ClubRoadster.net banner

61 - 80 of 133 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
85 Posts
Discussion Starter #62
Bluetooth and USB both work on the ECU, I will use USB if I can, and Bluetooth if I must. I will see how it goes depending on which app i'm using and whether ShadowDash supports USB. I have heard it DOESN'T ...and... I have heard it DOES. I will just have to test it one day and find out myself.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
85 Posts
Discussion Starter #63
Here's the result of my first aluminium weld attempt - welding the water pump coolant inlet pipe as mentioned in the last post.
Not great, not a disaster and not bad for a first try I guess. But, most importantly, water tight. And now it offers the extra clearance from the turbo inlet which is what I was after.



And while I was at it, I had a go at welding the BOV flange to this aluminium intake tube. This is the tube that runs between the intercooler and the throttle body.
I cut, drilled and opened up a hole in the tube to allow the flange to receive the air, then massaged it to try ensure the tube and the flange meet up reasonably close. There were a few large gaps that made welding trickier. I think the differences in thickness also made it trickier. Being a polished pipe, there's probably a heap of polishing compound in there causing contamination?


The BOV in question is a turbosmart kompact for a Nissan I believe. Although it's a 'plumback' design, I'm just going to run it open to atmosphere as pictured.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
85 Posts
Discussion Starter #64
A couple of weeks ago I spent a weekend making these new flat carbon/fibreglass door trims to replace the previous CF ones which were too bulky for these gutted doors.
I wanted a simple flat panel, with a neat door pull and opener. The previous door trim opener was just a bit of electrician wire, and there was no door pull at all. So pretty much anything was better than what I had before.


The trim is mounted with 7 hex head M6 bolts. I riveted on these aluminium tabs and threw a rivnut in them


The interior door handle you may have noticed in the first pic is simply some aluminum tube bolted to the inner side of the exterior door handle. Pushing on the tube from inside the car will push the exterior door handle out. But, its simple and no fancy/complicated latch mechanisms required. Hand looks far too dirty for an IT nerd.


I'll finish off the top edge that meets the window with some sort of trim - haven't worked that out yet.
The door pulls were some random blue strap I had lying around. Opening the door is now as easy as pushing your thumb on the alloy tube and out the door pops.


Next thing on the to-do list is to start on sanding and painting the new fastback roof...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,017 Posts
In case you're not a subscriber of my channel on YouTube, or you just missed it, I have a collection of new videos coming out, here's episode 1 :)

Great job on the video, subscribed.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
85 Posts
Discussion Starter #68
Fastback Part 1
Over the last few weekends I've been doing my least favourite thing, body work. Bleah.


The new roof needs to be sanded, holes filled, painted, windows installed, and finally mounted. I've started on the boot section first, filled all the little pinholes and imperfections.


After many hours fillling and sanding with 120grit, this is where it ended up. You may have noticed the hole right in the middle where the third brake light usually lives.


This is the quick latch mount I've gone with.... It has a socket which hooks into a bolt with a spherical end. To remove the boot I just need to push the button and the whole thing pops backwards.
It's a larger size normally for mounting things like bonnets/hoods, but a single latch in the middle here seems to work well.
These apparantly can support upwards of 80kg which should be more than enough considering the boot weighs about 5% of that.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
85 Posts
Discussion Starter #69
Fastback Part 2

So the roof is all ready for paint now... Main roof section is now sanded


These are the mounting points out the rear of the main roof section, riveted and epoxied on, which the boot slides onto. Its just some aluminium tube welded to a flat alloy strip. The tube slides into holes on the boot.




The whole lot back on the car for now. Looking forward to getting it all painted and some windows installed so the car is completely sealed up again.



Well there you go, ready for primer next, and some sanding and perhaps a little more filling before the paint goes on.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
85 Posts
Discussion Starter #70
PAINT!

So onto painting, and first off... allow me to introduce you to my makeshift paint booth:


With that I was able to get the parts primered for the first time which was a good feeling.


I then hit the whole lot with some more sanding and filled a few more imperfections.


A final coat of primer to seal it all up. Looking nice and smooth all over now and in the sun to cure well. Special mention to the supercharged NA.


Finally, colour! Looking nice and shiny in what I thought was Mazda 'Pure White'.


I had an apprentice helping out, however the bloke was pretty useless so I fired him.


After a day enjoying the sun I set the parts on the car and scratched my head as to why the colour was so off...


It would seem the bloke at the paint shop stuffed up somehow along the way. The colour was too creamy. I went back and he mixed me up another can. He thinks he may have forgotten to add some black to the mix, either that or his paint code software is off. Note the two open cans. On the left is the original colour, on the right is the new mix.


So second attempt at painting and the colour is looking better. The ladder was a good tool for standing the roof up.


A reasonably nice gloss off the gun, and some orange peel. I guess I'm reasonably satisfied with the level of peel. When I get the time I might try sand it out a bit. Anyone know if it's worth the bother? Or will I make it worse?


The end result :)


Now it needs rear quarter and rear windows, seals and some brackets to mount it to the car, then this milestone is done.
But, gonna start on the exhaust next... and come back to the windows.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
85 Posts
Discussion Starter #72
Exhaust!

Well I spent the last few weekends on making up the exhaust...


Plan is to run a flex join on the end of the Nitro Dann downpipe which will then mate via a V-band to the rest of the exhaust. The exhaust itself will consist of a hotdog shortly after the V-band, and then a muffler at the rear. I would run less mufflers if I could, but noise restrictions are an issue.
I started by tacking the whole lot together with the MIG. The slip in fitment for the likes of the muffler and the v-bands make welding easier.
However, there is a huge gap around the hotdog ends which made welding those up a bit of a challenge.


