ]Remote Start

Power Train --
[ ]Torsen Type II LSD (4.1)
[ ]1.8 CV Axles
[ ]Stock 5 Speed Tranny w/ RX7 5th Gear [1st Gen]
[X]Exedy Stage 1 Clutch + Pressure Plate

253 Posts
Discussion Starter · #2 · (Edited)
So now that you have an idea of what I am trying to make, you probably wan't some progress shots eh? Well enjoy!

History on the Car! --
-I like to start from the ground up, so a little history on this car in a nut shell. It was bought from a Impound Auction with a snapped Half Shaft, Dented Door, Taco'd Subframe, Snapped Driveline, and a few other ruined parts. Previous owner slid into a ditch. :D While I was away in college my father fixed all the damage and gave it to me as a present for graduation. So now its in my hands for my evil bidding!

Car Accident --
-Shortly after being fixed from the previous accident I was hit in the rear at a dead stop by someone going 45 in a lifted Jeep. Did this.. --

New 92' Black and Tan! YA! --
-Was listed as a complete total, but luckily someone in Seattle was selling a Black and Tan 92' with 94k Miles for a really good price. So we drove out to seattle and picked up the car till we had the time to go back and fix the damage on the Red 92'. Came with the limited edition Nardi shifter and all new upholstery. From left to right (Patrick (Cousin), Ronnie (Uncle), Mine!)

Fixing the Accident Damage --
-After the Red 92' sat for about a year my dad sold me his rear quarter panel fenders. Then I purchased a trunk, lights, rear finish panel, bumper, and a cut off of about 5 inches of a rear end to replace mine.

-We started off with removing all the broken parts, and hooking a chain to a tree and pulling the metal up and out on the driver side so it would be easier to cut.
-We then removed the bumper and began drilling out all the spot welds that held the rear end of the car on. Then with a Grinder we put a cut off disk on it, and made a long incision just inside the fender well to the point of no more damage. So if you cut down the side of the fender we matched the fender well cut to that one making a right angle.

-Then drilled out the seam welds near the rain rail for the soft top, made a cut near the Frankenstein bolts towards the trunk. Took a hammer and chisel and began prying the fender off the car at all the spot welds if we missed any loose material. Did this on both sides and along the whole back side of the car.

The end result is the below picture, but imagine not having the rear piece there at all. Both fenders on the rear were cut away exposing the inner fender and allowing us to attach the new fenders in the same fashion.
All the shiny spots are the spot welds we had to refill and then grind smooth.

Donor Fender in place Passanger Side --
-After the cuts and putting in the rear section, we then proceeded to match up the cuts on the car to the ones on the donor fender, leaving no overlap and no gap. The cut edges had to be exact or there would be no material to weld together if too far apart.

-The hardest part was making sure all cuts matched, then welding the fender well cuts back together was quite hard due to the suspension being in the way, we had to jack the car up as high as possible and have it on lifted jack stands (almost 2 ft) just to get the right angle. If we had a lift it would have been much easier.

The below picture is the result of the cutting and placement. As you can see the cut near the Drip rail and down the side of the fender.

Fast Forwarding a year, NEW Parts! --
-This was about a year later shot. Found someone selling some Kosei K1's Powder Coated white, and finally saved up enough money to pick up some Nitto Neo Gen 205/50/15s. I couldn't believe how light the rims were. I had also installed a new top, I tell ya doing it yourself is a pain in the butt, but well worth it. This photo was taken after I put my new seats in as you can "Somewhat" see.

Ebay Steering Wheel + NRG Quick Release + NRG Short Hub Adapter + NRG Horn
-Was relatively easy on the install, I did it all in about 30 mins. Hardest part was figuring out if I need the conductive ring on the Hub or not.

-So as a break down, Undo the 4 bolts holding the air bag in,unhook the wiring for the airbag and the horn. Lock your steering wheel, and undo the center nut. Either use a steering wheel puller or get lucky and tug real hard and the stock wheel should pop off. Feed the wires through and then your left with seeing your Lock Spring and a few wires. What I did was leave the lock spring in and snip'd the little Diving board plastic that came out above the wiring so my hub would sit flush.

- This is the part were you can snip off the air bag wiring and use the air bag defeat tricks stated throughout the forums.Put the hub on as straight as possible (eg line up the holes with the wheel there and see if its centered or close too it.) and feed the wires through. Torque on that center Nut. Set up the wiring for the horn, don't hook it up though(mine I used butt connectors).. Run it through the center of your steering wheel. Hook it up. Put in the bolts for the wheel and the center plate that holds your horn. Enjoy!.

- I had a problem with my quick release it was off centered, so the screws would not touch the flush mounted screws to complete the horn connectivity. So we pulled the bottom half of the quick release out, undid the flush mounted screws, drilled some new holes in the plastic cover for them to mount so it lined up with the pins. Put it all back together and bam the horn worked. Ill snap some pictures of the housing if anyone needs a hand with this problem.

Here's us putting in the new seats. -- Black Leather w/ Red Stiching
Picked them up from my Uncle as he purchased them to use a while back but wen't another route. These things were such a tight fit, they literally leave you NO extra material on the back to put the pins in.

It was quite easy, just hard on the fingertips. After you remove the rails and side brackets its about 30 or 40 little C clips that you cut and wham bam. Be careful when doing the bottom part, as there is quite a few hidden in between the foam. Pull to hard to early and you may rip the rod out of the cushion. :cry2:

If you ever plan to do your own, I suggest getting your Seat Pans Powder Coated to prevent any future rusting. It will also make any future cushion swaps easier. (They wont stick to the pans and tear)

- I also suggest painting your rails a little bit near the bolt holes to prevent rust, also put some grease on the bolts so IF they get stuck it wont be rusted in. :D

Jass Low Profile Headlight Kit --
-Was really excited for this kit, originally planned to make my own from scratch. But I saw the chance to pick these up for a decent price and they look so clean!

