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Ive got this up on Miataturbo.net but i figured you guys might want to check it out as well. Ive been collecting parts over the last year and I picked up an '86 BMW E30 last week to drive around while i'm doing my swap so i'm ready to get started.
A huge thanks goes out to m2cupcar for all the advice and direction he's given me so far. I'm going to need some help from you guys on this build as i'm new to turbo builds, megasquirt, and tuning.

As of right now I plan on doing all of the fabrication and install myself then get the car tuned by someone that knows what their doing naturally aspirated till its broken in. At that time ill slap on the Borg Warner and from what I've read it should be somewhat easy to adjust the tune myself.


Here is the car im starting from.


The assembled short block and a few other components i had them take care of took about 6 months to get back from the machine shop.


Calico Coatings coated pistons. Ceramic tops and Mahle skirts.


I brought the head to the machine shop after i ported and polished the intake and exhaust ports. I when ahead and smoothed out the combustion chamber while i was at it.


And heres the finished product.


Im a Mechanical engineering student at Western Kentucky University so i had access to some nice tools. I water jet cut some exhaust manifold flanges and other t3 and waste gate flanges that im not going to end up using because i ended up going with the EFR turbo which uses a T25 flange. If anyone needs some T3 flanges hit me up and ill sell them for cheap! .5" 304 stainless. the second exhaust flange was traded to m2cupcar for his ebay intercooler which can be seen toward the beginning of his thread. I also bought the PRC dual pass radiator and the bracket he made for the radiator as well.


Collecting parts. I picked up a bunch of 304 stainless butt weld fittings and schedule 10 pipe for the collector from mcmaster. MLS head gasket from gaskets to go. (currently working with them to send another 1mm to add to the gasket for additional piston to head clearance. ARP head studs, ID1000 injectors, Oil cooler, Tial bov and waste gate (prob wont use), Misc flanges.




List of current parts purchased. ill try to keep this up to date.

Engine FE3
RX-7 Rear differential
RX-7 rear axles
RX-7 Transmission and Trans seals/gaskets
Megasquirt 3
Turbo Borg Warner EFR 6258
Turbo exhaust manifold materials
Intake manifold Materials
External Wastegate Tial V44
Blowoff Valve Tial Q
Intercooler
Oil Cooler
Injectors Injector Dynamics 1000cc
T25 Flange
PRC dual pass radiator
Fan Spal 16"
MLS Head Gasket
Throttle body 60mm Jeep Grand Cherokee
Boost Celenoid
LC1 Wideband with analog gauge
fuel pump Highflow Performance
Clutch disk Dual friction disk from Ford Ranger
Pressure Plate ACT HD from Kia Sportage
flywheel Stock Kia Sportage lightened 3lbs
throw out bearing RX-7 TII
Pilot bearing Kia Sportage
fuel rail Stock Kia Sportage
Fuel pressure regulator Fuel Lab 525
Aluminum Adapter Plate for transmission to engine
ARP Headstuds, Nuts, and washers
**Update 5/31/11 Fidanza adjustable cam gears
**Update 7/5/11 Mocal sandwich plate W/Tsat. (M20x1.5)






Tadaa! Pulling the motor was easier than i thought. I achieved my goals for the day with no major issues.





Heres another project im going to try to incorporate. Im going to try to get it covered by some black vinyl that matches the interior. The design is inspired by the Mustang Super Snakes cluster.

Thanks for the support guys!



Ive been making some progress in the last few days. the new fuel pump has been installed after a trip to autozone for a fresh fuel pump o-ring.


Yesterday and today my focus was on the transmission adapter plate. Ive decided to go a different route than some of the other guys that have done the TII swap by welding the plate to the bell housing and essentially making a new flange for the trans. Its been a pain but so far pretty straight forward. lots of checking and double checking to make sure the input shaft is going far enough into the clutch disk/pilot bearing. i used alot of modeling clay to let me know where i was and how deep the shaft was going into the clutch disk. I ended up taking off 3/8" off the face of the bell housing to make up for the thickness of the adapter plate. I could have gotten by with taking another 1/16" but what i got gets me close enough.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
started cleaning up the inside of the intake manifold flange a bit as well. more porting and polishing... i thought i was done when i finished the head..


Uncharted territory charted. Got the adapter plate welded to the bellhousing and it drops right into place. super stoked about finishing this step.






