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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
So, the background story for this car and build starts about August 2012. I'll cover what's been done up to this point then go from there. I have a build thread on my other car and thought it would be nice to have one for the Miata as well.

Anyways, I had been tracking my then daily driver 2005 RX-8 for about a year, and my Dad came out to the track a couple times to hang out. Miatas are of course very popular out here at NASA AZ and he got a ride along in the same car I got my very first ride along in as well, my friends 1994 Miata. After talking to some other people about cars and costs and other questions, he found that the answer was always Miata, so the search began to find a Miata project that we could both work on and drive. This is my "Plan B" car for when I'm unable to drive my RX-8 and is my dad's dedicated track car. The RX-8 is undergoing a massive rebuild right now and has its own build thread which can be found at the link below if anyone is interested.

Arca's RX-8 Time Attack Build Thread (FD RX-7 13b-REW Single Turbo Swap)

So our search for a suitable car started. Our budget was about $3000 and the important things on our list was 1994 or 1995 so we had OBD1 with a 1.8L, and it had to have an LSD in it already. We had a couple cars sold out from under us before we could even show up to look at it.

The first car we actually got to see was a '95 M edition, and the guy swore up and down that it just needed a battery and it would work fine... we hooked it up to jumper cables from our F150 and it would crank and crank and not fire, pulled the plugs and did a compression test right there (guy wasn't expecting that), cylinder 1 had a ton of oil, 140PSI, then the rest of the cylinders were less than 50PSI. 150 mile round trip that was a total waste of time and even with a blown motor and trashed interior he still wouldn't budge from $2500 asking price so we told him to kick rocks. Then I reported that it had a blown motor on the Carfax because **** that guy.

After browsing Craigslist for awhile and not seeing anything we liked, my buddy (the one that gave my dad a ride along in his Miata) sent me a link at about 8:30PM. A 1994 that was perfect for what we needed... $3500 asking price, figured maybe we could talk him down a bit. The ad had only been up for about 45 minutes so far, and I was sick of people beating us to cars, so I called the guy anyways at 8:45PM on a Monday. He said he already had two people coming over to look at it the next morning, so I asked him what his crossroads were, and he was only 3 miles from my place. I asked if I could look at it tonight and he said that was cool. Grabbed my dad and jetted over there to check it out, and it was better than we could have ever thought.

It was a 1994 R-Package with 103k miles on the clock, kept mostly in Colorado driven by the guys mom, only during summers (no rust) and it was even serviced by Flyin' Miata regularly. Not even a hint of lifter tick, no accidents and it drove awesome on the test drive. The only thing not stock were the shocks (no "R" bilsteins) but they were getting replaced anyways. While we were there, his phone was ringing off the hook with people offering almost $1000 over asking price, but we were lucky he was a stand up guy and fellow car enthusiast and he said if we wanted it for the $3500 full asking price, it was ours. We agreed and we were back the next day with cash and took it home. That's where the fun starts.


June 25, 2012:
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Re: Project "Plan B" (Track Build)

So first thing's first... I'm 6'5" and my Dad is 6'2"... the first and biggest challenge is making it so we can fit in the damn car. We came to the conclusion that a bolt in roll bar was not going to work for what we need (the seats can't go far enough back) and that we need to have an aluminum seat bolted straight to the floor.

After doing some research we purchased two seats from Ultrashield. All the Kirkey seats I have sat in I hated, so we kind of took a gamble. On the website, they say you only need one measurement to buy a seat... you sit on a bench, put two boards down the sides of your hips, stand up, and measure the distance between the two boards. Luckily for both my dad and I, the measurement was 17", so that was the size seats we ordered, and we lucked out because they fit awesome and are super comfortable on track.

Drivers Seat: Ultrashield VS Halo 17"
Passenger Seat: Ultrashield Spec Miata 17"

The drivers seat I like a lot, holds you in very well. Also since it is technically a circle track seat, they made the driver side Halo piece shorter than the other side, which works out well because it doesn't hinder entry/exit at all.
The passenger seat we were just looking for the lightest solution possible.

My buddy Stenos ("Noz") sitting in what would essentially be the seating position. This is the same guy that I mentioned earlier that gave a ride along to my dad and played a large role in us choosing a Miata. He helped out a TON with working on the car and it is definitely nice to have someone who knows what does and doesn't work on a track car. It's nice to avoid wasting time with trial and error type modifications and car setups and be able to just go with stuff that works well right off the bat.