-For starters it took me about 5hrs to install. What I did was first, unplugged all wiring for the headlights (motor and light). Put them in the up right position, and undo the headlight side Covers (4 screws) then also unto the top metal cover (4 Bolts). Now you can see what you are working on.
-Remove the headlight and the metal bracket that is held on by the adjustment screws. Remove the screws along with all the plastic inserts (set one aside you will need it) Then remove the metal back plate for the light. Now all that should be left is the light frame.
-Pop the arm off the ball joint that pulls the headlight up and down. Then also remove the arm from the motor. Retain the nut and washer.
-Now on mine the ball joint bracket on the headlight was pinch welded to it, unlike the guide which said it was to be 3 bolts. Luckily I had a drill handy and drilled out the pinch welds, then took a hammer and chisel and lightly pry-ed the bracket off. Be careful not to bend the bottom of the light bucket because you will be using that as your mounting surface.
-After that is all said and done, put on the new bracket + arm that came with the kit. Then also put on the new rectangle headlight frame, but before screwing it on take one of those plastic adjustment sleeves and put it in the bottom hole so the light sits further up! Then put the new screws in the top corners with the springs on the backside then put the nut on. The bottom hole will use one of the old adjustment screws. Then take the light and screw it onto the new Rectangle housing with the provided screws.
You now have a new headlight bucket waiting to be put back into the car! Congrats.
-You should have a bent stopper like screw, remove the rubber grommet from the old one and put it on the bent screw. Put it in the old ones place. Now walk back to your car and put that bad boy back in the way you remove it. Two Pivot Bolts + arm bolts. I Suggest installing it with the lights DOWN Because the lights wont sit flush with your hood and you want both lights to be equal prior to adjustment.
-Place on the top cover then put on the side covers, the plastic washer is used for the closest screw to the headlight so it does not rub.
-Plug everything in and adjust the arm + stopper till you get them where you like them. Sit back and enjoy your success.

What they look like up close -- (also installed my smoked turn signals at the same time:D )

4-2-1 Jackson Racing Header
Then my uncle was nice enough to give me a header as a gift. It was just collecting dust anyways!

-So this is pretty straight forward, move the MAF and ducting so you can get to the exhaust bolts. Undo the exhaust bolts then crawl under the car and remove the two bolts prior to the Catalytic Converter. Don't forget a new gasket!
-For me my exhaust was all one piece from header to tail pipe. So I had to cut the stock header off and weld on a flange (Couldn't believe most exhaust shops wont sell you a flange). Wasn't too hard, jacked the car up about 2 ft so we could move the exhaust about since it was all once piece from the Cat on also.
-With this header I had to extend my O2 sensor wire by about 1 ft so I had some extra wire just in case. The bunge for it is so far down you have to put it in from UNDER the car. Which actually I thought was pretty nice, it tucks up really easy and tons of space near the tranny wall and tranny to torque it in.
-Plug back in your o2 sensor and put the bolts back in. Sit back and enjoy your new header!

253 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
How to break a stock diff housing! + Replacement --
-Took about 6 hrs to replace due to my Output shafts teeth were mushroomed inside the housing.

-I hope your in for a run! Removing this thing is quite easy if you have a non one piece exhaust. LOL
-Best way to do it w/o removing tons of parts. Take off rear tires then undo the outer Upper LCA bolt and loosen the lower LCA bolt so you can bring the spindle outwards (Dont do that yet though)

-Now with your car in the air undo the driveline bolts and the half shaft bolts.Undo the PPF bolts. Also while you are under there remove any subframe braces you have (RB, OEM, etc) Also undo your exhaust from the grommets and or the bolts if your exhaust is a bolt on. Now with all that done go back to each spindle in the rear and pull it towards you slowly, it should pivot outwards pulling the half shafts away from the differential.

-Back under the car we now take a jack and put it under the differential with a little upward tension. Undo the housing Arm bolts from the subframe. Now lower the jack slowly and it should come away from the studs on the subframe but not down and out because its resting on the PPF. If you didn't remove this with the bolts now is the time, there is a adapter that centers one of the PPF bolts on the differential, you need to pry it out. Then Wiggle the differential a little bit and get it from out the PPF.

-Now with it out, Drain the diff, and begin prying out the output shafts. Be careful not to damage the metal/rubber gasket for those. (One of my output shafts had mushroomed teeth)
-With those removed you can now take apart the housing, undo all the bolts then use a chisel or flat head screw driver, tap on it and it should separate!

-I suggest checking your backlash and Teeth for damage and change. It's worth it! I then put my donor housing on my differential put the gasket sealer on the mating surface. Put all the bolts in torqued to spec's. Put the output shafts back in and fill her up.

-Same as removal set it on the jack slide it into the PPF line up the holes and have fun. It will be a fight to get them in for a bit but then they will just SLIDE right in when its not binding.

-- Congrats you now swapped half a differential housing! lol
Pictures of my broken housing, all the junk in the way!

Oh Pretty! 323 gtx Valve Cover --
Picture is blurry because I ran my phone over... Don't ask.. lol! I pluged the back breather line and used a mini Open Air Breather for the side. Put it on w/o paint because I was excited! Later on you will see it painted.

Some Time passes, because people suck! --
Someone broke into my car and tried to steal my stereo. Cut my brand new top. I didn't have money for a new top. They tried to pry it out with a knife, luckily they didn't break the face plate mounting plate so I just unscrewed it push the parts back in and put it back together. Works just fine!.
- Funny enough the idiot didn't steal the 35$ Car charger, he took a book of burned CD's and my Gunner Optic Flex Shades. Left my face plate though. Whew..

