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Discussion Starter #1
So I was bored and decided to put my build thread on here. So far there has been a lot of work done to the car so skip to the end for the current car.

This is pretty much how the car looked when I bought it. The only mods visible at this time were a hardtop and the headlight cover I made.



I got tired of my car being slow so I supercharged it. In retrospect this was not the best decision. Open diff, stock suspension… yeah fun times



Added a roll bar so I didn’t die as much.



I hated the giant pop ups since I am short and they block my view so I adapted a set of Eagle Talon lights to the car.





Also got some 6ULs to replace those shitty wheels.



A set of Tien Flex Later



I then dabbled with an air water Intercooler setup for a while. That thing was a turd. I recommend never getting one.



I got tired of the powercard sucking so I built a megasquirt for the car.







Designed my own shiftlight because racecar.





Finally got rid of the air water intercooler and went to an air to air setup. Couldn’t have been happier. Well at least for the time being.



Then I took it and got it tuned. Made 190 to the wheels which was respectable.



Because Racecar



Designed my own hood for cooling.



 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
And now for what I do with the car. Besides letting it sit most of the time I try and get out and track or autox it whenever I can afford it. I am a grad student now so I have dozens of dollars and another project car. Recently been getting quicker with it. Managed a 44.55 at Adams Kart Track in Riverside.
















Made a wing for the car. Here it is at its lowest angle. At higher angles it makes a huge difference on small courses.





Some fun at Seca







And hardparked next to my Volvo at seca



Then the supercharger bracket cracked and I removed the blower. I was sad.



No me boosta



So I was in the junkyard looking for a few parts and was drawn to the magnificent curves of this engineering feat. A 1995 Buick Riviera!



Well not really. But they have a 3rd gen m62 supercharger in them and the nose on it looked very similar to the m45 in the Jackson racing kit. Sure enough the noses interchange which means the front bracket for holding the blower to the head fits on.

So here is the blower on the bench once everything has been stripped from it.



Since the blower is fairly long I took a sawzall and cut off the back flange to get a little more room.



I then drilled the two holes near the top and tapped them. Where they are located you can drill all the way through and not hit anything important.



Instead of using a miata throttle body I decided to use one from a volvo. The 16v 740 series has a fairly slim throttle body. The same throttle body should be on a volvo 850 turbo too. The Throttle body lines up perfectly with the holes I drilled out and is exactly the same size as the inlet.





Only the top 2 bolts for the throttle body go into anything. I plan to jb weld a thin plate to the blower between the blower and tb to block some passages I dont need. With rtv the tb should seal fine.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Here it is in the car. Fitment is tight with the firewall.



And lastly the m45 nose on the m62.



Making the bracketry



Building the outlet manifold







First intake design using the DDM intake I had. It could not keep up with the M62 and the filter imploded





Second intake design



I decided I didn’t like the fitment in the back for that intake



So intake design number three



Finally did a coolant reroute for my car just in time to go to Adams Kart track tomorrow. Trying to get as much done as I can before I start on my PhD next week. I did a simple diy setup by flipping the front and rear thermostats. For the hose I used Autozone part XL 1215. Don't know the correct application for this hose but it is $20 and works very well.

Here is the 1.8 thermostat cover on the back of the head. Probably would interfere with the normal coils but I have coil on plug so plenty of room back there.



I needed to cut the hose and join it with a 90 degree turn to go down to the waterneck on the back of the head. I made this pipe with both a mounting tab and a bung for my coolant gauge to do so.



Here is the hose going to the back of the head with the above part mounted to the valve cover.



And the finished project.







More ribs for her pleasure. I got a few more ribs cut into the overlay pulley that I had so now I can run a six rib belt. The tensioner pulley fits a 6 rib belt. I need to get another buick nose pulley though since I messed up the one I had. It happens to be slightly smaller too which will mean time for more boost.



 

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Discussion Starter #7
Had some problems and needed to remove the blower. So while it was out I ported the outlet which seemed to help a lot.



I finally decided to put an oil cooler in the car. Something it desperately needed. I used a volvo cooler with a cooltek thermostat and mated it to the oil filter relocator I had on the car. There was no space in the mouth of the car so I had place it on the steering rack.







Did something not racecar. Although it was nice that the protege Valve cover relocated the breather line to a place where it was no longer crushed shut by the blower.



And some more current pics



 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
Lol people didnt let me finish posting. Also are all the pics working in post 4? They work when I preview that post but they dont show up when I actually post it

Edit:

Fixed it. Seems it didnt like me posting this video along with pics.

 

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Discussion Starter #12
Damnnnnnn,

That looks FUN!
Yes it is. Your damn b230 swap kind of makes me want to do a supercharged 16v b230. Saw a dyno of one with 300hp and 400 ftlb

Wow...I think I found another master DIYer. What's your degree again?
Masters in applied physics and currently enroute to phd in physics. Surprisingly it carries over well to this stuff. Since I am an experimental physicist we learn a lot of electronics and some machining. Hell my masters thesis was practically about ghettofabbing something.
 

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Well an update. My lc1 killed itself again. Full heater calibration and free air can't save it. Just checkk out the sper accurate reading it was giving me at idle!



Best part is it died while running autotune to correct for porting the blower. Car runs like poop now and stupid me forgot to save the previous tune.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Is it just the sensor or the actual lc-1?

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Dont know or care to know. This is the second lc1 I have had after the first one bricked and I sent it back to Innovate. Both have been worthless. I calibrate them fairly often but they still ate sensors on a regular basis and would like to all the sudden give screwy readings like this. It's to the point where I never trust the thing so I am going to ditch it completely.
 

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Someone told me that after he tunes a car, he doesn't run a wideband because they go to **** with constant use. The guy knows his stuff, but it seems so strange.
 

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Someone told me that after he tunes a car, he doesn't run a wideband because they go to **** with constant use. The guy knows his stuff, but it seems so strange.
Don't listen to him. All modern cars run widebands to trim fuel in cruise, obviously anything will break if you use it long enough. If you can't afford to replace a WBO2 every 50k miles or however long it is, you shouldn't modify your car.

OP, awesome DIY setup, love it. Ditch the LC-1 for a UEGO or Zeitronix setup, the LC-1 is just too damn finicky. My UEGO has been rock solid since day one, no grounding or calibration issues in two years with the same sensor.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
The sensor the lc1 uses is from a turbo volkswagon golf. I know cause I have gotten Bosch replacements at autozone before. So the sensor itself is fine for daily use since it is an oem part. Its the shitty heater control on the lc1 that is the problem.

On another note my car suffered some failure in the fuel system tonight. Went to go start it and the motor turned over twice then hydrolocked from fuel.
 
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