Testing the position for the drivers seat.



Got some harnesses from Crow Enterprizes. The purple ones are for the RX-8, blue is for the Miata. They are 6 point camlock with pull up lap belts, all 3" with sewn in shoulder pads. If you don't have a head and neck restraint, the shoulder pads are awesome. Great price on these as well, and they offer a recertification service that you can use when they expire, it's only like 60 bucks to send them in and they replace all the webbing so you're good to go for tech inspection.



While we were stripping out the interior we also removed the sound deadening with dry ice. It took about 10 minutes total... just crush up dry ice into powder/tiny pieces, spread evenly, wait until you start to hear it cracking then it just lifts off with a putty knife.

 

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Discussion Starter #3
Re: Project "Plan B" (Track Build)

So after the seats went in, it was time for the rollbar. The seats are just bolted to the floor, took a little encouragement with a BFH for the trans tunnel to move over a little so the drivers side would sit flat. Also shot them with some gloss white Rustoleum.

The car got dropped off at Fathead Fabrications and I told him exactly what I wanted. It is a 6 point that is legal for NASA Time Trials. The two door bars attach near the base of the main hoop and land where a normal full cage would. We were considering a full cage but given how tight on space it is in there, this was a good option.

All done:






Another thing we were in search of is a hard top. They are stupid expensive on Craigslist most of the time around here. Like $1000. My dad was on Craigslist one day and spotted a Red '91 Miata for $1500 and it happened to have a non-defrost OEM hard top on it. We went to go check it out immediately to see why it was so cheap. It was an automatic and the owners said that they thought the transmission was blown and that's why it was so cheap. They said it would seem to slip and not want to shift and all sorts of stuff. While my dad was talking to them I pulled the dipstick for the trans fluid while it was running, and it was bone dry... I walked over and handed them $1500 and said we'll take it.

Took it home, filled up the trans fluid and it worked perfectly. So we took the hard top off, painted it white, put it on our car, and then sold the '91 Automatic for the same price we bought it for 3 days later, and let the new owner know to watch the trans fluid level. Free hard top, **** yeah.

The '91 Automatic:



Hard top rattle canned and put on, also got new license plate in the mail.

 

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Re: Project "Plan B" (Track Build)

awesome story haha. craigslist is always a gamble no matter what you use it for.

looking forward to reading more!
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Re: Project "Plan B" (Track Build)

awesome story haha. craigslist is always a gamble no matter what you use it for.

looking forward to reading more!
Yeah it's always hit or miss.

Thanks man!
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Re: Project "Plan B" (Track Build)

Next step of the equation, weight reduction and some creature comforts.

So list of weight reduction as of today:
Removed interior
Removed A/C
Removed side windows
Removed Charcoal Canister and EGR System
Removed Headlight assemblies
Removed airbags, sensors, module
Gutted Doors
Gutted Rear Deck
Sound Deadening removed
Cut out some brackets from trunk
Removed brackets under the hood for fuse boxes etc.


Here's the gutted doors, left the door bars in for extra side impact protection. You can also see here that we rattle canned the cage blue, you'll be able to see it in future pictures.
We were able to take out nearly 80lbs of weight between all the metal and glass in the doors... one of the best things we ever did for weight reduction. You can even go a step further than we did and get 1.6L door skins, they are lighter than the 1.8L. My buddy did this but we didn't bother.



Then painted them white and covered sharp edges with some trim (trim not pictured).



One other thing is that when we bought it there was an extra valve cover in the trunk. We painted it white to put on later. Also installed a Samco Silicone Hose kit and the Ancillary line kit in blue.



Also had to do something about the steering wheel because it was too large and in a bad spot. Also I needed a quick release to be able to get in and out quickly, my dad didn't seem to mind a fixed steering wheel though.