One day at work that Luck! --
Had a friend of mine in my 92' Black and Tan after work one night, I decided to light the tires up and well like a dumb ass I was low on oil and spun a Rod Bearing. (Didn't know till the tear down). 300$ later we found a motor that turned out to be just as bad as the one currently in the car (Bad rings). But still swapped the motor into it and now had a donor motor to start my work!

So currently my DD is the black and tan 92'

Motor Rebuild? I think so! --
Sadly I didn't have the money for the rods and or any other parts. So instead I went with a stock rebuild till later down the road I can afford it all. Still have a spare motor waiting. --

I won't go into deep detail on a tear down, most people know how to do this!

Hiccup? Na! Time to go all Cut happy! --
Everything was going pretty smooth, most parts came right off. Tons of carbon build up on the pistons ofc. But after removing the oil pan and rods we tried to remove the crank. (Btw I spun #4 Rod bearing paid 100$ for a turned Crank)
-Sadly the Cam Belt Pulley Gear was rusted on the nose of the crank, so I couldn't remove the oil pump or the crank from the block. We let it sit with some W40 and other misc "Rust Breakers" but nothing worked. So, I looked at it this way, I was going to get the crank fixed anyways. 10 mins later with a Grinder we cut into the Cam Pulley Gear and then took a chisel to it and it slid right off!

The Crank! Its FREEEE!! --
- The next morning I drop'd it off at our local shop and had it cleaned and re balanced. Came out to 102$

Motor Rebuild! --
-Bought a storage container and made a home made solvent tank, instead of getting it machined or anything we did the honing resurfacing and prep work ourselfs. (No warp on the head)
-Decided a nice light blue would sit well with what I am trying to do. Put on about 3 coats and still had some spots flake off because caked on Grease; peeled the rest of the corners off and did another 2 coats and now its spotless.

Crank BACK! --
-Didn't take a picture but just drop'd it straight in after my Crank Bearings came in and put those + the Oil Pump in place.
-I never realized how hard it is to get an oil pump for the 1.6's!! Thank you ebay!
Teaser pic with the oil/water and oil pan sitting in place.

Decided hmm.. lets polish the oilpan!
-Took about 3 days it came out really well for my first time ever polishing anything. I picked up the kit from -- Got the Hand drill kit (Used it on a drill press)
-I would suggest to anyone doing it yourself, start with a 320 Grit to get it smooth, anything coarse will make it harder to remove sanding scratches and you will spend most of your time re sanding it with 600 grit trying to remove them. Take your time and enjoy it; remember its for you and what you want out of it!
Before --
After --

Heads back! Mhh Looks good! --
-While I was polishing the head was at the shop (Took them two weeks sadly) But I got all new springs keepers and gaskets. I didn't take any pictures of it alone, but I will be putting it all together in the coming days. Will snag some pictures of the port work. =P

Teaser Time! -- hehe
-Here is a teaser pic of parts just sitting in place. I Prep'd the water pump oil pump and the gaskets for the permanent home.
-Then I decided on the final color scheme for my Valve Cover. Light Blue base with Black raised lines and Red Lettering. Man I tell you it was a pain to tape off, but with a tiny bit of grease it made the job OMG so easy.

Coolant Re-Route? I think so! --
-I wanted to retain my heater core because well, I live in Washington and it gets cold some nights! Yea I am a wimp!
-Snagged a whole bunch of odds and ends off some old miata owner. He had some radiator hose that worked perfect. Also picked up a 12in Section of 1 1/2 Inch Chrome Plated Copper Tubing @ Home Depot for the straight pipe.
-I then wen't to orielly's and asked if I could surf there coolant hose wall and found a beauty of a bend on this hose that would allow it to come down and up to the front of the car.
-I wanted to retain all the plugs and so on. Didn't feel safe taping my new block so I picked up BEGI Coolant Back plate. It has plugs and holes for every hose and sensor allowing me to relocate the front sensor to the rear.
-Also picked up a Freezer plug tapped that in on the front, then installed the BEGI Block off plate.
-- Total Cost was about 115$ --

windows print screen

Nice weather? LETS DO THIS! --
-I had a day off and the weather was going to be nice for the next few days. Pulled the motor in preparation for the new motor and to also do a wire tuck + shaved engine bay.
-I plan to paint it white. The most you will see in the bay will be the Brake Booster Plug, The Washer Plug, and the MAF wiring.
-After pulling so many motors this one only took me 2 hrs. (Might start doing this to replace clutches.. haha I think its easier?)

Wire Tuck! Stage 1 --
-This wont be amazingly detailed because the simple fact of how much of it is preference and how OMG time consuming it is.-
-- FYI My Motor was removed during this tuck --
-- Remove the Battery Terminals! --
-- Interior --
-For starters Plan for the car to be down for about 2 weeks give or take. Possibly less depending on how extensive you want your tuck.
-If you have a 1.6 YOU MUST gut your interior or you cannot re-route your fuse box to the inside of your car. I mean everything minus the steering column. You can leave the plate covering the ECU and anything the wires are plugged into near the steering column. (Fuses, Blinker, Air Bag Module, etc.)
-Also remove all carpet minus the piece below the soft top. Lift it up and remove that panel that covers the trunk openings. Not the smaller fuel pump and gas tank one. To fully remove the panel from the car you need to unhook it from the latch system. Pull on the cord a little bit and move the ball out of the slip.
-Congrats your cockpit is ready for wires! Now to plan were everything goes

