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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So here is another thread request the help of the all mighty knowlegable clubroadster community.

I am still having problems getting my rebuilt motor started. Thought I had figured it out and dropped a new fuel pressure regulator in. But no luck. Here is the deal:

-Getting fuel TO the FPR, but not enough THROUGH the FPR to get to the rail.
-There is only about 5 in. of vacuum getting to the FPR while cranking.
-The fuel return is not clogged.
-The car wants to fire when I spray carb cleaner directly into the manifold.

So it seems like it might be a vacuum leak. But I am definately not ruling out the possibilty of anything else. Especially a cam sensor.

ALSO, DAFUQ IS THIS THING:

It's on the intake manifold for 1.6 only I think. 2 lines go into. PLEASE someone tell me what this is and where the two lines come from. I would seriously appreciate it. It's no where in my chilton shop manual.

Here is a zoomed out picture if it helps:


Again, Help is seriously need and seriously appreciated. If anyone can help figure it out, I might even come up with some kind of reward. lol :D
 

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The IACV is not your issue if it's not even starting. Fuel, air, spark/timing. Pop the rail off, stick injectors in little dixie cups and crank on it, confirm that fuel is making it out of the injectors and into the motor. If that isn't happening, back up a step. Pull injectors out, check to see that fuel dumps out of the rails (this will probably make a much bigger mess than the injectors). If that isn't working, back up again. Take the lines off and confirm which one is squirting fuel and which one should be the return. If all of that checks out, move on to the timing. Pull a plug, stick it in a plug wire, and check for spark while cranking. If you have spark, double check timing to make sure it's firing at the appropriate time. This is both a mechanical, timing belt issue, and an electrical CAS issue. If you don't have air going in, you probably just need a new motor.

My bet is you'll find the issue after checking the three fuel system things.
 

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Fuel lines easy to get wrong...front rubber line to the rail goes to the REAR mounted hard line...rear rubber line to the rail goes to the FRONT mounted hardline.

Just had a cylinder head off today...and made that note to the car owner as one of those 'teaching moments'
 

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fuel doesn't go THROUGH your FPR into the fuel rail into the injectors; it comes out of the fuel rail THROUGH the FPR back to the tank THROUGH the return line.

if you have it hooked up to run the way YOU described it; it won't run regardless of what you clean, and you may have damaged your FPR's diaphragm by hitting it with 30-40psi of fuel if it's reading 5psi.

so yes, check those fuel lines. it happened to me also. had the same problem after i replaced the head.
 

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The IACV is not your issue if it's not even starting. Fuel, air, spark/timing. Pop the rail off, stick injectors in little dixie cups and crank on it, confirm that fuel is making it out of the injectors and into the motor.
FWIW, use Dixie cups. NOT Solo cups. Those melt when you put gas into them.

:D
 

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Been there for switched fuel lines. Peep a friends car bet they are wrong like said.
 

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just my 2cents, but this happened to a friend of mine, check your ECU. easiest way is swap with a friend with the same year n model. again just my 2cents
 

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just my 2cents, but this happened to a friend of mine, check your ECU. easiest way is swap with a friend with the same year n model. again just my 2cents
i thought the same thing with mine when i had the hoses wrong. swapped ECU's and it still didn't start. also, because my tensioner wasn't working correctly, i keep skipping teeth every time i turned it over... which didn't help.

lol, oh hey that's what i said earlier.
i think the FPR should be okay, unless he was cranking it and cranking.
fucking guy.
i saw that, and i'm hoping this guy realizes that we're all kinda gunning for the same thing on this one, as it's happened to a good amount of people. it's like being told your car won't start without a engine, but to make sure, you check your tire pressure instead...:bouncin:

either way, $5 says he's gonna come back and say that it was something totally unrelated to the switch hoses that caused the problem. another $5 says he gets another FPR.
:suicide:
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
[/COLOR] either way, $5 says he's gonna come back and say that it was something totally unrelated to the switch hoses that caused the problem. another $5 says he gets another FPR.
:suicide:
Nope. I know to admit I was wrong. It was the lines. I made the mistake of thinking my 30 year mechanic dad knew what he was talking about. Lol. Thanks a ton for the help now that I feel like a moron. >.<

BUT!! The top end is now ticking quite a bit. Sounds like the valves clearance is off. But my shop manual says that they aren't adjustable pre-97. Any ideas? Should I talk to renown (build the head) about it? Or with it maybe break in over a little time.
 
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