Ordered up:
Momo Hub Adapter #5702
Momo Mod.78 Steering Wheel (330mm Leather)
NRG Gen 2.0 Quick Release (Black/Charcoal)






Now, out of all the parts that I've gotten for this car I've only REALLY regretted one part. And that is the Ralco RZ short shifter. What a nightmare. It seemed like a good deal, but once we got it (it includes no instructions whatsoever by the way), it really seemed like someone drafted this on a computer without ever actually trying to install it on the car. I won't really get into it that much but holy hell, it took an entire day of grinding, test fitting, grinding some more, and custom making a few parts in order to even get it to drop in the turret. After that it worked great for awhile but now it is getting shitty. The shifter shaft can rotate about 20 degrees either way because it only uses one locating pin and it must be reaming out the plastic slot on the shifter ball.

I did, however, like the cheapo Sickspeed 2.5" shifter extender and the VooDoo Piano Black weighted shift knob. Those are nice pieces.

DO NOT BUY THIS:




Also the rest of the interior tub was painted gloss white, and the rear deck and trunk was painted matte black with the hope that it would reduce glare in the back window. Worked out pretty well.

Here are some very recent interior shots.



 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
Re: Project "Plan B" (Track Build)

Alright, so, prep for the cars first track event. The event was October 27/28 of 2012, so we had been working on the car for about 4 months. This was right after I decided to put the RX-8 aside for a rebuild, so I would be driving the car in NASA Time Trials and my Dad would be doing his first event ever in HPDE1.

So we had ordered the Flyin' Miata Track Package which includes their Vmaxx Track Pack Adjustable coilovers and their front and rear sway bars.



The coilovers were on backorder, we thought they would arrive in time but they got delayed. We got the sway bars in before the event along with some 949 Racing Endlinks, but our shocks were blown.



My buddy Noz came to the rescue and let us borrow his old suspension setup which was the Flyin' Miata Stage 1 with Tokico adjustables and lowering springs.

Being that my Dad was just getting into doing track days I decided to start with some good street tires.

225/45R15 Hankook RS-3's. These things are awesome for a street tire, but they like a LOT of camber. Unfortunately we were maxed on camber so outer edge wear was a problem and we had to flip them a couple times throughout their life.

Just in case anyone is wondering, those are 275/40R17 NT01's for my RX-8 in the background.



And of course some 15x8 6UL Gen 3's in black. I know the tread is backwards I just threw some on for a picture.



We also threw on some Hawk HP+ Brake Pads for starters and some cheapo blank rotors from O'Reilly's and bled the brakes with some ATE Super Blue.


Other tune up items we did before the event were:
NGK OE Spec Copper Plugs
NGK Spark Plug Wires
Amsoil 75w-90 GL4 Trans Fluid
Amsoil 75w-90 GL5 Rear Diff Fluid
Rotella T6 5w-40 Oil
Wix Oil Filter






The first event at Firebird Main Course went awesome. HOLY HELL was this car fun to drive. The suspension was too soft but it was still awesome, I couldn't wait to get some coilovers on it. It felt like driving a go kart and I loved the feel of not having power steering. The car ran flawlessly the whole time and I was pumped to do a few more mods then just drive the crap out of it for awhile and really work on that driver mod.

My Dad was hooked after his very first session on track. He did really well and advanced quickly. By the end of the weekend he was already all the way to HPDE3... I think his previous experience racing pro BMX when he was younger helped him out here.

Good times.

Here is a picture with my buddy after the first day of track goodness at a gas station. His car is on the right. You can see where we were going with the stickers and would soon be confusing almost everyone at the track... this was the start of the twin Miaters. :icon_cheers:



Some more stickers went on and here are some photos from the second day.

My dad getting some seat time in HPDE3:





Me, just decided to throw the car in TT-D for that day:



My buddy Noz two wheeling:



Me two wheeling:



Twin Miaters!

 

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Re: Project "Plan B" (Track Build)

Nice pics! I've only done Main on 2 wheels, and I hated it. Shitty track. Well, maybe not the front straight... 171mph at the ped bridge... :D

Good looking build, and VERY lucky find!
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Re: Project "Plan B" (Track Build)

Here for the gang bang!
Aww yissssssss.

Nice pics! I've only done Main on 2 wheels, and I hated it. Shitty track. Well, maybe not the front straight... 171mph at the ped bridge... :D

Good looking build, and VERY lucky find!
Main is my favorite out of the three tracks there. I dunno but "scary" tracks with either sketchy high speed sweepers or really close walls are always my favorite, gets the adrenaline going.


