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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Chris' little red riding whore - A picture heavy narrative

Hey guys and girls, my name's Chris (initials work out to CBJ) hence the forum name. Anyhow, ended up getting a Miata after owning a 84 Cutlass (first car), then a couple Hondas, and then my Subaru, which I sold, bought my Miata, paid off some debt and pocketed the rest...

This is my journey.

For starters, here'a shot of my gone, but not forgotten Subaru.. car was put back to stock and sold.

Photo courtesy of DeathLens and Scraped Crusaders.

So now onto my Miata... picked this up about 2 weeks ago... it's a one owner 94, 5 speed, full manual car. Came with 70k miles (114k kms since I'm from Canada). Came 99% factory, only mods were a shitty deck that I promptly removed and put a double din Pioneer navigation unit it, and a KN filter (nice surprise).

Here's the plates off my old Subaru I used just to get it home under the radar.. Drove great but threw a CEL on the highway, which I scanned and turned out to be o2 sensor.




First order of business was to clean up the faded hard top... 50/50 shot


After that I went to get it road legal... got four new snows put on, put some 5w30 synthetic in, then after I did some serious cleaning.....


Fast forward to yesterday.. was just checking out some used JDM parts places and came across this set of untouched Volk CV Pro... they are a forged 3 piece for those who don't know, my set manufactured in 1996. Came will all original caps, hexes, and valve stems. They have never been apart and all Rays bolts are intact, no curb rash, etc! They were asking $600, I told them 5, we met in the middle.. But then I also talked him into throwing in some shitty steering wheel in with the wheels... Well... the shitty steering wheel happened to be a Personal woodgrain lol.... here's some pics.

pic at the parts place


up against the miata (needs low i know, in spring) - they are closer to the camera so they look a wee bit bigger than they will. but they are 16s


started disassembly, I will be having the centres re-powdercoated red to match the car, barrels are going silver, and the bolts/lips will be full polished.. I have gold bolts as well from BBS spares but idk about that against the silver door handles and hardtop latches.


filthy......


thirsty?


and here's some pics of the Personal woodgrain I got.....




and a MOMO woodgrain I have as well..


that's all for now. I'll be documenting my progress with the wheels/car as it happens. so stay tuned!
 

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Welcome interesting wheel choice, those in 15's with more lip would be tits.

You're off to a good start, haha can't wait to see what else is in store for this.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Meh, everyone does 15" with lips. They're 5x114 and staggered so it's gonna be a cool set up once refinished and adapted. Thanks for the welcomes thus far.. and treeafodo I'm from Toronto.
 

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Hi from Ottawa... Have you considered another choose for the wheel centers? I should be the last to comment on wheel colour choices, but I think you could do better than red.

..to each their own, though!

Welcome
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I have a pc sponsor so I have the ability to do potentially any colour! feel free to suggest... crack white might be nice, like an off white.. I have a cottage about an hour west of Ottawa! nice country out there, tons of water.
 

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Welcome!

Great job on using soda to reverse/remove the rusting on the bolts! You should follow up with using steel wool to restore the original polished finish.





Refinished bolts are on the right :)
 

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one of my favorite old school wheels!

but please don't paint them red to match the car ;( too much red. A nice darkish silver with the polished bolts and lips would really make them pop against the red much better ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Well wait no longer Shane, I split the wheels easier than I split your sister's legs (jk)

I don't need no stinkin oven to split my ****! Here's a easy how to...
1. Score around the silicone with a box cutter - I went around twice to make sure it was nice and cut. The angle it was at didn't allow full penetration so I needed a step 2.

2. Take a putty knife (screwdriver will score the aluminum) but be careful because it is hardened and can break/shatter.... Stick it into the silicone where you've scored already and give it a tap with a rubber mallet. Then give the lip a bit of a whack with the hammer just a bit off from where the putty knife is wedged.
Like so......


and then just work it around bits at a time until they come apart.. took no more than 30mins for all four.


NOTE: that when you split them this way, the face and lip will be attached still. I found it much easier to split face from lip than face from barrel. So, once the lip/face are off you can just cut the silicone and give the face a couple whacks and it should all come apart.

- please note I did not need to use heat, put them in the oven, do any kind of crazy weird ****, just use common sense!
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Welcome!

Great job on using soda to reverse/remove the rusting on the bolts! You should follow up with using steel wool to restore the original polished finish.

Refinished bolts are on the right :)
Thanks for the tips those look great! I don't know if I could use steel wool though, I think I'd go nuts! So tedious!! Here's my polishing set up, a shot from when I was polishing my BBS Super RS for my Subaru. It's a bench grinder with 2x 6" sewn mops. I have 4 different mops for different grades of rouge(s). Works great!

 

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Discussion Starter #16
Well, stripped a lip last night (only had enough stripper for one lip)... I used a stripper called Dumond Safe Strip. It's a non-odour, low caustic, stripper which can be used indoors and doesn't stink up the place.. It works great. Stripped the clear off the Volks no problem as well as my BBS last year.

Here's a stripped lip compared to a Volk factory cleared lip.


Now, after stripping I could have polished them, but I didn't like the machine grooves that were left on the lips.. So first, hit it with 1000 grit, wet sanded.


Then 2000 grit wet sanded.....


Then I got excited and grabbed some liquid metal polish to see what I've got.. I'm still going to hit it with a sewn mop(s) and rouge sticks. Here's a 50/50 of 2000 grit and a 30sec polish


And one semi-finished beside untouched.


 

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Discussion Starter #18 (Edited)
So I paid a visit out to my friend JP today... here's a picture of him...

.... may be hard to see him behind the mask and jumpsuit


almost there......


ahhhhh that's better...




to be continued.........

bonus photos
my friend's 17x9j square set up of Work Rezax Roar, NSX fitment awaiting some lovin....


and JP's 510 project looming in the shop shadows....
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Just waiting on my friend to finish my powder coating... in the mean time I refurbished the hexes and polished all four of the lips out...

here you can see a before and after of the caps.. i left the textured areas on the flat spots of the hex the same way volk did.. im kind of going for a factory fresh look on these.. i sanded down some of the machining marks, didn't want to go all the way incase it didn't look uniform for whatever reason.


and the four lips, ready to go!


opinion time: use my GOLD bolts that I have from my BBS? Or refinish the Rays bolt... one by one.. all 36x4 of them.. I'm kind of leaning towards the gold since they are more protected than bare aluminum bolts (tedious task to clean/polish once on the wheels) and I'll only need to buy about 8 more gold ones. thoughts?
 
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