1 - 9 of 9 Posts

201 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I got sick of that stupid rod so I made a hood lift kit. Total time about 3 hours. Total cost about $21.

I think the end result is pretty clean. Cleans up my engine bay a bit instead of having that rod across my radiator while adding a little bit flare.

What do yall think? I had a guy at O'Reileys ask if I could make him one when I told him why I was buying the shock and bolts.

201 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Items needed:
16" Hood/Hatch Shock soft enough to compress with about half your body weight
M6-1.0 bolts x 4 (2 about 1/2 inch long, 2 about 1.5 - 2 inches w/ nuts and washers)
Aluminum L bar 1"x1" (available at Home Depot or the like)
Rotory Tool w/ cutting & grinding attatchments
Drill w/ Metal Bits (must be able to drill through aluminum and sheet metal)
10mm Socket
Metal File
Tap Set
Sharpy marker

1. Measure out 2 pieces about 3" long on the L bar
2. Cut out the pieces
3. With the bracket pieces sitting flat in this |_ direction, drill a hole (large enough to be threaded for the ball-jointed bolt from the shock) in centered between the edges about .5" from the top
4. Now flip _| <--hole, Drill one whole about 1" down on this face then one 1.5" or so directly below it.
5. Take one piece to designate as the end on the hood.
6. Mark a vetical line .5" away from the hole on the side with only 1. You are going to be cutting here. I chose to do this with a Rotary cutting bit.
7. Once you have a full cut all the way through |o||____| You are going to cut along the the bottom where the two sides meet. This will leave you with the side |o|___
8. Now that you have both pieces cut, file off the rough edges. I used the concrete floor on my patio to quickly round out the edges. Round off all edges for a nice smooth look.
9. At this point I chose to paint my brackets. Pick any color paint you want and follow typical coating procedure followed by a high temp or acrylic clear coat
10. Now if you have already tapped your brackets for the ball-joints bolt them in so they are on the outside of the L shape o|_
11. On the driver side of your engine bay you will find a small relay box covered with a black plastic piece in front of the clutch master cylinder, remove the two 10mm bolts and pull the piece away from the fender wall.
12. Here you will also notice a slit on the edge of the fender where it bolts to the frame. Take the bottom designated bracket, with the one holed ended facing down and towards the side wall, line up the top whole of the the 2 holed side at the back of this slit. Insert one of the long bolts through the hole to make it easier.
13. Mark the position of the other hole, which should be close to one of the factory fender bolts, and drill it out just wide enough for a bolt to slide through with ease.
14. Once the hole is drilled place the bracket in the same orientation and bolt it to the fender with the nuts on the bottom side. These will be blocked by the bracket so you won't see them when your done.
15. Now snap the 16" shock onto both brackets so that you can line up the hood bracket
16. Raise the end up with the long end of the bracket facing the firewall. This should have the bracket upside do with the flat side agains the hood and the single hole pointing down.
17. Line up the holes on the bracket so that you can mark two holes on the edge of the hood skeleton with out the lower hole slipping into the elongated slit. If it does then you won't be able to bolt it in.
18. Drill out these two holes being careful not to hit the skin of the hood otherwise you will leave a raised ding on the top side.
19. Once drilled tap a thread into these holes so you that the small bolts can be tightened without stripping the hole.
20. Again raise the end with the hood bracket now lining the holes up with the two tapped holes. Finger tighten the two bolts evenly in until you need a socket to tighten them. This helps to ensure you don't strip it. Then lightly tighten the bolts until you can barely turn them. Give them a quarter turn after so they are tight but not too tight.
21. Replace the plastic fuse box under the lower bracket.
22. Remove factory hood prop to see if the hood holds.
23. Now check for proper closing and opening. Take one finger and push down on the center of the hood where the latch is. It shouldn't take much effort if you got the right shock. You should have to push it atleast half way before it lowers on its own. It should lower fast enough for it to initially latch, then you push it down to lock it.
24. Pop the hood and lift it with one finger. You should be able to let it go and almost any height and it should hold its position. Then it should lift automatically about 3/4+ of the way or so depending on the strength of the shock.
25. There are no more. Your done!

You now have a functional hood lift kit for a fraction of the price of buying on. If you have any question feel free to pm me.

233 Posts
Looks great! I picked up 2 ~16'' hood lifts from a Hyundai off of ebay for 10 bucks shipped a while ago, and 1 side already has an L bracket bolted to it. I was going to use those, but never got around to install it yet.

5 Posts
I found this forum a few days ago and saw you article on the hood lift kit. I went out and purchased me the supplies to install. I did it today but the HOOD WONT CLOSE. How did you measure where to mount the hood brackets? I double checked and the support bottoms out before the hood shuts it stops about 12 inches left before closing. The support is 16" ,mpounted as you show but I cant get it to work. My way of thinking is the hood bracket when closed has to be before the thing bottoms out .And if so then your measurements wont work for me. Help a puzzled guy out I just dont see the solution yet. maybe I am looking too hard. Thanks Earl Dagenhart in NC :idea:
1 - 9 of 9 Posts