Here's a video of an HPDE3/4 combined session at that very first event that Noz and I were messing around in. The view is from Noz's car, you can see me at about 2:25 ish. We both had passengers but at that time his car was about 200lbs lighter and had 20RWHP more than me. Yes I'm flat out on the straight LOL... because that is how I drive.

Also, for some reason youtube fucked up the video just recently, it used to be not stretched...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AuRvWxOoBxw?t=2m25s
 

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Re: Project "Plan B" (Track Build)

Aww yissssssss.

sketchy high speed sweepers...
Good description of turn 1 at Main... between the bumps and all the crap dropped by the drag cars. Probably not as bad in a car, but on a bike it's definitely sketchy!
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Re: Project "Plan B" (Track Build)

Good description of turn 1 at Main... between the bumps and all the crap dropped by the drag cars. Probably not as bad in a car, but on a bike it's definitely sketchy!
Eh, T1 at main is just scrubbing a lot of speed. There's an alternate line you can take that makes it much easier to deal with. Compared to some other tracks that corner is pretty slow. At places like Inde Motorsports Ranch and Chuckwalla Valley Raceway, there are some corners that I can take flat out, no brakes, in 4th gear. When I get to that point in the build I have some better video. :icon_cheers:
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Re: Project "Plan B" (Track Build)

Alright, so we made it through the first track weekend and everything was working awesome. The timeline is now at December 2012.

Time for some more mods and to start adding a little power.

We did a baseline dyno run at Evolution Motorsports, I was working there at the time so was fortunate enough to use the dyno for free for a couple different nights spent testing stuff.

All the car had was a Roadstersport 2.5" test pipe and was at 14* timing and that's it.



It made 100RWHP and 94RWTQ.



Using some parts laying around at work, I pieced together some stuff to make an intake that was housed where the left headlight used to be, and my dad built a plexiglass airbox to seal it off from the engine bay. It draws air in through the turn signal duct. Dat ram air yo.

Trying to figure out placement.



I cut the little accordion looking section, rotated it 180 degrees and use a small piece of exhaust pipe the same size as the tubing and this is how it turned out. Not bad.



Building plexi glass box.



And then this is the final version. You can see that at the shop my friend Dan helped me out a bit with a 90 degree silicone coupler and a different filter setup. I'll explain why we did this for the next picture.



So. I tested two different intake variations. One with the normal blue filter just put straight onto the MAF, and the other is a velocity stack from one of the Evolution Motorsports intake kits and one of their filters. On the graph you can see the baseline of 100WHP, then the blue regular filter was 107WHP, and then changing to the velocity stack and red filter gained 2WHP almost everywhere on the curve for a total of 109WHP with just the intake, 2.5" test pipe, and 14* timing.

The peak torque shifted down a bit on the RPM's but I was very happy with solid gains everywhere, and it only cost me about 40 bucks in supplies.

Another thing to mention is that I tried two different crossover tubes, one with the helmholtz resonator and one without, all it did was make the 2000-4000RPM range more wavy with the resonator, and without it the line split through the wavy section meaning there was no difference in torque or power at all. Did three pulls each on each tube to verify. All within 1WHP of each other for the entire graph.



Also I painted the heatshield white with some super high temp paint... it lasted two events before it started to get yellow then did matte black header paint later...

 

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Discussion Starter #14
Re: Project "Plan B" (Track Build)

One thing I noticed at the track day is that I was forced to shuffle steer in one of the very tight corners. I hate shuffle steering, I don't ever like to let go of the wheel when I'm on track.

The problem is that the manual rack in the R Package is much slower than a normal power steering rack. So we picked up a power steering rack for 40 bucks, looped the lines and stuck it in. Good to go. I thought about doing the full FM depower but it's already easy enough to steer that I'm not going to bother. The only time it is excessively heavy is when the car is moving less than 5MPH.

Then, got the coilovers in.

FM Vmaxx Xxtreme Track Pack (9k/6k springs).



Also shortly after the coilovers we did Energy Suspension Poly suspension bushings all around, as well as poly diff bushings. Really liked this mod, everything just feels tighter and more precise. Can feel the road a lot better.



Getting the car corner balanced and aligned by my friend Robert. At the time he was the service department manager at Evolution Motorsports, where I worked. He used to do setup and data acquisition for many race teams including Indy car and different road course series, he knows his ****. Turned out awesome. 50/50 crossweights with me in it, and 50/50 front to rear... also I went with the 949 Racing track alignment.

