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Someone is selling revalved digressive piston bilsteins for ~$1400

Looks promising.. woulda gone with it if I didn’t get the xida Gs and knew about it..



Link? It's not that Imperialgolem dude is it?
 

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Link? It's not that Imperialgolem dude is it?


For sale brand new revalved and fine tunned set of coilovers for NA/NB. Shocks are dynoed ( I can provide dyno results for customer)
Tommy Haake on Facebook


They are tunned for 400/300 lbs spring rates.
Fronts are fitted with torrington bearings

They have shrader valve ( for easy service and revalving ).
 

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Yep that's him. That's not a good price. Dude wouldn't stop spamming that setup all over MT.


I'd sell my setup for $1400 and it's a bit different caliber than that.
 

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Yep that's him. That's not a good price. Dude wouldn't stop spamming that setup all over MT.


I'd sell my setup for $1400 and it's a bit different caliber than that.


Correction, his ad was asking $1200. Not sure what yours consists of, but I don’t think it’s too bad of a deal..
 

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I don't doubt that setup costs $1200 or more to recreate.... but that setup at $1200 is a whole LOT of "y tho."


Do all that work, then run stock top hats and spring rates that oem valving Bilsteins feel great on. Pair it with some stock bumpstops that aren't going to be up to the task and you've got a pretty milquetoast experience.



If that setup is your goal, it's a fine deal. I just don't know why that setup would be a goal, is all.


Mine, not that it's super relevant because i can't imagine anyone here is actually interested:


David Whitener-valved MSM Bilsteins (also with schraeder valves ooooOOOoooooo)
Bauer Limited sleeves/perches
Hyperco 6" 700/400
Eibach 2.5" sliders
Hyperco CS100 tenders
Integra Speedthane bumpstops
Custom 1.5" extended NB top hats rear
Maruha 20mm hats front
Energy Suspension isolators front and rear


Setup handles springs lower than this well, as well as being perfectly happy in the 1000/500lb area.






Side note: Balleur-level food game on your IG. :)
 

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Hi questions.

How much did you move the circlip down? I'm assuming the bore of the shock is even through the entire length of the shock so there shouldn't be any pockets to have to worry about? Basically just pop em in the lathe and cut a groove that matches the oem depth and width? I've seen a lot of people cutting 1" off of the sleeves, so I'm assuming about 1" would be a reasonable amount?

Just double checking so my ducks are in a row.

I also know you said helper springs aren't necessary, but, if I nabbed a set off from some standboy's racelands it really can't hurt yeah? The spring rate of the helpers is a non factor unless the spring comes unseated, so it isn't super critical.
 

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Murse Magnet
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FWIW. My setup has me at 12.4 inches front 12.6 rear. I’m running the nb b8 shocks and 550 350 springs in 6 inch flavor with the Goodwin top hats front and rear.

I did not use a lathe to cut a new circlip.
My springs at full droop are not unseated and ever so much preloaded so renders or helpers are useless for me.

I did use a bandsaw to cut my all star sleeves a bit shorter so at full shock compression the sleeve wouldn’t hit the tophats and so the spring wouldn’t hit the sleeve.

I’m not touting my setup as the ideal setup but take it as a data point that I don’t have any spring unseated as I have it set up now.
 

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FWIW. My setup has me at 12.4 inches front 12.6 rear. I’m running the nb b8 shocks and 550 350 springs in 6 inch flavor with the Goodwin top hats front and rear.

I did not use a lathe to cut a new circlip.
My springs at full droop are not unseated and ever so much preloaded so renders or helpers are useless for me.

I did use a bandsaw to cut my all star sleeves a bit shorter so at full shock compression the sleeve wouldn’t hit the tophats and so the spring wouldn’t hit the sleeve.

I’m not touting my setup as the ideal setup but take it as a data point that I don’t have any spring unseated as I have it set up now.
Good info, thanks. I don't really want to cut to sleeves, but if I move the circlip down it has the same effect. I'm just surprised to hear that they never droop enough for helper springs to engage.

I will keep my eyes open for a cheapo take off set, but if I can't find them then I won't sweat it I guess. I'm probably over thinking everything. Next I'll want torrington bearings.
(not really, lol).
 

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Murse Magnet
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I run my car at a higher ride height than most of the people who use the budget setup so I have less of an issue with springs unseating. I also run the extended front and rear top hats and that further removes my springs from unseating at full droop.
 

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First Things First I'm The Realist
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I think people also cut the sleeves because the spring can rub the top of the sleeves. I’m not sure what causes that but I know I’ve seen it... and now I’m not 1000% sure it was BBB.

Also... I think racelands are 2.25” ID so the helpers don’t fit. I gave away a whole box of them I’d accumulated a few years ago.
 

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I think people also cut the sleeves because the spring can rub the top of the sleeves. I’m not sure what causes that but I know I’ve seen it... and now I’m not 1000% sure it was BBB.

Also... I think racelands are 2.25” ID so the helpers don’t fit. I gave away a whole box of them I’d accumulated a few years ago.
Terrible news but appreciated lol. That sucks.

If the sleeve is moved down it should also prevent the spring rubbing it as well. I'm assuming that happens because the angle of the shock, and therefor the sleeve, changes inside of the spring.
 

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Discussion Starter #1,593
Springs unseating is a jackstands thing. Doesn't happen while driving.


If you move circlip down, you don't need to cut sleeves.
 

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Not if you have the equipment. If you have the equipment it's about 10 minutes of work.
 

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If you've got the correct tool and a three jaw ten minutes is really pushing it. I'm thinking more like under 5.

I do understand why in most cases it would be easier to cut the sleeve, but if I was going to shorten my sleeves I'd be putting them in a lathe and doing it anyway. If you've got machine tools available.. use em
 

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I was including set up and measuring depth/width of the original groove in that 10 minutes. We also had to modify a cutter or whatever you machinist types call it to do mine. :lol:


But yeah. Point is: GG EZ FAM


Also top tip: Cut slow. You don't want to introduce heat into this.
 

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I was including set up and measuring depth/width of the original groove in that 10 minutes. We also had to modify a cutter or whatever you machinist types call it to do mine. :lol:


But yeah. Point is: GG EZ FAM


Also top tip: Cut slow. You don't want to introduce heat into this.
Slow is sometimes worse. Really depends on the cut and tool. The heat should leave the part in the chip and heating in the actual part and tool tip should be low.

Worst case you just spray some coolant on it when cutting, or blow it with air.
 
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