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copy pasted from an aim convo, sorry if it's difficult to follow....

Mechanische Maus (10:13:15 PM): noticed HLA noise- no oil pressure on start ups- 2 secs later, oil pressure builds, noise goes away...ok... drove the car to the grocery store from work, when i got back in my car it did it again...got out, checked the dipstick, no oil!!!!!!!!

Mechanische Maus (10:14:58 PM): -went to the gas station on foot (after checking the dipstick 5 times), bought three quarts of oil, put the first quart in, and checked the dipstick. It was almost full from one quart! ....?!?!?! -car was fine after that...doesnt make sense :/ i drove for maybe 25 miles. i hope i didnt damage anything



^so anyways- thats my wtf story....do miatas have oil lamps??

+all the oil i lost was royal purple #-o
 

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If you change your oil every 3000miles, you don't need synthetics. Synthetics allow you to run longer between oil changes because the additives take longer to break down, that's it. Royal Purple and other "race" oils are used in race engines that are almost always at WOT and bouncing off the redline, wearing down the oil faster, they also change the oil after every race. Don't waste your money. A lot of people swear by synthetics, good for them. Not worth the lightened wallet IMO.

Think of the HLA click-clack as an idiot light, telling you it's time to add oil. If the motor was broken in and has seen dino-oil it's whole life, there's a good chance your Royal synthetic never had a chance to stay in the engine due to old/worn gaskets. Ever notice you get more oil spots on the driveway after you switched to full synthetic?

It's all about the consistency of your oil maintenance.
 

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^^^ agreed, I wouldnt use full synthetic, I did that for a lil while and had mad oil leaks, just use regular oil and change frequently

btw this is my 1000th post Im officially a baller, or I have no life :lol:
 

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I use synthetic because I usually go 4 - 4500 between oil changes in both my cars.
 

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when you oil change play with oil weights. at least from reading on .net, different miatas like different oils.

with 5w30 mine would start to hla clatter at startup all the time and heavily around 2500 miles on the oil.

switching to 10w40 eliminated all hla clatter up to 3000 miles, and only then I would get clatter for a few seconds at startup, or clatter for a few minutes after a hot start.

I use castrol syntec, because I am not religous about my oil change intervals.
 

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I use mobil1 and change every 2500-3500 depending on what I did/how much I drove hard

I started using synth only on the first oil change after I got the car. I did my flush +synth for the first 3 changes and havent had the startup tick since. To me its worth it. and really on a miata its only like 4$ more...

and I dont know what other people say, but I think turbo cars *need* synth to compensate for the turbo heat breaking the oil down
 

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I'll try 10w40 next time, my lifters are loud as hell.
 

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ive been running 5w30 full synth since the car was using that when i got it, i've been thinking about going to 10w40 synth though.


wish i could go back to dyno oil =(
 

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AFAIK no Miata ever came with a specific low oil level telltale (indicator lamp) for the instrument panel. You get a oil pressure gauge (either the good one or the crappy electronically over-damped one). The MIL (malfunction indicator light aka check engine light) may or may not illuminate if you have low engine oil. I'm not familiar with the later cars but what I can see looking through the service manuals in front of me the MIL will not illuminate based on low engine oil level alone. However, if the car starts to run poorly or runs excessively hot it the MIL will likely illuminate.

It's not a bad idea to check your engine oil level at every fill up. If you switch to every other fill up you might not remember to do it as often as you probably should. I tried running synthetic oil in my car and it really liked it as evidenced by it's thirst for drinking oil. I had to add a quart every 1500 miles so I switched back to regular dino oil (Castrol GTX) and everything went back to normal.
 

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Here is a good one, i own a 2002 1.8l VVT engined miata, unplug the connector on the oil pressure switch & start the engine.

Guess what? the guage will show normal operating pressure. It's ass backwards if you ask me, & was pretty dismayed by this system.

There are a whole bunch of options available to install a low pressure warning system, as well as a murphy switch setup which will shut off the engine in the event that no oil pressure is detected.

I chose to go for a system that monitored everything, has configurable alarms and includes an accelerometer & a datalogger.

www.aimsports.com
 
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