Car weighed in at 2150 without me in it and at a half a tank of gas, we were still working on weight reduction, like I said about our "weight reduction list" earlier, it happened over time. Weren't quite finished yet.



 

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Discussion Starter #15
Re: Project "Plan B" (Track Build)

So after the alignment and corner balance and getting everything sorted, we decided to just drive the crap out of it for awhile and learn the car before doing much else.

Also if I hadn't mentioned it before, I found a killer deal from a local guy selling a brand new set of Goodridge stainless braided brake lines. Awesome upgrade for any track car.

Here's the list of mods up to this point, which is late January 2013.

Weight Reduction:
Removed interior
Removed A/C
Removed side windows
Removed Headlight assemblies
Removed airbags, sensors, module.
Gutted Doors
Gutted Rear Deck
Sound Deadening removed
Other misc. stuff removed.

Engine/Intake/Exhaust:
Custom made cold air intake with velocity stack
Roadstersport 2.5" test pipe
NGK Copper Plugs
NGK Blue Plug Wires
Rotella T6 5w-40 Synthetic Diesel Oil

Drivetrain:
Ralco RZ Short Shifter (Do not buy this... took a lot of fab work to get it to work and it's starting to get sloppy.)
Sickspeed 2" Shifter Extender
VooDoo Piano Black 2" Weighted Shift Knob
AmsOil 75w-90 GL4 Trans Fluid
AmsOil 75w-90 GL5 Rear Diff Fluid

Cooling:
Samco Blue Silicone Radiator and Ancillary Hose Kit
Secondary Radiator Fan Removed

Suspension/Brakes/Wheels/Chassis:
Replaced stock manual steering rack with de-powered power steering rack (quicker ratio)
Flyin Miata VMaxx Track Pack Coilovers
Flyin Miata Front and Rear Sway Bars
949 Racing SuperMiata Adjustable Endlinks
Energy Suspension Poly Control Arm Bushings Front and Rear
Energy Suspension Poly Diff Bushings
Hawk HP+ Pads
Cheapo O'Reilly's Rotors
949 Racing 6UL Wheels 15x8"
6 Point Custom Roll Bar by Fathead Fabrications
GoodRidge Stainless Braided Brake Lines

Interior/Exterior/Electronics:
OEM Mazda Non-Defroster Hard Top
Ultrashield VS Halo Aluminum Seat 17" (Driver)
Ultrashield Spec Miata Aluminum Seat 17" (Passenger)
Crow Enterprizes 6 Point Harnesses (Blue)
Small Fire Extinguisher
Painted Interior White
Painted Seats White
Painted Rear Deck Area/Trunk Matte Black
Painted Roll Bar Blue
Momo Hub Adapter
NRG Gen 2.0 Quick Release (Black)
Momo Mod.78 Leather Steering Wheel (Flat, 330mm)
Radiator Protective Mesh Mounted Inside Bumper
Driving Lights Mounted In Bumper Opening


The only thing on here that I didn't mention was the radiator protective grille and the driving lights. The lights are just some cheapo square lights from O'Reilly that I mounted in the bumper opening for driving on the street at night. They are technically too low I think but I haven't gotten pulled over yet. You can see them in various track pictures of the car, usually turned sideways to avoid rock damage on the track.

The radiator grill is mounted where the A/C condenser would normally go to guard against rock damage.


So we hit the track!

Here are some different photos from around that time. Might not quite line up with the timeline in the thread but oh well.


Cruising to P1 Kart Circuit a.k.a. Musselman Honda Circuit on the southern outskirts of Tucson. They have fun little open track days on a super small and technical course. It's like autocross speed on a road course type track, kind of like a stepping stone if I had to compare it to autox and road course driving.

Remember mine is 883 haha.





Light speed flyby:








Getting some seat time at P1/Musselman:



My dad:



This is at Chuckwalla Valley Raceway in Desert Center, CA near Blythe. My dad is driving in all of these.





 

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Discussion Starter #16 (Edited)
Re: Project "Plan B" (Track Build)

My dad was having trouble with heel toe downshifting. We thought of making a simple pedal extension, but after seeing another competitor eat a tire wall (cosmetic damage, driver was fine) when his foot slipped off the brake (stock rubber covers) we decided to just bite the bullet and get the FM pedal kit. I like this kit a lot, feels great and makes heel toe shifting easier as well.