-- Below is my interior fully gutted (1/2) --

-- (2/2) --

Engine Bay --
-FYI I did not have my motor in, which made planning a little bit easier.
- For starters, plan on what you want to keep in the bay and what you plan to remove.
- I am leaving only my coolant overflow,brake and clutch cylinders.
- Relocated my Washer Bottle to my trunk (Nifty eh?) Just need a long tube. Relocated my fuse box just above my heater core plastic tubing (If you have AC, you need to find another spot), my EGR and Vacuum Tester + Ground on the wall next to my blower (Picture soon) I will just be connecting both Vacuum Lines to themselves, since I am on a stock ECU.
-Also I suggest removing your Headlight Buckets! Because it covers the hole I plan to use for the wires to enter the engine bay!
-Next up unbolt EVERYTHING, EGR, Fuse Box, Coolant, Washer Bottle, etc. Also unplug as much as possible. Coil Pack,O2 Sensor, CAS, anything plugged to the motor! LABEL THINGS if you are unsure! Set everything that came completely out aside, possibly in a tote.
-After unbolting the fuse box and its brackets, make sure to pull all the plugs that you can (the PUSH plastic ones, none of the metal pins) out of the bottom of the fuse box or you can't get the loom in the **** pit.
-Now grab a pair of snippers and start cutting all the plastic zip ties keeping the loom to the fenders and or parts of the bay. Also if you have it a Door Panel Puller (the Two prong thingy!) pry out what you do not want to snip. Don't undo the loom at this point. Repeat it on both sides.
-Now if you are alone this part is fun. Roll down your window on both sides, now stand just before your front tire and push the big grommet for the main loom INSIDE the bay, should just pop right in. Now slowly pull with one hand on the inside of the **** pit while the other feeds the wires making sure nothing snags. Try to feed the plugs/adapters in first so you don't damage them. After that is all said and done you will end up with the picture below!

Here is a shot with the passenger side loom pulled into the **** pit! Soo many wires! What to do!

Wire Tuck! Stage 2 -- (Passenger and Driver side de-looming)
-Now with all the wires inside the bay you can begin the FUN STUFF!!
-Ok some people have said the loom is all sticky after removing the sleeve but mine wasn't. So maybe wear gloves? Personally I started AT the big rubber boot and go to the end, reason being is because the way the tape is wrapped. Make little snips with a knife or scissors were it is safe so you don't cut any wires. This is honestly the longest part of this, it took me ~4hrs to do both sides. But I was also removing all the air bag wiring also.
-Once you get to the big rubber boot, this is were you NEED TO BE SURE you wan't to continue! Because you must cut the boot off to continue.
-- Congrats you managed to remove all your wiring and de-loom it all! YA! Now go wash your hands.. lol

-- Passenger Side Shot de-loomed --
-- Passenger Side De-loomed with all the tape at the side.

Cockpit wires all deloomed with the driver side pulled into the bay.(Skip this if you don't plan to remove your air bag wiring)

---------------------------------- Next POST! ---------------------------------------------

253 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
Wire Tuck! Stage 2 -- (Fuse Box)
-You'r probably thinking your home free eh? WELL NO! Reason I said to wash your hands well, its because you need to get on your hands and knees and have MORE FUN!.
-My goal was to remove and relocate everything with keeping it also simple and manageable/easy access!
-The fuse box is pretty easy, hopefully you had the terminals off. Go to the trunk and unbolt the ground wire, then to the **** pit reach towards the trunk from the passenger side at the terminal wires. There should be a rubber grommet pull it up. Then (if your NOT stock ride height and or no engine) bring a knife or scissors and go near your PPF. There is also a bolt on ground on your PPF (10MM) I suggest not braking the plastic clips just for any reason you want to put it back. Undo the harness all the way to the engine bay. Also reach on top of your tranny and unplug all 3 connectors (two Butt Connectors and one plug).
-Now go back to the plastic grommet just before the trunk but from under the car, there is two tabs push them in and pull it down and out, HURAY! your loom is now free to come out of the trunk.
-If you have your engine in, this part may be hard, you need to undo the loom from the tranny bracket and also remove the the bracket holding the loom to the engine bay. Tug on the wire till it comes free and all out of the engine bay, make sure to check as you pull so you don't ruin any wires. (I may have missed something my motor was out when I did the tuck)
-Your engine bay should look like the two shots below! Give or take an engine and other parts. lol (I later remove my brake booster and clutch slave since I plan to paint the bay)
-HUZZAH your engine bay is WIRE Free! Isn't it Sexy??

-- Ignore the Fuse Box Harness I had set it there to pick up. --

Wire Tuck! Stage 3 -- (Routing Options)
- This is were you plan to run your wires, I honestly can't see any better place for them to come out to be out of sight from everything else. The only down side to this spot is the run off from the windshield water, but I plan to cover all the wiring with loom and also put Sealer on the whole opening to prevent water from getting in.
- I then planned to run my brake booster wiring out the rubber grommet of my Speedo cable. The rest of my engine wiring (Coil Pack,O2,CAS,Fuel Injectors,etc) there was a plugged hole on the firewall so all I need to do is cut the padding on the inside to feed the wires out. They will be partial hidden by the Throttle Body.(Picture soon)

-- Cut mark one! --

Wire Tuck Stage 3! -- (Continue...)
-Before you get ahead of yourself partially retape some of the wires to keep them more manageable, Anything that is going outside of your cut you can leave un-taped. But the rest that will be staying inside the car I suggest taping up and making it more manageable.
-Ok, I first drilled out each corner with a pretty big bit so my cut off marks wouldn't be that big (Don't want rust to form + its ugly!) Then i used an air grinder with a somewhat small cutoff disk and began cutting away. Took about 15 mins per side as I didn't want to cut too much out!
-Now that I have my hole I wen't back through my loom and made sure I had my wiring that was going outside separate from the stuff that would stay inside. This part is really hit and miss, because depending on what and how you are running the wires it will vary immensely.
-Driver side I had the MAF, Headlight, Turn Signal, Poser, Radiator Fan, Horn, Hood Latch Cable(IKR?).
-Passanger Side I had the Headlight, Windshield Motor, Turn signal, Poser.
-I pulled everything through on each side that I had pre planned. Feed the plugs out first and pull slowly, be gentle not to damage any wires.
- HURAY your wires are now outside your car!

