ClubRoadster.net banner

1 - 20 of 25 Posts
M

·
Guest
Joined
·
0 Posts
Re: FM's IRTB

I bet that's Keith's high C/R stroker for his Catherham kit car.

BTW, it amazes me that FM still hasn't jumped on the coolant reroute bandwagon.
 

·
Supporting Member
Joined
·
12,259 Posts
I need to do a bunch more research on coolant reroutes. I've seen people run pipes either side of the motor to the rear coolant passage. I don't have a turbo or high hp motor and I haven't had the opportunity to track my car yet so I haven't had any cooling problems with the stock setup.
 
M

·
Guest
Joined
·
0 Posts
Re: FM's IRTB

Kyle,

Talk to Mr. Woolery, he's the king of the 1.6 reroute.

I'm soon to be the king of the 1.8 reroute :wink:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,688 Posts
Re: FM's IRTB

I'm pretty sure Keith said that the irtbs he uses on his 7 and soon to be stroker rally car are off the shelf units from TWM (I think that's the name, it's that company that makes itb kits for almost any motor you can think of).
 
M

·
Guest
Joined
·
0 Posts
Re: FM's IRTB

The Track Dog was re-routed.
DOH! :p

That's right, I forgot.

What I meant by "bandwagon" was that it's such a widely-acknowledged upgrade that I can't believe they haven't felt it worth offering a reroute kit as an upgrade for their turbo kits. If you're pushing the motor, you really need a reroute and dual-feed rail to avoid leaning out the #4 cylinder.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,028 Posts
you only need the reroute if you track the car.

That being said, I've done more than 1 on the 1.8. I'll be doing it again on my new engine when it comes in. FWIW, if you have a tubo application, it doesn't make a lot of sense to run the coolant lines near the turbo or manifold. you should really do it on the other side. It makes for more work, but is a better solution in the long run.

I've had the new car (with a totally stock drivetrain) on track twice in the last 2 weeks. And it was having overheating problems. That is with good ducting and upgraded fans. for a couple reasons, I'm pretty convinced that the water pump is cavitating at high rpms. I need to slow the pump down in order to fix this, but I don't want to run underdrive pullies...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,028 Posts
do a search on miata.net lots of threads on it.

essentially, our engine was designed originally to be mounted transversely. the coolant route went in one side of the head and out the other. when they put it in the miata, the plugged the rear outlet and made a 2nd outlet in the front. This means that the coolant flows in the bottom of the front of your head, and out the top of the front of your head. The back of your head consequently gets very hot. when most miata engines fail, it is in the 4th cyl. because of the uneven heat distribution. The reroute mod essentially reroutes the coolant to flow out the back of the head and around to the radiator getting you more even cooling throughout the head. It also results in easier temp management because the hottest water in your engine is flowing to the radiator as opposed to simply sitting in the back of your head.
 
M

·
Guest
Joined
·
0 Posts
Re: FM's IRTB

To expand on Matt's excellent explanation... =D>

In a reroute setup, the thermostat housing on the front of the head and upper radiator hose are eliminated.

A thermostat gets mounted at the outlet at the back of the head sandwiched between the head and a 90* elbow pointing to the intake side.

A new upper radiator hose and/or solid pipe will run from the back of the head alongside the intake manifold to the top of the radiator.

To take the place of the removed thermostat housing, you place a 30mm freeze plug in the head to fill the hole. Or you can make an oval block-off plate with a gasket to mount using the two 8mm bolt holes left from the removed thermostat housing.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,028 Posts
or you can simply use the rear housing in the front and run the heater core lines off the front of the head. either way will work fine.
 
1 - 20 of 25 Posts
Top