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Why didn't you get the polyurethane mounts? Also what did you use to plug the 6 holes, or were they welded shut along with the pinion?
FM were out of stock with no idea of when they were getting them. I just cut and crimped the lines.
 

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FM were out of stock with no idea of when they were getting them. I just cut and crimped the lines.
Oh ok, it sounded like you wanted the OEM rubber mounts. Which did you end up getting and where from?
 

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http://parts.arlingtonmazda.com/

None of the local SoCal mazda places had them, I even tried a few auto parts online places also. Stock are just fine per a close friend who knows all about miatas and a winning racer.
 

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So for $24 + S/H, were the original bushings noticeably worn where it was actually necessary to replace them? I'd rather save the money if I wasn't upgrading to the polyurethane bushings.
 

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So for $24 + S/H, were the original bushings noticeably worn where it was actually necessary to replace them? I'd rather save the money if I wasn't upgrading to the polyurethane bushings.
Poly rack bushings are $30. There's really not much of a difference over OEM though.
 

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Here's a additional thread on the subject, with welding the pinion also. http://clubroadster.net/vb_forum/showthread.php?t=31222

I'll quote my first post here for simplicity:

Thought I'd throw some photos up along with a few links, no need to re write it when someone else has done a good job.

Good links:

http://www.flyinmiata.com/tech/depower.php?x=1

http://www.motoiq.com/magazine_articles/articletype/articleview/articleid/1709/project-miatabusa-part-5--de-powering-the-steering-rack.aspx

Before you have the rack on your workbench

You need to remove a tie rod, you really only need to remove one of them, and that would be the one on the same side as the input shaft, the other one you don't have to remove...

You bend the ears back on that metal part and its free. Buy a new one, or reuse if you feel thats okey.



Seal, input/pinion shaft, bearing and c clip.



I took the seal off, didnt see any reason for it to be there anymore. Said seal pictured:



After reading a few thread on m.net and a rx-7 forum about welding the input shaft, I thought why not. Before:



After:



Now, put it together.




Disclaimer: do this **** at your own risk.


Welding pinion shaft info thread:

http://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.php?t=335874&highlight=removing+tie+rod
 

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I had something to add to this post. I recently depowered my rack the right way. I used the plug kit (which was great BTW) and pulled the input shaft to have it welded as many have stated above that the splines cause slop in a stock car that has been converted to manual steering. After pulling it, I discovered my car is different that every other car I've seen. My rack's shaft was NOT I repeat NOT splined together and lacked the play inherent to them. My pinon was keyed together, the key way about was about 3/4 of an inch wide and had zero play. This is on a 99NB miata with the OEM rack. I didn't have a decent camera but here are the cell phone shots.




 

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I should have mentioned, mine is a '94. Different shaft.
 

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My rack's shaft was NOT I repeat NOT splined together and lacked the play inherent to them. My pinon was keyed together, the key way about was about 3/4 of an inch wide and had zero play.
Are you positive you applied enough torque to move it? You won't be able to move it in your hands and need a vice/pliers. If it was a power rack then the pinion needs to move for the hydraulic valve.
 

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I used a vise and a very large set of channel locks. No perceptible movement in the gear. It was a totally different design that anything else posted and much more solid. Does anyone have any idea why my rack was different. It came apart exactly like the DIY said it should except for the lack of a splined shaft.
 

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I used a vise and a very large set of channel locks. No perceptible movement in the gear. It was a totally different design that anything else posted and much more solid. Does anyone have any idea why my rack was different. It came apart exactly like the DIY said it should except for the lack of a splined shaft.
IIRC my 2000 was like this. It looked completely different than any of the guides.
 

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One small tip. The bolt/locking ring that compresses the spring that puts tension on the pinion shaft gear should be lightly snugged for 2 reasons; To tight and the car will not self center while driving, more importantly is that like any metal to metal gear, you could be slowly wearing a notch in the rack shaft that would also cause the rack to not self center and worse make it a little jerky to get it past center while driving. Think of it this way.... The wheel is about 99% straight all the time. You are going straight more than turning. The spot that is in contact the most is the center of the rack shaft, with tiny correcting movements while driving, hence the possibility of a wear/flat spot. Those who are cyclist may know the feeling of a pitted head set. Same theory, The bike is almost always going straight so if your head set it to tight it will cause pitting from the bearings being in the same area most of the time.
Resurrecting this again -
Is it this part you are talking about tightening? The bolt assembly on the front of the rack.


I depowered it using the FM method plus welding but it takes a lot of effort to steer even at speed
 

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Yeah if it's tighter than before, try loosening that part in the bottom of the pic to create less pressure/drag on the rack.
 

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My Miata is a 2001 model. I'm running 205-50-15 toyos 888 and have an Sparco 330mm wheel, (planning to replace the toyos with 225-45-15 along a 15x9 UL's in the future) FM T25 as well.

With your experience, do you think depowering the steering FM style won't be a problem? My steering ratio is about 2.5 steering turns from end to end.

Thanx.
Ben.
 

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I did the flying miata way. I have quite a bit of play in my steering now. Anyone waan shed some light over here?
 
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