-- Wire Hole (Driver Side)

-- Passenger Side Pulled out and testing the length

Wire Tuck Stage 4! -- (Extending wires! and Routing, Passenger/Driver and Hood Latch!)
-Congrats on getting the wires out! Now depending on how you route your wires will determine what needs to be extended.
-As for the hood latch it ran parallel to all the other wires, then were the air bag module used to be I drilled a hole as CLOSE to the corner as possible all the way through the frame rail. Its a soft angle allowing it to still hook up and be tied up without causing a bind.
-I am running all my ENGINE wires through a pre made hole on my firewall that is about 70% Hidden by the intake manifold (Below marked by a black arrow)
-The Fenders will be home to the Posers/Blinkers/Headlight+Motor/Fans/MAF/Horn/Hood Latch
-After deciding my routes it broke down like this. All these are extends!
Passenger Side
Turn Signal
Washer Bottle (See Stage 5)
Headlight Motor

Driver Side
MAF (See Stage 6) *Ignore for Stand Alone ECU*
Turn Signal
Headlight Motor
Fan Motor
Hood Latch

-- Engine Bay Wire Hole!

-- Passenger Side FULLY loomed and perfect length for all wires!

-- Partial loom another angle Passenger Side!

-- Hood Latch Guide Hole

-- Driver Side brackets on awaiting for my lazy ass to loom them and attach them. --

-- Passenger Side brackets on, loomed and wires attached. --

Wire Tuck Stage 5! -- (Placing the Fuse Box and relocated Modules + Battery Wire Route/Washer Bottle Tube)
- This part is somewhat easy; there is not a whole lot of options to run your Fuse Box/Battery Terminal Hot back to the trunk. If you notice the white plastic guard near your door jam and the metal clips holding it in place. That's what you feed the wire into and towards the trunk. It will protect it from wear and keep it safe.
- I bolted my ignitor to the firewall just below the blower for the heater core.
- If you are running stand alone you can zip tie off your Vacuum Tester plug. If not find a threaded hole to bolt them to and run a close loop line to your Vacuum tester.
- I have yet to run the tube for my Washer Bottle; but it will run along side the door jam just like the battery wire.

-- Teaser Pic of my Fuse BOX relocation!

Wire Tuck! Stage 6 -- (Engine Wires! -- MAF,Coil Pack,CAS,O2,Tranny Plugs,EGR, Alternator, Starter, ECU Temp Sensor, Fan Temp Sensor, Gauge Cluster Temp Sensor)
- Try to feed the biggest plugs out first; then proceed with the smaller plugs. Only pull the wires you need into the engine bay. (EG. Stand alone ECU can leave the MAF wire inside and splice for the GM IAT inside the **** pit)
- The MAF will be ran through the driver side Air Bag Module hole at the top most near the fender well. Its easy to patch if I ever go stand alone.
**Wen't MSPNP so ran MAF wiring behind dash bar to the two wire GM IAT sensor out the hole for the main loom. **
- For the CAS it will run with the main loom out your designated hole with all the engine wires.(Alternator/Starter/etc)
- For the Coil Pack wire; it will run with the main loom. No special modification.
**I am running CoPs so my Coil Pack wire was ziptied up out of the way inside the **** pit. DO NOT CUT PLUGS OFF; live wires exposed is an issue.**
- The EGR plug will run with the main loom also; no special length modification needed. **I am running IRTB's so I have no use for the EGR it was zip tied to the main loom inside the **** pit with the Coil Pack wiring. DO NOT SNIP OFF PLUG**
- Alternator wiring will be ran with the main loom. No special modification needed.
- Starter wiring will be ran with the main loom. No special modification needed.
- ECU temp Sensor will be ran with the main loom. No special modification needed.
- Gauge Tempt Sensor will be ran with the main loom. No special modification needed.
- Fan Tempt sensor will be ran with the main loom; MAY NEED TO extend wire. If running stock location you can run it along side the injector wiring harnesses. ** Coolant Re-route People - It reaches but is somewhat short depending on your routing. **
**Stand Alone ECU - Zip tie it off somewhere in the **** pit. DO NOT SNIP PLUG. Adjust settings in Tuning software.**

- The Tranny Wiring; There is a small hole on the tranny tunnel passenger side for its 4 wires for the reverse and neutral safety switch. I suggest taping them all together and feeding them through. Keep the slack a minimum so they do not rub on the tranny.
-Aside from that no wires needed to be extended.

Engine Bay
- Was not required to extend any wires to reach the motor; everything was of perfect length. If a wire was too long; I just spooled it up and zip tied it to the main loom in the engine bay.
- The wiper motor wire would need to be extended to reach the corner given how its powered from the main loom. (making its individual length short)

- That should be all you need to finish looming.

253 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
Engine Bay Shave --
- This is to your own taste and what not. I wanted to create a semi smooth/uniform engine bay with all holes and major gaps filled.
- For starters I highly suggest having the motor out and a lot of patience plus planning.
- Most of the smaller holes can be welded shut and ground down while there is a few larger ones that will require filler metal.
- Reason I am not just COVERING them with Fiberglass Resin or Bondo is so it does not crack and ruin the paint job I plan to put over it. I cannot STRESS this enough, FILL the holes if you plan to cover them!
- Use a scrap miata Fender for the simple stuff, lighter the gauge the better, easier to get a hot weld to penetrate and not big welds. Not to mention you can cut them with tin snips to get really good matchs.
- Start off by marking all the holes you plan to fill (I am retaining my fender liners and Bumper/fender brace. So I was left with 4 holes on each side of the bay)
- Scuff them with either sand paper (180 or lower grit) or a grinder. I used a pistol grip grinder with 40 grit sanding disk on it.

