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Discussion Starter #1
This is something Ive always wanted to do, and Ive never done a DIY write up so this seemed like a good opportunity.

First off, I have this in my honda pilot.

Its awesome for a few reasons.... It takes up less space than a regular opener, can control up to three doors, and most of all after I got done with installing one in my miata, it cost less than a brand new craftsman remote!

First thing you need to do is find a car. Homelinks came in a ton of different vehicles, in different shapes sizes and colors. after doing some research a later model chrysler seemed to be my best bet in finding one. you can order the units off of ebay, but I figured id try my luck at the junk yard first.

Right off the bat I found 2 cars with what i wanted, this jeep that ended up having a pretty nasty looking visor.



and this sebring that had one that looked like it had never been touched.


Also while I was there I snagged this valve cover for a later time...


I have seen the garage door openers go on ebay, but I think i got a better deal, after the $2 entrance fee to U-Pull-It, it only cost me $6!


looking at the visor this way, it opens like a clam shell from the top. I just took two large screwdrivers and pried it open, staying away from the homelink unit. Remember to save the harness that plugs into the unit for power.



Next you want to open the unit as well, it opens from the side with 2 little clips.


Now locate a place for your GDO, I chose the little blank next to the dimmer and cruise control switches, why? because its reversible, if I want to take it out i can just replace the plug with another blank.



The Protege that i pulled the valve cover from also had a switch blank i took so I would have a spare if i ever wanted to return it to stock. First you have to grind out the inside of the switch blank. I used a dremel. The top one is unaltered, the bottom is what you need to do. Also I picked up some project board from radioshack and cut it to fit inside of the blank. This will make mounting buttons much easier.


you can use whatever kind of wire you want but a cat 5 networking cable may be the easiest and that is what I used. I cut about 6in off one end and LEFT THE PLUG on it. you need to solder one wire to the top right pin of each switch. also one on the BOTTOM left of one of the switches, this will be the common ground. You will need two more wires for the LED. I removed the little red LED and hooked up 2 more wires to its terminals


I augured out a hole in the case big enough to fit the cat5 cable through and sealed it up.


Next, figure out how you are going to arrange your buttons. i have one glued to a washer because of the shape of the blank, it sits higher. the switches i am using are normally open pushbutton momentary. i got them from radio shack because it was convenient, you could get them much cheaper online.


Here it is wired up including the LED. Forgive me for not having a picture of how this is, it slipped my mind. basically just copy what you already did lol. also use the other part of your cat5 and leave the plug on it as well. I am leaving the plugs on so you dont have to solder in the car.


once again bust out the dremel, there are ribs in the way.


I eyeballed holes, id recommend actually measuring.


now by laying the cover over the buttons, you should have something like this.


after messing around with this, I found it easiest just to put a couple drops of super glue inside of the blank here to hold it. be careful not to glue the switches!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
now feed the cable back through the dash and push your switch panel back in.



The GDO needs a power source. I just picked the constant on from the radio, because i know that the opener doesnt draw much for power and is only on momentarily. Remove your center console and if you have an aftermarket radio its 99.99% gonna be the big yellow wire you want. ALWAYS test for voltage first with a meter. I used a vampire T-tap, but id prefer to solder in the connection. The orange wire is the wire from the harness in the visor.



Next you will need a good ground. I always make my own. again using the same harness I found a good place under the dash and threw a screw in it.


find a place to mount the control unit. I like here under the dash, its actually tucked up higher, im just holding in so you can see where in the pic. the red stuff is double sided tape, thats all i used to mount it.


the last thing is to combine the two plugs. you need one of these.


You are done! :phillyb::icon_cheers:: 3gears::bouncin:


enjoy your new awesome GDO!!! Id like to state that i am not responsible if you screw up your car. also this is only a guideline, there are MANY ways of doing this but I hope this helps a few of you out.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks guys, I wanted it to be as inconspicuous as possible if it was sitting outside with the top down or unlocked in front of my house.
 

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Very well done....my opener sits in my console, and if I lock it (like any time I park with the top down), I get home and have to shut the car off, open the console, hit the button, then start the car and pull into my garage...

I like your idea far better...
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Very well done....my opener sits in my console, and if I lock it (like any time I park with the top down), I get home and have to shut the car off, open the console, hit the button, then start the car and pull into my garage...

I like your idea far better...
This is exactly what I did too. I love the buttons now.
 

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I did mine a bit different. I am still using the battery from the remote, I just soldered wires to a button

Only change I made after this picture is I used smaller wire, this wire was was too thick for the motherboard


I used one big button and cut a 1/4 hole in the same aux space the op used, took 10 min:

 

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Discussion Starter #17
wiring really isnt as difficult as everyone seems to think it is, and the good news with this little project, if it got screwed up and you fry the opener some how, you are only out a few bucks with no damage to your car.
 
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