So, everything was going great and then we had a problem with the car. Front right wheel bearing started to go out. Did some research and saw the horror stories of bearing and/or hub failure. Replaced all four of them with Dorman Hub Assemblies and Precision Wheel Bearings all purchased at O'Reilly's.

Also at Chuckwalla I accidentally shifted from 3rd to 2nd while coming out of a corner... I figured out later that both of our stock motor mounts were pretty much torn in half. What happened is that when I pulled down on the shifter to go to 4th, while letting off the gas, the driveline leaned over since it wasn't under load and lined up 2nd gear for me. I wrapped the tach, the needle went past 8... probably hit about 9000RPM while shitting my pants at the same time. Luckily the car was totally fine, no damage, still made the same power on the dyno, disaster avoided.

Shelled out for some 949 Racing Poly Motor Mounts. We got the middle stiffness durometer, do yourself a favor and get the softest one... it is still MUCH stiffer than even the Mazdaspeed mounts. With the middle duro the whole car vibrates like a mother between 1000 and 1500RPM but feels awesome on track. Highly suggest these things.



Right after this, the clutch started slipping at approximately 106k miles. It was only slightly and during very quick shifts, instead of grabbing the next gear right away, it would slip down to meet the RPM's like a slipper clutch you see on drag cars even after you let the pedal all the way out. Decided to just take care of it instead of letting it develop into a bigger problem.

Ordered up:
1.6L Exedy Stage 2 Thick Disk Clutch Kit
1.6L Fidanza 7.0lbs Aluminum Flywheel
TechnaFit Stainless Braided Clutch Line (If I did it again I would get the 949 Racing line that deletes the pigtail.)



I figured this combo would be good on the track, and with the decreased clutch size in addition to the lightweight parts, would make for a considerable decrease in moment of inertia.

If money were more... abundant... for this build, I would have went with the 949 Racing 7.25" Twin Disk setup.

So I managed to put about 350 city street miles on the new clutch before hitting the track, I was a bit afraid that it wasn't broken in yet but it worked flawlessly. This is definitely the best setup that I can think of without going to something crazy like a tiny twin disk. One of the best upgrades to the car by far. Rev matching got a lot easier, engine was more responsive to throttle input, and the clutch felt great. I was able to shift a bit quicker too because of the decreased mass and moment of inertia of the tiny three puck clutch disk.

So fast forward a little, I'm working on the car, and I decide to change the shock stiffness... I turn the knob, it feels a little gritty like sand or dirt got in the knob (even though the rubber knob protector was properly fitted the entire time) and then oil starts dripping out of it at an alarming rate... awesome...

If you bounced the car up and down you could hear air traveling through the valving... ON BOTH FRONTS. EFF.

Luckily, they have a 2 year warranty and Flyin' Miata is awesome and sent me some replacements ASAP. I wouldn't hesitate to buy them again since they are backed by a good warranty and the stand up people over at FM. The warranty was process was painless.

I think it was just a singular bad run because the rears and the replacements they sent for the fronts have different batch codes on them and are still doing awesome.





Pulled them off and the shock that wasn't leaking was nearly seized. I could move the shaft at all, even in a vice.

 

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Re: Project "Plan B" (Track Build)

I see EVOMS and "Dan" mentioned in here. I take it you know Dan Zimmerman? :D
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Re: Project "Plan B" (Track Build)

I see EVOMS and "Dan" mentioned in here. I take it you know Dan Zimmerman? :D
Wow small world! Yeah he is one of the few people I need to look up at while having a conversation hahaha. :icon_cheers:

You'll probably find it hilarious that he stuffed himself in this car for one session and was actually somewhat able to drive comfortably. Also even though I'm 6'5", when I drove his M3 on track I had to shuffle steer because I could barely reach the wheel in between 10 and 2. :lol:
 

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Re: Project "Plan B" (Track Build)

Wow small world! Yeah he is one of the few people I need to look up at while having a conversation hahaha. :icon_cheers:

You'll probably find it hilarious that he stuffed himself in this car for one session and was actually somewhat able to drive comfortably. Also even though I'm 6'5", when I drove his M3 on track I had to shuffle steer because I could barely reach the wheel in between 10 and 2. :lol:
Yes, we miss his face around here. I also recall him mentioning he got some wheel time in a Miata (must have been yours). It was a car he always talked about wanting to have but obviously size is a bit of an issue.