Had some help pressing out the stock diff mounts in the RX-7 diff. FYI the best way to remove the rubber on the lower diff mounts. (saw tooth lookin ones) is to set them on fire and work on something else for 15 minutes. repaint and you're good to go. the heat until gummy and scrape method is pointless.




I got the rear diff mounts sorted out this last weekend. Im pretty happy how it turned out. Some of the welds weren't super important so i let my friend with no welding experience go to work.

Differences from my mount and MightyMouses' Mine must sit a little higher so i notched out the rear sub-frame. I also added some bushings to the diff nose mounts. I had sway bar bushings left over from my master poly bushing set so i cut them in half and pressed them into a 1" hole i drilled in the 3/8" plate. Hopefully it will help out a bit with the NVH. FYI The bushings that are pressed into the yolk of the diff are the same diameter as the ones in the miata diff.





A little update. I ended up droping the engine and trans in the car last weekend and made some motor mounts. I lined up the shifter perfect in the stock location and had about 4 inches between the firewall and the back of the block! Plenty of room for a coolant reroute but probably not so good for weight ratio. as usual the oil pan will be one of the shortest ever made (planing on finishing it when i pull the motor back out.) and theirs just enough clearance for the timing belt to fit in between the hood and gear. (ill remove the structural support for the hood for more clearance.) I got started on the intake manifold tonight and ill probably be working on it for the next few days after work.

In the meantime if you have any suggestions on top mount exhaust manifolds and suggestions on DIY exhaust manifolds please feel free to post up links and images for inspiration! Im planing on using a MIG with 308 wire and 100% argon to weld the butt weld fittings together. I hear alot of people saying TIG is the only way to go but havent seen any real horror stories from people that have done MIG so im down for being a guinea pig.


Did this after work today. Hopefully ill have it welded up by the start of this weekend.



Appreciate the manifold pics shlammed. I was planning on doing something similar.


Ive put the Intake manifold on hold till i can get the motor mounts re-made. I wasn't too happy with my first set so i opted for a redesign with some heavier gauge steel and poly bushings.
This means ive go to sort out my coolant re route so i know how close i can get the motor to the firewall. So far i've discovered that the Tsat cap from the 1.6 is the same bolt pattern as the back of the FE head but im not sure if its going to hurt if the outlet is pointing straight up. I should be able to get creative and make my way back to the radiator with it as long as you guys dont think im going to have an issue with it being vertical.


The head doesnt have the recess for the thermostat but i havent read of other guys having issues when they relocate the Tsat to the rear of the 1.6 head which also doesnt have the recess. Recess in stock miata/kia Tsat seen here


I was able to use the rear cap from the kia to cap the front of the Kia head but i had to drill to a larger size and use the dremmel a bit to make it fit. should work perfect with a different set of studs and a stock kia gasket.




Threads i've been referencing for coolant re-route
http://www.miataturbo.net/showthread.php?t=12027
http://www.miataturbo.net/showthread.php?t=32579
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Finished my motor mounts! Moved the motor back about 2.5" and started over. I think these should be strong enough. :D



Poly bushings that match the rest of the car FTW.

Hopefully i finish the transmission mounts later today. Pics when i get done.


Transmission mounts finally done. Hope to get the driveshaft to the machine shop today and then ill be working on coolant reroute stuff. drilling tapping the head etc..






Rebuilt the shifter with new springs and retainers. Feels just like a stock miata shifter. All transmission replacement parts sourced from mazdatrix.com



This is the front sub frame mod i mentioned earlier. Im hoping to have a little deeper pan and possibly gain some extra oil capacity. Reinforced with 12 gauge steel front and back. Ill box this in after i finish the oil pan and mount the engine in case i have to do any more grinding.


Coolant reroute in progress. I still need to drill and tap for the gauge sensor. Ill have to pick up the right size tap at the store tomorrow.


New parts! Mocal sandwich plate and VR sensor from a 2000 ford focus. the M1-206 oil filter is the largest one i could find with the right threads.


Had to pick up an extra male to male connector to thread into the fitting provided in the kit. I really need one with another .5" of thread on one side at least so im going to keep looking.



Oil pickup tube and oil pan in progress. My engine sits a bit lower than M2cupcars and DC2696s which has made the oil pickup tube a challenge. I've been battling contaminated welds and tight clearances which is making this step frustrating and time consuming. The stainless steel sheet metal seems to be welding nicely with the carbon steel of the stock oil pan. I'm learning that welding stainless steel is much different than carbon steel so hopefully I figure out the technique before i get started on the exhaust manifold.