- My major task was filing the arcs for the shock towers. I wanted to keep them rigid and not cut the angle braces, so I welded a 1/8th in steel plates inset on them to reinforce them along with make it smooth. I did it on both sides while not relocating my fuel lines since I am still running stock intake.(Pictures below)

- Next up on the firewall if you did a wire tuck you now have two BIG 2 7/8 in holes that need to be covered. Ebay does sell some plastic covers @ 3in and I believe with some more looking you can find some @ the correct diameter. The plastic will work just as good as metal giving the fiberglass a good BOND! (Make sure to scuff it)
I wen't with steel plates again (had some left over metal) cut them to size and will tack weld them from the bay with the plates to the inside of the car. I will then fill the hole with bondo, giving me a flush surface.
- Since I planned to rerun my cords through a different hole and one that was already pre cut in the firewall (As you can see in previous pictures with the black arrow).
- That left me with 8 holes to fill. 4 above the pinch weld firewall, and 4 below. I am retaining my Washer Motor and re-routed my fluid bottle into my trunk. If you are really good at welding you could do the holes with just a self feed, but I am not that confident and wanted a smooth finish guaranteed, so I made TINY cut out pieces of metal from a scrap fender. Two welds on each with good penetration (Burn hot) and sand smooth! (Picture soon)

-Now we move down to the frame rails and wheel wells. Most of the holes in the bay can be welded shut since you cannot see the backsides of the welds. On any hole bigger than a dime I put filler metal just so the weld wouldn't get too big and require a lot of grinding. (eg. Washer Bottle Hole, the two 1 3/8th holes on the passenger side above the shock tower, plug holes on the wheel wells)
- This should leave you with two Quarter sized holes just below your light bucket position, I chose to run all my cords through these holes so I did not weld them shut. What ever you decide make sure to get these two or leave them.
-After you have welded all the holes you wan't make sure to test all the welds with a hammer. You would rather them break now then 400 miles later and crack your paint job! Don't hit it too hard just enough to see if the weld actually fused to the metal.
-Now that all the welds are sure, get to grinding; be careful not to take off too much material or you will be going back over the welds with more. Remember you can HAND sand them smooth, grinding them is just to get the bulk!.
-When you have it to your liking you are ready for part 2! Enjoy!

-HUzzah! Your bay is now READY!
-Still learning how to weld, Plus I ran out of gas and didn't even really notice. =/

-- Example of all the holes I plan to fill! Scuffed and ready! --

-- Dry Fitting Driver Side --

-- Dry Fitting Passenger Side --

-- Driver Side Shock Tower Plate --

-- Passenger Side Shock Tower Plate --

Engine Bay Shave Part 2!! -- Bondo Placement Prep Job! / Painting!
- First scuff the whole bay and take a scotch bright over the whole bay so there is no smooth parts! The Bondo needs something rough to adhere too.
-Next mark all the holes you plan to cover with a marker of some sort (Permanent or Metal marker)
-Mix and lay your bondo, I was always taught to put more than enough. I would rather have too much than not enough.
-Scuff off all the resin and go to town with some 80 grit sand paper.
-Tap down any high spots you create/have add and fill bondo were needed. Repeat as necessary..
-Once to your liking, hit all spots with some 180 grit to remove sanding scratches and feather in the edges of the bondo.
-Double check everything!
-Take some scotch bright and go over ANY Shiny spots in the bay you plan to paint; paint cant adhere very well without a rough surface.
-Lay down your primer; one coat at first. Find your high spots and funky spots. Sand/Fill as needed.
-Re scotch the whole bay if you had to fill and let the primer sit.
-Pick a color and get to spraying! I want to see those bays!
Primered awaiting paint! ..

-- First stage of bondo. I wanted more "Smooth" lol

-- I went back and cut off the extra metal near the gas lines and also the bolt on the driver side for the intake box. So now they are flat.

-- Added some more to make the frame rails even and remove all the high spots.

-- Did the last bit of sanding, prep'd the bay for paint

-- The hole for the wires to pass through un noticed into the bay for the Lights/Radiator and Horn -- Same spot on both sides.

