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Agreed. Good blanks are better than any drilled/slotted bling.
As if anybody here has something against bling :mrgreen:

Seriously though, would rotors like that cause any problems for street driving? (Spirited every now and then). I've heard about them cracking under high loads but I'm just curious... I'll need brakes soon.. :?:
 

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I would go with some PowerSlot rotors and Hawk HP pads.

Oh wait that is what I did.
 

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As if anybody here has something against bling :mrgreen:
Heh, I do... I try to avoid the sites useless areas ;)

Seriously though, would rotors like that cause any problems for street driving? (Spirited every now and then). I've heard about them cracking under high loads but I'm just curious... I'll need brakes soon.. :?:
You probably will not have problems with them on the street.

Realize though they will always crack before a blank would. In high stress/heat situations they provide less material thus a smaller heatsink. They also have holes for outgassing (modern pads don't do this anymore) and slots for cracking/cooling. They also have less surface area for the pad to mate up too and thus decrease the friction/stopping power some.

Besides all that... blanks are alot cheaper ;)
 

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so let me get this straight, slotted/drilled from a regular car performance store with no brand name is worse than blanks from a brand name? but are powerslot rotors as good as another brand name or better since they have the extra cooling efficency? or am i just totally stupid?(thats a given)
 

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Unless the holes were casted in there like the rotors that porsche and ferrari has, it's useless because you are drilling into a material, thus making it more inclined to hairline fractures and ultimately, failure. And note, there has been cases where even the ceramic drilled rotors that exotic cars uses fail.

The overall diameter of the rotor, tire size and coumpound, and brake pads have more of an effect on braking then slotted or drilled.

I've tracked with Autozone rotors and know many that do also with zero problems. Save the money.
 

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I think you'd be paying a lot of money for generic, relatively unproven parts of questionable quality. r1concepts is an eBay whoretailer. Their feedback isn't horrible like so many other eBay whoretailers who sell parts that don't even fit the application. But for the same (or less) money you could go with something that's proven to work well. If your only requirements are that you need brakes then it sounds like you have little to no experience with selecting brake components and that you'd prefer to spend as little money as possible which is why you dismissed stock OEM replacement components purchased from your local dealer. Brakes are like tires - they're consumable items available in many prices with different performance characteristics and tradeoffs. Most Miata drivers can't tell the difference between vented rotors and cross-drilled or slotted rotors so unless you really like the look you're probably better off spending your money elsewhere.

For inexpensive brakes I would recommend NAPA blanks for $12/ea. and some Mazda value pads for $30/set. Don't forget to change the fluid while your at it. This will get you back on the road for just over $100. Alternatively, you could get Brembo blanks for $25-$40 a piece (depending on where you shop), some Axxis Ulitmate or Hawk HPS pads for $60/set, and some Ford Heavy Duty brake fluid for $6/qt. The Brembo rotors might last a little bit longer (or maybe not depending on pad choice and how you drive), the Ultimates and HPS pads will dust more and have greater NVH but will have better initial bite and thermal fade resistance. This is pretty much the end of the line for street driven and auto-x cars. If you need better braking performance for the street then I suggest buying better tires or driving slower. If you need better performance for the race track then it all becomes about thermal management. Race pads that work well at high temperatures tend to work poorly at cold temperatures, are noisey and are very aggressive on rotors. You might go through a set of rotors and pads in one track day (makes the NAPA rotors so appealing at $12 a pop). If you're a big baller you might consider "big brake" upgrades with opposed piston calipers, etc. but I suspect this is beyond your scope at this point so we'll save that discussion for another day.
 

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Unless the holes were casted in there like the rotors that porsche and ferrari has, it's useless because you are drilling into a material, thus making it more inclined to hairline fractures and ultimately, failure. And note, there has been cases where even the ceramic drilled rotors that exotic cars uses fail.

The overall diameter of the rotor, tire size and coumpound, and brake pads have more of an effect on braking then slotted or drilled.

I've tracked with Autozone rotors and know many that do also with zero problems. Save the money.

I agree


from what i have seeen

alot of people go to autozone or their local auto shop

buy the lifetime warranty on the rotors

get nice pads and just beat the crap out of those rotors.. and get new ones after they're warped/eaten up.

sound's like a good plan.. i'll prob be doing that when i need new brakes again.
 

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If you're REALLY on the cheap, get the lifetime brake-pads also from Vatozone® also, track them until they disintegrate, then return for new ones.

WARNING: this only works if your car is really light though, if it's over 2100lbs (with driver), you will get brake fade.
 

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^YES. Dew it, and save money for more meaningful upgrades. In fact, if you goto Pepboys, you can get the Hawk HPS pads there for $53 a pair. That combo will be more then enough for you to not only start learning to wrench on it yourself, but also to get used to the handling of the miata, no offense, but you're only 16. No need to get all crazy......yet.
 

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^YES. Dew it, and save money for more meaningful upgrades. In fact, if you goto Pepboys, you can get the Hawk HPS pads there for $53 a pair. That combo will be more then enough for you to not only start learning to wrench on it yourself, but also to get used to the handling of the miata, no offense, but you're only 16. No need to get all crazy......yet.
lol i know. thanks man. i used to race shifter karts but i know it still isnt a car and even with that much experience it isnt enough at all. so yes, i am being careful when i drive and i know im not the best. seat time is the most important thing and i plan on getting lots of it.
 

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autozone rotors for the win, lifetimes and then good pads.

or if you want NICE rotors for your miata, skip the homo fake drilled/slotted and get the G3000 rotors from www.adrenalineracing.com
I was looking at those awhile back and if the boxes they show are differant than the rotors they show and the Centric (boxes they show) don't really strike me as being high performance? More like an oem replacement. I'd rather just get the lifetime Autozone stuff I guess. And dang I should do that soon, my rear brakes are squealing pretty bad :(

http://www.centricparts.com/
 

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I'm thinking of getting some new pads and rotors in the next few months. I've been going back and forth between regular OE type rotors, 1.8 upgrade, and these slotted rotors from good win

http://www.good-win-racing.com/Mazda-Performance-Part/13-1005.html

they seem like a good slotted rotor to buy since a respected place like good win is selling them, but I haven't found any revies on them, or even the brand of them. I would also stay away from very cheap cross drilled brakes, I just think there's a good chance of cracking under high heat/stress.
 
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