Here's some blurry cell phone pictures of the tolerances and layout I'm having to go with.






This is where i'm at as of tonight.




Just a few loose ends to tie up and it'll be finished. Pan is warped some from welding but i think i can get it straightened out enough to keep it sealed. I need to do some research on the baffle in the bottom of the pan. Im not 100% sure im sold on my current design..

and tonight's evening news..



Driveshaft came in today! new input shaft and shortened 5.25" Luckily had a guy here in town that does this stuff for a living. Precision Driveline Glasgow KY. Awesome guy. 50$ shorten and balance and 96$ input (ouch) Input was rusty and pitted so i opted to get a new one.

 

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Discussion Starter #4
Coolant reroute provisions finished. Sandwich plate made from 3/16" aluminum. a .039" recess was cut for the thermostat to sit in. This means im running 2 gaskets.



Baffle installed and leak tested. I had 3 small leaks to patch after i remembered to put in the drain plug :noob: haha kinda scared me. Its been suggested that i use diesel fuel to check for leaks too. apparently it can penetrate small cracks much better than water.

Got a bunch done on saturday. Almost finished the intake mani but i ran out of wire. Haters gon hate my spool gun welding job but it is what it is. Im sure it'll do the job though. I can always sand it down and polish it up.


Throttle body is angled to the #3 runner.

All the runners lined up perfect except for the first two. about 1/16" off but nothing my dremmel couldn't fix.



Hmm.. ITB's? :)


This is what im thinking for my belt layout. what do you guys think?


Miata alternator with kia sportage tensioner (using V groove pulley on the inside). then the miata AC compressor using the stock miata bracket (Looks like using one of the bolt holes in the kia block to mount the bracket makes the pulleys line up.) Ill add a support plate behind the stock bracket and add a couple more mounting locations. Ill also need to use a tensioner for the serpentine belt. Hopefully its not in the way of anything..

I could put it all on the serpentine but the belt wouldn't have much contact with the crank pulley and id need to add an idler somewhere.


Little warm in the shop today..

Stock pipe cut down, welded, drilled and tapped.


Solution for AC bracket.




Got a good start on the alternator bracket as well. should finish it up tomorrow.


Id like to run sequential fuel and spark but have no idea how to set it up on the MS3X. Ive been trying to figure it out using the manuals online but this is not my strong suit. anyone know if its possible to run sequential ignition with the stock 1.6 ignition module? This is what i have.



99 Problems and this is one.. Injectors are too short. Ill take some suggestions on how to solve this one. at the moment im thinking lengthen the rail seats or cut and re-weld the mounts.


Alternator, AC, and Tensioner mounts modified and belts sized to fit.


Exhaust manifold in progress!! Im having alot of fun with this one. :D



Ive spent tons of money and put in about 20 hours a week this summer on this build and im finally starting to see something that resembles a turbo setup.

This feels good. :D




And This is where I am as of 7-31-11. Ill try to keep this up to date.
 

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Mostly Harmless
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Hot stuff! I'm totally jealous of all of that progress you've made.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Got the manifold all tacked tonight. Room for a 3" down pipe! One of the pipes leading into the collector has a pretty sharp angle which im not really happy about but its the price i pay for AC..




 

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Nice work.

I have to ask since im a Jeep Guy. What made you go with the grand cherokee TB as apposed to a 70mm out of a mustang or a honda?
 

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ToyotaCare........
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ive gone to MT a few times to check this build out but by the time i get over there i get sidetracked........... so im glad you put it over here. damn nice work man. i didnt realized you were literally building everything from scratch. again, damn nice work! something tells me that the rebuilt shifter needs a little somethin' somethin' :mrgreen:
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Nice work.

I have to ask since im a Jeep Guy. What made you go with the grand cherokee TB as apposed to a 70mm out of a mustang or a honda?
From what i hear people who run a huge throttle body loose drive-ability on the street due to a WOT effect. 70mm prob would have been okay but by cracking a 90mm like some honda guys run its essentially like running wot.

Jeep has a stepper style IAC which the megasquirt likes.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
ive gone to MT a few times to check this build out but by the time i get over there i get sidetracked........... so im glad you put it over here. damn nice work man. i didnt realized you were literally building everything from scratch. again, damn nice work! something tells me that the rebuilt shifter needs a little somethin' somethin' :mrgreen:
I'm still down for trading my old exhaust for a dope shift knob. lemmie know!
 
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