-- Primered awaiting paint --
The weapon for this project! --

-- Painted awaiting Clear + Pearl --
The Master Painter

-- Came out really nice, no runs no foul ups or funny spots. --

Heat Shielding Part 1!! -- Preping for Heat Shielding!
-FYI I had my whole interior gutted at the time of doing this and no engine/tranny. I also planned to leave the original FIREWALL shielding. I may pull it after I finish my bay, and just redo the whole bay with nice stuff.
-I bought a 30ft Roll of Reflective Wrap Heat Shielded from Lowes! And a 50yrd Roll of Reflective Wrap Tape! This is plenty to do the whole bay plus your doors if you really are anal! (Which I am...)
-Depending on how much you plan to cover and what area's will depend on what you need to remove.
-First out! Seats. 4 bolts two on front two on the rear just below the seats.
-Next up is the center console, shifter nob then two screws in the front just below the tombstone, one in the cup holder, then two in the latch door for your trunk/gas tank.
-Next is your door sills, 5 screws.
-Next is the tombstone, use some bailing wire or a hook to pull the vents out! (Be Gentle) Two screws up top behind the vents, two at the bottom on the brass bracket. Lean it forward and unplug your headlight switch/ Poser switch. Remove it slowly (Some people may need to remove there stereo face plate depending on how its all installed)
-Next is your stereo unit, reach behind it unplug it according to your installation, remove the 4 screws holding the unit into the dash. Gentle pull it out while reaching for your Antenna plug.
-Next is the heater unit (If you have one?) This one is somewhat tricky but also easy. Remove your glove blox, look at your heater core there is a black cord with a Circle at the end,slide it out of the C bracket then slide it off the latch on the heater core. Then look up from that one, there should be another black cord running to your blower, it may be held in place with a metal C bracket to the blower, unscrew that then remove the cord from the latch on the blower. Now switch to the driver side and look at the heater core, you may need to look through the tombstone below the unit to see the cord, pop the cord out of the C bracket and unhook the cord from the latch on the heater core. Now unscrew the heater Unit and pull it forward gently while unplugging the cords from behind it. There is two!
-Next is the DASH, 3 parts. Remove the Steering column cover two screws on the bottom. First up is the gauge bezel, removing this can cause it to break, so be gentle there is 3 tabs on it push them down till the pop then pull back level with your chest as if you where sitting in the seat. Now remove the Gauge Cluster 4 screws two on top two on the bottom, pull it out slowly while unplugging the wires on the left and right. Now push the pin on the Speedo Cable and let it slide out. Now to remove the dash is 9 bolts. All 9 bolts are behind plastic covers on the dash. Two near the driver door and then two near the driver tombstone. Two near the Passenger Door, two near the passenger tombstone. Then the last one is at the center of the dash. Now lean under the dash near the clutch pedal should be two plugs both are "Hooked" to the dash so unplug them, hop to the passenger side unplug the blower motor from the dash harness.
Now to pull the dash out, what works best IMO is to pull the bottom out a little bit and then lean the top part out , doing that back and forth till you will probably hit your e-brake. Then just lean it all the way back up and out. REMEMBER to do it slowly and check for cords

-Now we wan't to remove the carpet and all the crappy padding on the bottom of it and whatever is left attached to your floor boards.
-You shouldn't need to remove the heater core, but it may make the job easier? its 3 bolts if and then you can probably wiggle it up and let the carpet slide under it.
-The stuff on the floor boards left over will just rub right off with your hand. Don't forget to remove that back piece behind the seats if you plan to change that also. Its 6 Plastic Push pins.

-Congrats, you now have your carpet out! Wash the floor boards and vacuum up what debre you can see. Remove the floor plugs if you feel you may leave too much water in the area. After that is all done Dry it and now you are ready! Part 2!

Heat Shielding Part 2!! -- Layout and Taping off! Driver Passenger
-Decide what you wan't to cover and how you want it done. I also suggest since you have your carpet/dash out if you got hit with rust on your ECU Covering plates you may want to paint them? I shot mine with a flat black to help prevent further rust.
-I started on the passenger side since It had only the ECU in the way. lol
-The Wrap is quite large and will probably be a pain to situate correctly, I let the excess run up the side of my tranny tunnel (see Picture)
-I also wen't under the ECU to replace its old padding that was all EWW and full of rust.
-Start from the back of the car and work forward so you have a more room to work with the roll, what works best is to put an edge to the outside of the floor panel nearest to the door and let that be your guide. Get it flush and then SIT On it.. Yes. Sit on your floor board, push it into the corners so you get an idea of were all the binds are.
-Cut were needed so it lays as FLAT as possible (as pictured below) It will literally stay in place after you cut all the binds and push it down. Don't worry about the holes you covered, you can go back with an exacto knife and make an X on them all!
-Be light with the tape, because like I said it really DOESN'T move at all. I only taped on the tranny wall (Picture soon) since I would be covering the tranny wall I will have a 2x padding on a good portion of it. (I used to get really bad hot foot)
-Rinse and repeat for the driver side.

- Now for doing the firewall I have yet to get to that point -- I will post pictures of what and how I placed it sometime next week (When I tackle it)

Prep Job --

Rusty Covers --

ECU Covers nice and new! --

Reflective Wrap --

Passenger Side -- (Before taping)

253 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
Coming along nicely
Thanks, it feels like forever though!.. My goal is to have her road worthy by May 9th.

^^ Well that didn't happen..

Hijacking this reply to add another section for future plans and guides.

Heat Shielding Part 3!! -- Layout and Taping off! Firewall STYLE!
-Decide what you wan't to cover and how you want it done -- Remove your Pedal system and loosen your steering rack as much as possible. Also you need to remove all your Modules and pull the wiring harness back a little ways. (I had my booster and slave cylinder removed while doing this and my whole interior already gutted)
-I suggest painting your pedal system and any other little pieces so they don't rust any more. I HAAAAATE!!! Rust..
-Start from the passenger side if you have everything removed it is a lot easier.
-To cover the whole firewall it will take a piece that is 50in in length. Having it pre-cut made life simpler vs fighting the roll.
-The nice part about the firewall is the bolts that protrude, you can make tiny cuts and let the bolts poke through holding the wrap in place.
-Best way to make sure it doesn't run slanted is set it in the middle and make sure its square to the top of the firewall; then run it over to the passenger side; there will be some excess towards the top, but this will cover the WHOLE Firewall and even down to the floor boards. Poke the first hole to hold it in place, then make a cut for the brace just below it so the wrap lays flat; while moving down towards the ecu cover bolts and brackets make cuts for all those.
-Move to the left a little and you will have one more just before the tranny wall, make a small incision also make a cut for the tranny wall and the wire harness bracket on the tranny wall.
-Make a cut for the bolt in the center; keep moving left. Now your right above the steering column. I suggest you MEASURE from that CENTER bolt just above the firewall to your steering rack (Cant recall the Number) so you can make a cut all the way down so it slides over the steering rack. Then make two small incisions to the left and right of that line so the wrap sits flat. Cut away what is needed so you can get to the bolts around the rack. Now move to the left two more bolts; and the brace need incision marks.
-Just above the brace is one last bolt; make the cut and push the wrap over. Now if your wrap is tall enough it may even reach down to your Dead Pedal bolts, make the incisions for that. You will have the same problem on the ECU cover side if it reaches that far down.
-Congrats your Firewall is now WRAPPED!

