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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Details:
1992 Miata
Manual Transmission
AC PS Delete
YES battery is back in the car
Stock ECU

Ever since yesterday my miata have been acting up lately. I removed the battery so I could clean up some mess in the engine bay and now the car keeps dying on me. When I start the car and I let it run, the idle drops slowly and eventually the car shut off. Any way to solve this problem? Oil level is fine, Spank plugs still good, I believe the previous owner didn't mess with the vaccum lines (don't hear any hissing sound). what could it be? Lmk asap..

Engine bay:

 

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Just gonna throw the obvious out there since you didn't state it... Did you put the battery back in? :whistle:
 

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Discussion Starter #6
^ There's your problem. haha About the vacuum lines though, to really test them get you some starter fluid, let the car run and spray where each vacuum line connects. If the rpms surge on a particular one, there're your culprit line.
tekel? lol sorry, noobie here.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
could be bad connections on the battery?
sand them and try again.
go round all your earths aswell and clean them off.
if that doesnt work then at least its ruled out
I don't think it would be the ground wires. The idle wouldn't drop drastically because of the ground wires. lol.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
i thought it was shutting off completely.
could be a throttle position sensor or something like that then?
Right now I'm resetting the ECU. It was running fine. Only when I disconnected the battery and reconnected the batt, it started crapping out. -__-
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Adjusted the throttle body idle and now it seems to be running fine. Just to be sure, I'm going to change the spark plugs & spark plug wires. It is idling between 0 - 1 rpm. When it is cold it goes up to 1 rpm until it is warmed up. I believe this is normal? What else should I look at? fuel pressure? etc..

I was told 3 things you need to check: Air, gas, spark correct?
 

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i've been having the same problem on cold starts and higher altitudes (runs out to the palomar/mt laguna). at lower altitudes i just hold the idle around 1500-2K till the oil/motor warms up, and that usually keeps it from dying. other then cold start ups at sea level it doesn't have problems running (or crawling, since it's making double digit power currently). i did the propane leak test, and none of the lines show signs of leaking.
 

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Well I know that unplugging the battery on the NA8 is like resetting car's computer and it would run crappy for about 30-50 miles until the ECU adjusts its settings while you drive. I'm not sure if the NA6's are the same, but that could be why its running rough/dying.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Well I know that unplugging the battery on the NA8 is like resetting car's computer and it would run crappy for about 30-50 miles until the ECU adjusts its settings while you drive. I'm not sure if the NA6's are the same, but that could be why its running rough/dying.
Really? Well, after adjusting the Throttle Body Idle, it seemed normal again. Maybe that's it?
 
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