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Yes you can remove it. 3 bolts I believe
forgive me but do u have a tip to remove the lower bolt?

socket or wrenches don't work.... dont have a tool that WOULD work, so maybe there's a tool that i need to buy?
 

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Tap that guide pin out of the way with a hammer and you should be able to get to the bolt with a socket. No special tool is needed.
Dan
 

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bad mother f......
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just tap that sleeve out of the way, then you can get to it.
 

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I've been told you may have to remove the header/exhaust manifold to get that pin out, then you can get to the bolt.

I've got to admit to being a bit stupid about this mod, are the lines coming from/to the pump the ones you loop?
 

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I've been told you may have to remove the header/exhaust manifold to get that pin out, then you can get to the bolt.

I've got to admit to being a bit stupid about this mod, are the lines coming from/to the pump the ones you loop?
no, those need capped off. The smaller metal lines are the ones that can be looped if you decide to use that method.
 

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i actually don't like the feel... it's waay stiff for me (but it IS my only car)

i opted to get a smaller steering wheel, which also improved the feel a lot.
 

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sorry to bump this, but i'm working on my WP/TB so its all apart again, and i wanted to finally get rid of the last bracket....

Tap that guide pin out of the way with a hammer and you should be able to get to the bolt with a socket. No special tool is needed.
Dan
the "guide pin" is the piece blocking the 14mm bolt right?
that one bolt is a pain, I think I had to take off the coolant outlet
my coolant outlet/water inlet pipe is off right now, still don't see how it can be removed unless that sleeve is out of the way.
just tap that sleeve out of the way, then you can get to it.
takin a dinnner break right now.... gonna try what was mentioned in this thread.
 

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I like my depower but I think I used grease that was too heavy and it likes to 'stick' in place. Not like a bad stick, but it's got alot of static friction so I can turn the wheel and leave it and it will stay at that angle while driving. Might have to pull it apart again and use a lighter lubricant.
 

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I like my depower but I think I used grease that was too heavy and it likes to 'stick' in place. Not like a bad stick, but it's got alot of static friction so I can turn the wheel and leave it and it will stay at that angle while driving. Might have to pull it apart again and use a lighter lubricant.
More likely the preload adjuster used to hold the rack against the pinion is a bit too tight. There's a fine line between the adjuster being too tight and therefore creating too much static friction, and it being too loose and keeping the rack and pinion in proper mesh. The factory manual's got a procedure but I think this is best done by feel.

Loosen the adjuster and you'll probably find the static friction goes down significantly. Tighen it up a tiny bit until you feel the friction come back fairly abruptly. Now back off again a tiny amound and just enough to again loosen things up a bit and you should be in the ball park. It's a sensitive adjustment that rewards some experimenting, but it's worth getting correct. It sure beats disassembling your rack again, re-lubing, and finding out that the problem's still there.
 

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I think you'll want it adjusted right where the rack is just about to get tight again, but it hasn't, or just as it transitions from real loose to beginning to get tight but not too tight. It's easier to feel than to explain, but you'll know when you get there. The best adjustment will give you maximum support for the rack against the pinion without excessive friction.

It's easy if the rack is off of the car; not sure how it will work with the rack in the car. Still, and if I were in your shoes, I'd give it a shot. If you're not comfortable with the results it's not that difficult to remove the rack for adjustment.
 

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^ are you guys talking about the nut you tighten up that holds onto the splines right next to the header?
 

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The large nut that holds the steering shaft into the rack at the correct pressure. I'll report back tomorrow when I fix it. :)
 

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The large nut that holds the steering shaft into the rack at the correct pressure. I'll report back tomorrow when I fix it. :)
The locknut for that large nut is staked by the factory. You should probably do the same or use Locktite to make sure it doesn't back out over time. If it does back out your rack is likely to be ruined (or worse things might happen) so don't skip this important step.
 

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Discussion Starter #36
I'm glad I wrote all this down years ago. It is a handy reference that is helping me out today!
 

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BEHOLD... the power of necrothread! :woolery:

Question though... this bracket lays behind the P/S pump. Is it okay to remove this completely like the bracket holding the A/C? Or must it stay in place? I woulda removed mine already but I can't get to one of the bolts.
forgive me but do u have a tip to remove the lower bolt?

socket or wrenches don't work.... dont have a tool that WOULD work, so maybe there's a tool that i need to buy?
Since I've done this recently (swapped my power rack out with a manual rack so I can depower the power rack at my leisure), I thought I'd share some advice on removing the PS pump bracket.

Tap that guide pin out of the way with a hammer and you should be able to get to the bolt with a socket. No special tool is needed.
Dan
just tap that sleeve out of the way, then you can get to it.
Dan and Stealth are pretty much on point. You just need to get that sleeve out of your way. You might be able to tap it further into the bracket and out of your way, or you can do what I did and use the bolt+nut to "press" it out.

The easy method that I used was to use the pivot bolt and nut for the PS pump as a press. Slip a large nut or stack some washers over the pivot bolt and place it back into the PS pump bracket. Thread the nut back onto it and start tightening the bolt+nut. The flange of the nut will catch the guide sleeve but will not catch on the bracket, and so you can just keep tightening the bolt until the nut pushes the sleeve to the edge of the bracket and you can pull it right out. Easy-peasy.
 

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Those interested... I just did the whole FM de-power method. The only thing not mentioned in the write up is to weld the pinion shaft. When its out, look at the shaft, its splined. Put one end in a vise and grab the other end with pliers and twist. It twists. May not be much but it does. It was explained to me that the power rack does that to move fluid to the upper area of the shaft. Bottom line, you don't want any movement/flex. When you get it welded (I paid $10) be careful about over heating the shaft and warping it. It doesn't need to have a big bead all the way around it, just 4 tacks on alternating sides of the splines to even out the heat.
Also about replacing the rubber "rack to frame" mounts. They are discontinued.....from Mazda. NA's, I don't know about newer models. I spent a week tracking a set down. Power rack mounts are different than manual and there is a "left'" and a "right".
Part Number: (for NA's) NA02-32123 LEFT, and NA02-32124 RIGHT.
I called FM and they didn't have any in stock and did NOT have any idea when they would get them in. (Coming from an excellent if not the best ever source, just get stock anyway).
OK, all done. I got it aligned at West End and I'm set. Feel wise? I love it, My wife hates it and thinks I did it to keep her from driving it. One small tip. The bolt/locking ring that compresses the spring that puts tension on the pinion shaft gear should be lightly snugged for 2 reasons; To tight and the car will not self center while driving, more importantly is that like any metal to metal gear, you could be slowly wearing a notch in the rack shaft that would also cause the rack to not self center and worse make it a little jerky to get it past center while driving. Think of it this way.... The wheel is about 99% straight all the time. You are going straight more than turning. The spot that is in contact the most is the center of the rack shaft, with tiny correcting movements while driving, hence the possibility of a wear/flat spot. Those who are cyclist may know the feeling of a pitted head set. Same theory, The bike is almost always going straight so if your head set it to tight it will cause pitting from the bearings being in the same area most of the time.

There will be those who de-powered using different methods, I'm not bagging on other methods. It is what it is, this is just the way I did mine.
 

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Also about replacing the rubber "rack to frame" mounts. They are discontinued...... from Mazda.
Why didn't you get the polyurethane mounts? Also what did you use to plug the 6 holes, or were they welded shut along with the pinion?
 
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