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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Anybody have any experience with this set of suspension bits? I really want a setup good for the track and isn't ridiculously hard for daily driving.

Side question: My current stock setup is somehow low enough to make the transmission scrape on large bumps. Would making it the 1-2" lower destroy my transmission? Should I get a brace from it to save myself from further problems?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I've gotten really vague answers. Seems like nobody who owns them has actually posted. It's all hearsay and it shifts from "They're as soft as racelands" to "They're better than Megan Streets." I just wanna get the right setup the first time around
 

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Murse Magnet
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ok ill be nice here. In the future look this stuff up. The fm vmaxx are stiffer than racelands. Just about anything is. If you just want low then from my understanding is meagan ez street or something along those lines is pretty good. there is no magical combination that is the best. it is personal preference. I personally do not like being low so my answer on good for track and nice on the road would be koni yellows. Now by track do you mean actually tracking your car or auto cross. if you are tracking your car then it is not advised at all to be that low. It will ruin the handling characteristic.

You also need to mention some sort of budget you have. Am i to assume you have unlimited money, less than $400. Very different answers for both scenarios.

it would also help to mention what car you have
 

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Murse Magnet
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I dont know if you are lowered already but if you just want slightly lower than stock the fm stage 2 tokico illumina package is suppose to be both great dd and on the autocross. I have the swaybars from flyin miata and I like them a lot but they are not the only company that makes them. Racing beat is suppose to be great too. Many people just buy the front bar and remove the rear bar.

Do what ever you can to not scrape or hit things with your car. Are you sure it was your transmission and not the oil pan? I believe many companies make a plate to go there to protect. Check out garagestar if I recall.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I'm at stock height and I'm sure it's my transmission. I can feel it in the gear stick when I go over a specific few at my college
 

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It is honestly not your trans. It would hit your frame rails and exhaust before the trans.
 

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Yea not to be **** but its not ur transmission; unless your romping the **** out of speed bumps.

ive taken the speed bumps in saddleback in my old slammed miata w/o scraping they are very small so i don't think your height is your problem.Are your stock shocks completely blown ? go over a speed bump in an area that doesn't have traffic and get out while on speedbump and look at where your making contact ?

its probably a little farther up from tranny at the front control arms where your bottoming out because ur suspension is way to soft. you just need to slow down over speed bumps your car aint a monster truck.
 

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Murse Magnet
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It is honestly not your trans. It would hit your frame rails and exhaust before the trans.

yah my bet is the oilpan if there is scraping.
 

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Murse Magnet
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if you are 100% positive it is the transmission then i would get fm frame rails because the frame rails are destroyed. It will also make the car handle just a little bit better
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I take the bumps so slow because of this problem. It has only made it less frequent. I'm going to assume my shocks are gone, or at least my front right since it's been over a curb (not my fault). This is why I've been rushing to get a new setup as quick as I can
 

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FM V-Maxxes are fairly pleasant for daily driving, not overly stiff at all. FM also has stiffer spring rates available as an option; I'd do that if I were to make my car track-only, but it's a DD so the slightly softer (original package) spring rates are great.

That's kinda weird that you're scraping at stock height, though. You can always get the FM butterfly brace/frame rails if you're worried about your undercarriage. I usually manage the speed bumps very slowly and very sideways. Hitting them dead-on straight is a death wish. It's do-able, it just takes some getting used to. :)
 

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Many people just buy the front bar and remove the rear bar.
This is pretty common for autox because it allows the inside rear wheel to droop and have better grip. On the autox course, this means less wheelspin and less oversteer. On the track, this set up will probably understeer like a bitch. I currently run no rear bar full time because the aftermarket bar I had on when I upgraded the shocks/springs was hitting some suspension components. I bought some adjustable end links and plan on putting the stock rear bar back on this spring
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Thank you, sixspeed. That's what I needed to hear. I'll consider the no rear sway setup and will probably go for it when I get to the track. Thanks for all the input guys.
 

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Thank you, sixspeed. That's what I needed to hear. I'll consider the no rear sway setup and will probably go for it when I get to the track. Thanks for all the input guys.
Although this depends somewhat on your spring rates, but I probably wouldn't run without a rear sway bar on the track. The car will most reach terminal understeer w/o a rear sway in track applications. But try both and see what you like, it only takes 2 minutes to disconnect a sway bar
 
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