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Cheyyyaaa
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1,389 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Short nose B6 motor, probably around 130k (non-original motor)

-Finding some power loss after the engine becomes warm, the RPM's move up fine, but it feels like it has no power on acceleration.

-Under sudden acceleration the clutch engages then disengages for a half-second and engages again (possible problem with the throw-out bearing as well?).

-I have found some slight sputtering and a random misfire, but only very rarely. Slight high-pitched ticking (not lifter-tick, or rod-knock) from the clutch when it is engaged at idle, but disappears when the clutch is disengaged.

-My oil pressure gauge does not work, so I cannot tell if there is any problems with it.

So I only ask those that KNOW what this could be from experience, not from what you've "heard" or "think".

EDIT: I might also add that my car get's quite a bit of abuse (drifting, racing, etc).
 

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this my experience with a bad SNC...

when I accelerated from a stop, it felt like someone flipped a switch somewhere around 4000 rpms. below that, the car was sluggish. it was intermittent at times, but still there.


as for the clutch issue, i don't know what to tell you...maybe inspect the hydraulic system and see if there are any kinks in the lines. i generally try test a clutch by trying to start from a stop in a higher gear (3rd) and roll out the gear under full power. if it's going to slip, it usually happens under a condition like that.

for your oil pressure gauge, the sender is near the oil filter. there is a simple spade connector coming out of it, sometimes that connector slips off.

your car has some serious issues, you may want to spend the money on a diagnosis to save some money and frustration.
 

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Cheyyyaaa
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1,389 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
this my experience with a bad SNC...

when I accelerated from a stop, it felt like someone flipped a switch somewhere around 4000 rpms. below that, the car was sluggish. it was intermittent at times, but still there.
Yes, this is the same problems that I have.

as for the clutch issue, i don't know what to tell you...maybe inspect the hydraulic system and see if there are any kinks in the lines. i generally try test a clutch by trying to start from a stop in a higher gear (3rd) and roll out the gear under full power. if it's going to slip, it usually happens under a condition like that.
I do need to flush the brake/clutch fluid, it's looking pretty gnarly.

for your oil pressure gauge, the sender is near the oil filter. there is a simple spade connector coming out of it, sometimes that connector slips off.

your car has some serious issues, you may want to spend the money on a diagnosis to save some money and frustration.
Ya, I've been busy with work, and being that some of my work is at the racetrack, I'm always dogging out my car for course testing or when the temptation succumbs. I have tomorrow off so I'll be doing some diagnosis and possibly doing some much needed maintenance.
 

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look up the loctite fix for the SNC.

I sold the car that had that issue to a friend, it was a 323 GTX. He made a custom woodruff key on a mill and it solved the problem. That car is still running like a top.
 

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Cheyyyaaa
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1,389 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
So I was reading up on the loctite fix, and read the difference between the SNC and the LNC, seems that I was originally misinformed by a friend and I found out that I actually have a LNC, but that still won't make my problems go away. I'll be doing the brake and clutch flush tomorrow, and hopefully that's the most I have to do.
 

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that's actually fortunate for you!

the bogging/misfiring you describe could be a number of things, though. spark plugs, plug wires, dirty VAF, fading coils, etc.

better than a fudged keyway, imo.
 

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Baseline the maintenance..and a wonked up keyway is not limited to the SNC motors..can happen to any Miata. Plugs and wires at the minimum..and look at the crank pulley while the car is running..even the slightest bit of runout is not good.
 

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Cheyyyaaa
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1,389 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
Did the brake/clutch fluid flush- still bogged. Then unplugged the MAF, gave a good blow trying to clear it of any dirt and etc, made sure that the plugs and wires were all tightened and secure, made sure the crank angle sensor was plugged in completely, and filled the tank back up with 93, and no CEL, no bogging, and it drove fine. It doesn't mean that it's fixed, but I'll keep my eye on it for the next couple of days to see if it goes wrong again.
 

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3MF is correct. It is possible to mess up the woodruff key installation and round out the keyway. Its rare, but not unheard of.
 

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Cheyyyaaa
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1,389 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
3MF is correct. It is possible to mess up the woodruff key installation and round out the keyway. Its rare, but not unheard of.
Tried to pull/push the crank pulley away(to) the motor and there was no movement at all, crankwalk is most likely not the issue anymore (no pulley wobble either).

I'm pretty sure it's an ignition/timing problem if the issue still exists.
 
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