Mocking up exhaust tip designs... This upturned style was one concept which got scrapped very quickly. :p
Notice however, I have angled the rear muffler upwards to make sure there is reasonable room for any rear underfloor work/diffuser.


To get the muffler where I wanted it, the boot had to go.


Saved about 3.5kg or roughly 7lbs. Not that heavy In the grand scheme of things, but every gram helps.


Fast forward a week and I spent a morning welding everything up properly. Given this is just old fashioned mild steel, I decided to paint it for a bit of added weathering/longevity. I found this white exhaust paint at the paint shop and figured it would generate some questionable looks...


Close up of one of my less sh*tty welds… Actually, lap joint of the v-band was reasonably easy to weld.


Also notice the huge fat hangers I’ve used. They are bolted to the car with round rubber bushes, much stiffer than a traditional hanger, but not completely solid. Hopefully they are sufficient to keep things sturdy yet not cause any metal fatigue type issues. I might need to cut some metal out of them, they do look a bit heavy.


And, last job was to try keep some of the heat out of the cabin/gearbox/flat floor... So I’ve wrapped it all in the DEI titanium stuff. This used up most of a 50 inch length roll (I think it was 50 inch).
I used this stuff on the last exhaust (pre-turbo 2.5” dia zorst) and it seemed to work well.



Next time I’ll hopefully get back to finishing the rest of the roof. :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
447 Posts
Can you elaborate on the Nexus setup? I really want to do this in my car but am not exactly sure about what software or wiring is needed. Is is just plug and play once software is installed? And can you make changes on the tablet or is it just presets?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
85 Posts
Discussion Starter #74
Hey MiataMan, hopefully this answers most of your questions.

In terms of hardware, It's a Nexus 7 2012 tablet hooked into a MS3pnp ecu. Connectivity is via either a bluetooth connection (requires a bluetooth module plugged into the ECU) or via the USB OTG (on-the-go) cable from the ECU to the tablets micro-USB port. Does not work with a serial to USB adapter.

The tablet has a custom OS on it, specifically: cm-10.1-20130817-USBROM-grouper (you can google how this is done, there are tutorials out there)
Tablet has also been hacked to force it to boot up when power is applied to the USB. (again, google can help here)

There are a few things to consider in terms of software, firstly there are 2 main application options:
msDroid - free (with a paid upgrade) great product which supports on the fly tuning, dash boards, live datalogging
ShadowDash - (paid only) also a great product which does much of the same stuff as above, except for the tuning part
Both of these offer fully customisable dashboard options....

And, I also have AutomateIt which does some fancy work with automating custom actions based on triggers. So I use it to launch msDroid on startup, or put the tablet to sleep on power loss.

Hope that helps. :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
85 Posts
Discussion Starter #75
Reduced Mass Makes The Car Faster

Sorry it's been a while since the last update... but plenty of stuff has been happenning.
So following from my removal of the boot floor (to make room for the exhaust), I continued the work with the grinder and cut out the remainder of the boot floor, that being the parts either side of the main frame rails in the boot where the battery usually lives on these cars.
In theory I could probably cut the frame rails out also, however, I thought it would be good to keep them for now, at least until the wing mount is worked out.


The other section I removed was the piece where the boot hinges usually bolt to, which lives between the passenger compartment and the boot area.


Not satsfied, I kept going with the grinder and took out the multiple layers of steel that lived above the rear wheel arches. There are about 4 layers of sheet metal here.
Sometimes it took a few passes with the grinder to take a layer off at a time to get the the next layer underneath.
And so many difficult hard to reach spots.


So much grinder dust and steel... and not looking forward to the cleaning that I will need to do.


The car is so much more open now, and the rear so easily accessible from the cabin.


While all external metal is still in place, you can really see how much of an 'airy' feel it has now.
I just wish I could shrink the fuel tank hump down now as it seems like a big lump in the way of what could be a big flat area.... MX-5 ute perhaps?


While I was on a roll, the seat mount hump thing on the drivers side of the car was drilled out and removed as the seat now bolts into the cage.


You can see the dash from the boot :p That's it for now....
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
85 Posts
Discussion Starter #77
Wow, quite the surgery. Serious question, obviously less weight is better, what are your thoughts on weight distribution/bias when removing weight?
It is certainly seeming easier to remove weight from the rear of the car than the front. I suspect I will need to make up some sort of tube front end one day to help with that.

But yes, while weight distribution is compromised, any weight reduction is good. Plus, I can just balance it out with more rear wing and diffuser right!? :D
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
85 Posts
Discussion Starter #78
I should also add, in case you missed it, we've had a few interesting events around Melbourne recently which I managed to get the video camera out for.
Cars and Coffee 2016 at Sandown Raceway and Mazvember 2016 - check out the videos below

Also, a blatant plug for my youtube channel. If you like various things MX-5/Miata/cars you should probably subscribe :p https://www.youtube.com/bbeavis


Cars and Coffee 2016 at Sandown Raceway


Mazvember 2016
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
85 Posts
Discussion Starter #79
Sometimes I hate doing this stuff

So some idiot cut a bunch of holes in my car and now I have to fill them back up.
So... bust out some CAD. I think the pictures say it all here.


The side sections need a slight kink about 3/4ths of the way along.


The sides will be mounted permanently, the middle section however will be bolted in for removal to make for easy access to... stuff?


The middle section has a kick up at the rear to meet the rear of the boot.


The carboard templates will be replaced with fibreglass panels weighing about 1/8th of the steel it replaces.


Oh by the way, take it from me, safety should always come first... my index finger had a close call with the grinder cutoff wheel because of the awkward cutting that was necessary.... so please always take care!
 
61 - 80 of 133 Posts
Top