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went from manual rack to de-powered rack. I freakin hate it right now. It feels better with a 320mm steering wheel, but even though there's a quicker steering ratio, it feels like the rack sticks, and I have some play at the wheel while the car sits. Not sure if it's the u-joint bolt, my friend said he tightened it...and the Hans manual says to torque it up to 19 ft/lb...which is not that tight at all, so I'm hesitant to tighten it even more.

Any suggestions as to what I can do to fix the super stupid stiffness, the ~1cm of steering wheel play? If I have to weld this POS, I'm just gonna swap back to my manual rack. If it ain't broke, I shouldn't have fixed it.
 

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Bad rack, tie rods, improper depower/install, unwelded pinion...they all are possibilities but it sounds like it's easier for you to just put the manual rack back in.
 

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You must weld the pinion, lest there be slop. In a depowered rack this is what keeps it so precise.
 

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went from manual rack to de-powered rack. I freakin hate it right now. It feels better with a 320mm steering wheel, but even though there's a quicker steering ratio, it feels like the rack sticks, and I have some play at the wheel while the car sits. Not sure if it's the u-joint bolt, my friend said he tightened it...and the Hans manual says to torque it up to 19 ft/lb...which is not that tight at all, so I'm hesitant to tighten it even more.

Any suggestions as to what I can do to fix the super stupid stiffness, the ~1cm of steering wheel play? If I have to weld this POS, I'm just gonna swap back to my manual rack. If it ain't broke, I shouldn't have fixed it.
Could be the torque on the pinon but its probably your castor number is to high you want it to be around 3.5. Need to get the car realigned.
 

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currently working on this. Anybody have an idea what size the banjo bolt is? Cant get the damned thing out

edit: got it after a trip to NAPA for a 24mm wrench in case anyone was curious
 
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