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1000% Jake
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4,565 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I just want to talk about endlinks. NA endlinks in particular, since the NB endlink vendors all seem to use pretty much the same design, which makes sense. I have an NA, and FM sways (likely going to Racing Beat in the front) and I need adjustable endlinks to remove preload but also to remove some of the play in the factory units.

Seems like the available options are:
Are there more out there? Other options to consider? Some people piece together their own with bits from McMaster-Carr, I'm not sure I want to go to the trouble, but it might tide me over until Flyin Miata or 949 actually get some endlinks in stock. If you're one of those people and have strong opinions, please don't ruin this thread. Thanks.

I'm leaning towards FM. Looks like the most durable and least likely to chatter. However, would love to hear what people's experiences have been with the various off the shelf options. I don't know if the rubber bushing in the FM unit would be noticeable vs a solid heim joint.

TIA
 

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Official Armchair Racer
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14,399 Posts
My only experience is with RB and Supermiata.

RB is utter junk. They'll drive you nuts trying to line them up since it's just an incredibly stiff urethane insert. You could not pay me to place those on my car.

Supermiata is probably the best value. Cheap, yet they don't look like a hardware store end link. They also come with spacers so you move the link closer or further out from the bar end. Worth waiting for IMO.
 

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Official Armchair Racer
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14,399 Posts
I would be patient and keep checking. They are the ones to get.
 

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634 Posts
To add a different perspective, I've had no problems with my RB end links, including installing/disconnecting them. I like how beefy they are in comparison to some of the other options (my old NA had a habit of breaking stock endlinks). My only complaint is that I can't adjust them short enough to get the sway bar completely parallel with the ground at sub 12" ride heights. Can anyone comment if other endlinks do a better job at this, and is it worth worrying about?
 

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1000% Jake
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4,565 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
To add a different perspective, I've had no problems with my RB end links, including installing/disconnecting them. I like how beefy they are in comparison to some of the other options (my old NA had a habit of breaking stock endlinks). My only complaint is that I can't adjust them short enough to get the sway bar completely parallel with the ground at sub 12" ride heights. Can anyone comment if other endlinks do a better job at this, and is it worth worrying about?
I feel like it would be possible to cut more threads on the stud and cut it shorter. This is good information though... Goodwin claims 5mm more adjustment range on their endlinks. I don't know how that compares to vendors other than Racing Beat.

Do you have a bar that has multiple attachment holes? Range of motion of the endlink seems to be a bigger issue trying to reach some of the stiffer settings on the bar.
 

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I use Cobalt end links. I think originally because they were less expensive. Haven't thought about them once since installed. I have asked my alignment shop to check and adjust if needed every time I go.
 

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I feel like it would be possible to cut more threads on the stud and cut it shorter. This is good information though... Goodwin claims 5mm more adjustment range on their endlinks. I don't know how that compares to vendors other than Racing Beat.

Do you have a bar that has multiple attachment holes? Range of motion of the endlink seems to be a bigger issue trying to reach some of the stiffer settings on the bar.
I do not. 1.125 Hollow RB with no adjustments.
 

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First Things First I'm The Realist
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8,650 Posts
My buddy just picked up some R theory. They seem really beefy and well made. The only thing I questioned is they came with nylock nuts. I'll report back after he puts some miles on them and they get good and dirty.
 

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Google me.
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164 Posts
I much prefer the sealed OE style used on many cars. Reliabie and easy to adjust. On the car many hard years now, silent, CW/CCW threads still fine. Only hassle was the original fit/adapt steps. Shortened the length for instance for best Miata characteristics. The more conventional aftermarket style shown for comparison corroded and got some clickety-click slop in the balls. So four sources of noise eliminated by going as I did. Eventual slop and noise vanquished.

 

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The colder Adam
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2,196 Posts
I really like those Saferacer links. That would be nice for my rear as I have a RSB for street and track but unhook it for autocross. Would be slightly easier than a wrench, just not enough to justify the cost/effort of selling /wapping for my old style FM links currently installed.
 

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No complain of 949's endlinks either. Being exposed however they do get dirty pretty quick compared to sealed ones and probably aren't the best for harsh environments. I tend to hit mine with some wd-40 to wash them off whenever the car is off the ground - seems to keep them moving freely.
 

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Google me.
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164 Posts
I really like those Saferacer links. That would be nice for my rear as I have a RSB for street and track but unhook it for autocross. Would be slightly easier than a wrench, just not enough to justify the cost/effort of selling /wapping for my old style FM links currently installed.
Usually cotter pinned links have a rattle. A big deal for some, nonissue for others.

If you want to deactivate the rear bar with bolted links, you can remove the bolt on one link end while laying on the ground. Ziptie it out of the way. Just need level ground and not any large preload.
 

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1000% Jake
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4,565 Posts
Discussion Starter #19
I much prefer the sealed OE style used on many cars. Reliabie and easy to adjust. On the car many hard years now, silent, CW/CCW threads still fine. Only hassle was the original fit/adapt steps. Shortened the length for instance for best Miata characteristics. The more conventional aftermarket style shown for comparison corroded and got some clickety-click slop in the balls. So four sources of noise eliminated by going as I did. Eventual slop and noise vanquished.

These look like NB endlinks?

FM's endlink has one ball joint, at the sway bar end of the link. This is definitely an improvement over stock, and in terms of longevity would have to be an improvement over the typical heim joints on most/all of these.

I'm more interested in performance, and my car doesn't really see rain or salt, but for those daily driving in the winter in the rust belt, this is a big deal.
 

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362 Posts
I've been looking into suspension work on my car, and saw this thread
I've been tossing around the idea of DIY endlinks like the 949 ones

i.e.
4 of these


2 of these


various nuts and bolts, those funky curved washer looking things

BOOM



THere's probably some dumb little thing that makes it not that simple, like I've learned on my short stint with working on cars
 
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