Firewall Layout --

Driver Side Angle Tranny Tunnel --

Brake/Gas and Clutch Brackets painted! --

Clutch Override for Lazy Starts? YES!! --

Interior Work Part 1 -- Painting little nick nacks to prep for a clean interior.--
-I wen't ahead and planned on painting my dash bar. Took some 180 grit sand paper and a scotch brite to remove most of the hard rust and to scuff it for a clean paint.
-Next up will be routing my fan toggle switch for when the motor gets put in. The rest of the interior work is minute.
-Then fabing up a custom seat bracket for my Charge Speed Seat.

Dash Bar Painted! --

Charge Speed Seat sitting in place before it becomes its permanent home --

3,229 Posts
So where is your thermostat with that reroute? Of its against the head, you'll have a slight issue since no coolant will be flowing until the thermostat opens. Great for warm up times, not too great for the engine.

This is why we use spacers in the back to use for the heater core, or use a remote mount thermostat housing after a piece of pipe with all the sensors like yours.

253 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
So where is your thermostat with that reroute? Of its against the head, you'll have a slight issue since no coolant will be flowing until the thermostat opens. Great for warm up times, not too great for the engine.

This is why we use spacers in the back to use for the heater core, or use a remote mount thermostat housing after a piece of pipe with all the sensors like yours.
I see were your coming from, but its not much different than vs stock. That little bit of coolant that flowed through the heater core won't make that.
The car will not be daily driven, and my fans will be on a toggle switch most likely.
If for some reason she begins to run hot I can always pull the thermostat and relocate it at a later time. I still have yet to set the motor into the bay and see how everything sits. I may need to do some adjustments as is.

But thank you for that tid bit of information, I overlooked it since no one ever really mentioned having a problem with the thermostat in the rear.

this entire thread is totally insane. i love it.
Thanks, been busting my butt to finish this bad boy. My fingers are so raw.. lol

253 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 · (Edited)
*Hijacking Another Reply to reorganize Posts and Guides*

Motor Work Part 1 -- --** Updating to Using ITBs Rebuilding/Calibration **
-Redid the wire loom for the Fuel injectors, ECU Temp, Dash Temp, and CoP's Wiring. The rest of the loom is attached to the main car harness which will be re-loomed once the motor is in the car.
-Rebuilt the motor from the ground up. Re-balanced the Crank, Resurfaced the head, Valve Job. All new Gaskets and Rings from the top down.
-Thanks to "Curly" I stumbled upon some kewl new ideas. I will be removing the old neck housing and using the Kia Housing so I can develop a spacer to allocate my Thermostat better on the back of my block. (pics soon)

-- CoPs All reloomed and awaiting my custom wiring from the ignitor --

Motor rebuilt and awaiting a new bay to call home till I tear it apart for the ITB/rebuild once again. --

-- Coolant Re-route --

-- ITB Installation -- -- (Will fill in later TBD)

253 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 · (Edited)
*Update 5/11 * Managed to get the last few parts for the motor. Gates Timing belt + Alt Belt rebuilt the injectors new Throttle Body Gasket. Also redid my loom for my COPs and Fuel Injectors. Semi polished the intake, may do a little more in the coming week (Not really on my to do list.. lol)

** Consolidated all the Pictures to there rightful locations under each section **

Then this happened later today; I tell ya I am GLAD I do not cheat safety..

253 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Sorry for no updates. Welder still down; and the weather around here has been really crappy lately.

Plus bills made me take on two jobs. =/ But you do what ya gotta do.

I did manage to score some Drilled and Slotted Rotors from the Forums and then traded a Harness for a racing seat.
I still need to make custom rails for it though (again need a welder). Its a Charge Sprint Red on Black. Little bit of wear but I couldn't complain.

The ETA on the welder is Tuesday; so hopefully by the end of the week the weather will shape up and I can move forward.

Mostly Harmless
1,540 Posts
Subscribed. Nice project, there!

Surgeon General
2,924 Posts
Woah, this is cool stuff!

I'm surprised how good the motor looks in that color! On its own, I despise that color, but it actually works pretty well when its all assembled with the accent colors on the motor.

Followed you on IG as well, can't wait to see some more updates!

253 Posts
Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Subscribed. Nice project, there!
Woah, this is cool stuff!

I'm surprised how good the motor looks in that color! On its own, I despise that color, but it actually works pretty well when its all assembled with the accent colors on the motor.

Followed you on IG as well, can't wait to see some more updates!
Thanks. I was a little worried about the color also. So i tried to NOT over do it. I didn't want red, never been a big fan of that color. I wanted something light with barely any color. The pictures honestly do it no justice even for rattle can.

Also Thanks for the follows. I plan to do more updates once money starts rolling in, and weather pics up.

253 Posts
Discussion Starter · #20 · (Edited)
Been away again; but managed to get some LONG awaited things set up and running.

My work car had a bad o2 Sensor took me almost a month of trail and error off and on to figure it out. It wasn't throwing a CEL or happening often enough for me to pinpoint right away.

But aside from that welder came back about a week ago. We did some upgrading to the cart and holder for it. It will be fully operational tomorrow. Planning to weld on the brackets and finish the scuff and smoothing job of the bay. Should HOPEFULLY primer it that day if not Wednesday morning.

To do! -- Next up is making a bracket for my Charge Sprint seat and working on swapping out my brakes for a 1.8 conversion.

** Consolidated Pictures **
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