Fun build too. I actually peeped through your RX8 log this weekend and enjoyed that as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #20 (Edited)
Re: Project "Plan B" (Track Build)

So. The time finally came that my dad was getting ready to get his Time Trials license. We figured we would slot the car into TTE with a dyno reclass, so it was time for the biggest round of mods yet.

First: Throw the cat on and get emissions and reg done for the next 2 years now that I'm about to make it even harder to pass visual inspection... The charcoal canister was still in at this point. Passed with flying colors and the guy didn't stall it even with the 7lbs flywheel and tiny grabby clutch.



Now for the parts that are going on in this round of mods...

Engine/Intake/Exhaust:
Exhintake Cam Mod (Use another exhaust cam on the intake side)
New NB Purple Injectors (265cc @ 3bar)
5xRacing Adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulator
5xRacing In-Line Fuel Pressure Gauge
Racing Beat 4-1 Header (Ceramic Coated Black Inside and Out)
Fel-Pro Exhaust Manifold Gasket
Racing Beat 2.25" ID Test Pipe (Ceramic Coated Black Inside and Out)
Roadstersport 3 2.25" ID Exhaust System (Connecting Pipe Ceramic Coated Black Inside and Out)
Gates Racing Timing Belt
Gates T-Belt Idler/Tensioner
Gates Racing Water Pump/Alternator Belt
Nissan Pump Co. Water Pump (made in Japan) with 3D Cast Impeller
Fel-Pro Front Main Seal, Cam Seals, and Valve Cover Gasket
Fresh NGK OE Spec Copper Plugs

Cooling:
Mishimoto 55mm Radiator
NRG Air Diversion Panel
Secondary Radiator Fan Removed
Stant 16PSI Radiator Cap (Mishimoto cap is known to fail)
Stant SuperStat 180* Thermostat with jiggle pin drilled out

Suspension/Brakes/Wheels/Chassis:
Hawk HT-10 Pads
More Cheapo O'Reilly's Rotors
Bleed with ATE Super Blue



So before I broke down and ordered the RB 4-1 header, I came across a craigslist find. Unknown brand header with a JASMA tag that came over on a JDM 1.8L. Runners had cracking at the flange. 20 bucks. Tits.

I took it to my buddy Al (he is the fabricator at Evolution Motorsports where I worked at the time) and he welded it up really nice in exchange for some Guinness. Score.

I did some research and I think it is the HKS header for 1.8L, but I tried to put it in and of course it hits the steering shaft... bad...

Right hand drive only. Womp womp. So it still sits in the garage, I don't even know what to do with it.

Also in this picture, Roadstersport 3 catback, and we switched to the RB test pipe so it was 2.25" and matched the header and catback pipe size.



Partz:



Installing with help from Noz, he helped out a shitload with getting all these mods on the car.







Shinyyyyyyyyyyy




Also later I got the header, test pipe, and midpipe all ceramic coated on the outside and inside. Helped cut down on heat in the engine bay a lot. Ignore the bottom pipe, that's a 3" ID midpipe for my RX-8.



Recent engine bay shot, this is what it looks like at the moment:





To the track! Everything was awesome during the shakedown.

Getting sideways in the tower turn at Firebird Main, tire walls and k rails on both sides lol.



This event was a good learning experience (we never get rain trackdays here in AZ), except for the fact that our intake is not... optimal... when it is raining. Sucked down enough water to piss off the MAF and had to dry that out then tape everything up. We ended up losing the O2 sensor a week later, probably related. Threw a Denso unit in, good to go. But ever since then our gauge cluster is kinda... twitchy. Thoroughly cleaned and re-did all of the grounds and still no change. It doesn't really affect performance but maybe I'll address it later.





Also we decided that for better cooling we were going to copy something I did on my RX-8. This company called GenRight OffRoad sells louver panels that are made for jeeps, they rivet on to almost anything.

Cut some holes, rivet them on, bam, better cooling and improved aerodynamics.

I can't find a picture of them on the Miata... here is what they look like on the RX-8, I'll throw in a picture of them on the Miata later.




EDIT: Here are some pictures of them on the Miata.



 
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