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First Things First I'm The Realist
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8,406 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Shocks: Koni Yellows
Springs: GC sleeves with 550/350
Ride height: 4.75" to pinch in front 5" in rear
Tires: Hankook Ventus RS3 225/45 on 15x8 Konig flatouts
Sways and stuff: RB big front and stock rear. Garage Star frame rails and fender braces.
Power: Stock with RB intake, header, and exhaust. I need to bump my timing.
Goals: Almost competitive autocross and occasional track day. NOT my daily driver.

The 949 dual duty makes sense because I drive to and from events. That will likely be on my S-Drives though so it won't eat up expensive tires if I go super aggressive... My ride height is a little tall for the race alignment though. But I could use a little camber on those +25s to keep from having to pull fenders.

Should I pick one or make my own somewhere in the middle? HALP!

949 specs said:
SuperMiata Dual Duty Alignment (cars that see regular street use and some track/autocross)

In general, the Dual Duty alignment is intended for cars that will occasionally reach the limits of traction and slide the tires but don't want to give up too much tire wear for daily driving.

>=12" front ride height (measured hub center to fender)

>=4.75" front pinch weld height

Front camber: -2° (or as close as you can get to it)
Caster: >4°
Front total toe: 0

Rear camber : -1.7°
Rear total toe: 0 for track use. + 1/8" for autocross

SuperMiata Race Alignment

The Race Alignment is intended to win national championships. YRMV
Best suited for high grip tires such as Hoosier DOT, Toyo RR, etc

<=12.0"

3.75~ 4.5" front pinch weld height. Xida's tend to work best for competition use with front pinch weld height close to 4.2".

Front camber: -3.5° (or as close as you can get to it)
Caster: >+4.5° or max available once you reach camber targets
Front total toe: 0

Rear camber : -3.0°
Rear total toe: +1/16~1/8"
Since everyone likes pics... this is the slut in question. Build thread in sig.

 

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See You Next Tuesday!
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2,188 Posts
Race alignment?
I've had zero issues with tire wear... from what I recall it's toe that causes funky wear, not camber.
It works well with street tires (Direzza ZIIs/RE-11s/Rivals) and track tires (SM7s).
 

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First Things First I'm The Realist
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8,406 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Toe eats up the tires bad, too much camber causes wear in the insides if you're not constantly near the limit.

Are you running the 949 race numbers? Happy with it? I'm a little nervous at my... Conservative height.
 

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Registered
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11,684 Posts
I've run front camber bias since 2005. It still amazes me that m.net spreads the rear camber bias gospel.

Toe wears tires way way faster than camber does. And realize that when your suspension compresses, you get a bit of toe out. Zero toe becomes toe out really quick.

The tiniest bit of toe in (like 1/16) will give you a less nervous ride on the freeway but not really change the nature of the car while killing cones or on the track.
 

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Super Moderator
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6,457 Posts
Toe eats up the tires bad, too much camber causes wear in the insides if you're not constantly near the limit.

Are you running the 949 race numbers? Happy with it? I'm a little nervous at my... Conservative height.
Nial is looking for ALLLLLL the camber he can get IIRC. The more camber he goes with, the happier he is.
 

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826 Posts
I run -3.3 degrees camber front and -2.7 in the back and usually get 1.5-2 years out of a set of cheap street tires. Get the toe at zero and you shouldnt have anything to really worry about on a car that isnt daily driven.
 

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Like an oven.
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1,513 Posts
I wouldn't worry about excessive tire wear from too much camber on a miata. The car is very light and as was mentioned earlier, toe is really what does the damage. Too much toe in either direction (in or out) is bad. It causes the tread to grind/scrub/slide instead of just rolling.
 

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First Things First I'm The Realist
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8,406 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
Dropping the car off tonight to be aligned tomorrow. Pretty sure I'm going to ask for...

Front Camber: -2.8*
Front Caster: >4*

Rear Camber: -2.4*
Rear toe: 1/32-1/16" in

Also having my RS3s mounted. Should be rolling my fenders tonight... or maybe Saturday if I work too late.
 

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Mufasa in Training
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32,094 Posts
Dropping the car off tonight to be aligned tomorrow. Pretty sure I'm going to ask for...

Front Camber: -2.8*
Front Caster: >4*

Rear Camber: -2.4*
Rear toe: 1/32-1/16" in

Also having my RS3s mounted. Should be rolling my fenders tonight... or maybe Saturday if I work too late.
Looks good to me.
 

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Official Armchair Racer
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14,399 Posts
This! When I suggested it on our local facebook group I got blamed for spreading dangerous information :smile1:
There's an old codger that trolls the M.net suspension forum like its his day job spreading ass backwards data. He basically lives his life inside a spreadsheet and I'm not entirely convinced he's ever turned a Miata wheel in anger.
 

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Mufasa in Training
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32,094 Posts
There's an old codger that trolls the M.net suspension forum like its his day job spreading ass backwards data. He basically lives his life inside a spreadsheet and I'm not entirely convinced he's ever turned a Miata wheel in anger.
Whozzat?
 

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My toilet water goes the other way.
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2,313 Posts
My miata track set up was -2.9 front -2.2 front.
Was quiet nice.

The 350z was running -3.3 front and -2.7 rear with -0.15 front toe.
Handled incredibly well!
 

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First Things First I'm The Realist
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8,406 Posts
Discussion Starter #19
I'll let you guys know how it feels. Car is dropped off with my above numbers left behind. Can't run the new tires until probably Saturday because that's when I'll have a chance to roll fenders. Maybe tomorrow but I doubt I'll be home in time.
 
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