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wow
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69 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
My name is shawn, im 28 years old and im about to show you how to LS swap your miata without spending a million bucks on parts from companies.

here we go, apologies for bombarding you guys with pics.

First, you find yourself a nice little miata. In this case, im using my nb1. [You should already have this assuming you are on a miata forum.
[FREE]


Then you go to your local junkyard and rip out a 4.8/5.3 from a suburban or somthin.
[$250]

Grab yourself a transmission of choice........ we are on a budget here, so i chose a camaro T5
[$150]

you yank you mazdas little 4 cylinder [sell for $1,000] and grab a set of balls because you have to chop up your trans tunnel.


Use some posterboard to build some puzzle pieces to put it back together, trace them out on sheet metal, cut and reweld it back together.
[Material cost - $40]


Start up the bondo...... this part sucks.
[Bondo Cost and sandpaper - $40]












but eventually you get it good enough to where you can move on...... im not a bodywork guy so i don't car about the "imperfections"


So, back to square 1. cut up the subframe and again, grab the hand dandy posterboard and start building up some puzzle pieces to rebuild it.
[Material cost - $20]


















 

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wow
Joined
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69 Posts
Discussion Starter #2


Test fit it :]


Now we start to build up some mounts..... all this was done with a bench grinder, vice, cutoff wheel, flapper wheel and an amazon welder...... bought a set of bushings
Material and bushing cost - $80










This picture below, you can see that i decided to rebuild my engine mounts to be more stout....... this is before and after
























 

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wow
Joined
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69 Posts
Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)









Right here, you see the engine is angled 4* backward, so the pinion angle will have to match this
















ok, now that all the engine stuff is done, time to move onto the trans.

Draw something up in CADD so you know its going to work :rofl:














[MISC debts [scrap metal, hole saws, cutoff wheels, angle finders, etc] - $80]

So grand total, I have spent $660 [mainly engine and trans], HOWEVER we are still in the green of $340 from selling off the engine and trans for $1,000
 

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wow
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69 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
okie dokie, so here we go. I decided to take a stroll through the junkyard scouring the lincoln mark 8's..... all the differentials were yanked so i started to check out the thunderbirds and cougars...... eventually came across a 5.0 tbird with a locking 3.08 8.8 :haiguyths: So i grabbed it and headed out.
$80



I have thought of the many different axle options that are available and none of them seem to fit the bill of "budget"
DSS - $1100
Monster miata stuff - $690

....... yeah, still a little on the expensive side...... So, i kept telling myself there HAS to be a better way.

As far as all of us know, monster miatas kit is now the cheapest option because factory five racing has stopped making their axles.
Monster miatas kit will give you broached hubs and a a set of center shafts..... you need to completely disassemble the axle in order to rebuild it to the correct length...... no big deal here; HOWEVER i got to thinking and making some phone calls.
I scoured rock auto to find some axles for $50 each.
I also sourced one of monster miatas center shafts and i am going to use this as a "doner" for measurement purposes only.
I called up a couple of axle shops asking how much to cut and respline a set of shafts. Moser Engineering came back the cheapest at $125/set.

So; the plan is:
Buy cheap rockauto axles
Take them apart to send out the center shafts
send both center shafts and monster miatas shaft to moser
have them make duplicates
Order a set of broached hubs from martin
wait for everything to come back
reassemble

I believe these will need audi boots on the outer CV to keep the boot from rubbing on the shock.

Grand total for the complete axle/hub assembly = $375
rock auto axles - $100
martins broached hubs - $150
moser resplined shafts - $125
POSSIBLE audi boots - $13/piece on amazon [need 2]

and of course, i will be fabricating the mount for the diff; SO
total cost in rear end = $455
 

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wow
Joined
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69 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
8.8 rear diff build. It is EXTREMELY important to have this centered and the pinion angle set correct or else you will have drivetrain vibration.

I used this website as a reference. Mount looked superior and is very easy to drop the diff in case there are any issues.
http://miatav8.blogspot.com/2014/01/rear-subframe.html?m=1

L brackets to hold the rear of the carrier mated with trimmed energy suspension bushings.
Plate with nuts welded on the back side is how it bolts to the subframe.

As for the front, square tubing with nuts welded to the backside of the plate..... once again, mated with energy suspension bushings.

Gusset the subframe so stuff doesnt tweak and you are done.

Enjoy another entourage of pics























 

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there's a lot of science in here
wheres the easy part where you just bolt **** together, drink beer and call it a day
this **** looks like you have to use rulers and stuff
**** that
 

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wow
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69 Posts
Discussion Starter #20
Built these awhile ago; however, going to build another set to show you guys how to do it.

Stay tuned.

 
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