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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hope this is the correct place for this, figured I'd ask for advice from a community I know.

So, my sis in law ran the car until there was no oil left and blew her engine on an automatic 06 Escape. She finally got it fixed recently at a cheap shop and I went and took it on a test drive along with her and the mechanic. First thing we notice is the driver side door will no longer open using the alarm controller, you have to use the key, all the other doors work fine though and the driver side door will still lock with the controller, just will not unlock.

2nd thing I notice is that the air wont cool, as soon as I started the car up I put it on max. I tell the mechanic this and he says they only touched the engine and that the A/C has nothing to do with the work they did.

We go on the test drive with the air on max hoping it will eventually cool with no luck. He suggests I take the freeway to see how it feels at higher speeds and it feels fine. We get off the freeway and about half a mile on the street we hear a loud pop, I pull over and he goes to check everything out, something is leaking but he can't figure out what it is so we head to the shop, all still drives normally.

We arrive and check it out for leaks and in fact there is motor oil leaking but that's all they can find. As for the A/C they use a gauge to check it out and tell me it's just empty and that I can get them to do it for a fee. I decide to go ahead an do it myself since I have some experience with a wrench...they change out a gasket for the oil leak and we take the car and they tell me that the engine has a 90 day warranty if anything comes up.

The car sits for about a week due to a dead battery and my sis in law finally get's a new one. First thing I notice after turning it on is that there is a slow drip from the crossmember to the passenger tire which I tell my sis in law about and tell her to take it back to the shop to fix. Along with the battery she bought a can of refrigerant, hose and adapter. Takes me a while but I finally figure out how to inject it into the system and I think all is going well but still the car doesn't cool. I go and buy a guage too and another bottle, larger this time. I test it out on my Miata and that works fine, will even show pressure, hers does not.

I take it to the shop personally explain to them the situation and again explain that the A/C was working just fine before turning the car over to them and told them about the leak. The first thing the shop owner tells me is that when I test drove it, his mechanic told him I had accelerated the car too hard off the freeway and that I wasn't allowed to do that, if the engine breaks because of that there is no warranty and that this is the case with automatics but not stick shift. I don't claim to be a master mechanic but I told him that no car that I've driven, automatic or stick has given me problems from driving it hard, much less putting my foot down to make sure there are no problems with the engine, can anyone tell me if I'm wrong or not?

I understand overheating and stress issues but it wasn't like I was planning on driving it like this everywhere, I was only making sure all was good with the engine and that it operated without issues at higher RPM's. They agree to check out my A/C issue and it turns out my condensor (they called it radiator for the A/C? I'm honestly not sure what it's called myself) blew out and that is why it wasn't holding pressure, that must have been what popped the other day. As for the cross member leak they say it's just refrigerant and since I've driven the car I can't find any more oil, it's a pretty slow drip.

How hard is it to replace this part? Could they have been at fault for it blowing out?

My sis in law took the car in again at a later point due to the cross member dripping oil onto the tire again, this time I'm sure it's engine oil and not refrigerant, since the oil is brown and the refrigerant is green. She also took it because theres now a CEL which I checked and is supposed to be the thermostat. According to my sis in law they fixed that leak but blamed the thermostat issue on my driving on the day we got it back.

Does the shop have a valid point? Anyone with experience with these cars or more knowledge then me please chime in!
 

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Sounds like the shop is trying to hose you bad. NEVER ever had I heard that I am not suppose to floor a vehicle, how does one go about testing the passing power right?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Yeah I thought it was strange, but at least I do have the argument that the owner's mechanic never said a word about it during the drive, only after the 2nd visit to the shop was this ever brought up.
 

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An engine is designed to work within the rev range the manufacturer set it up with. Thats why a car has a redline. If your motor is turning faster then that it will break something. Most engines will actually spin faster then the indicated redline on the dashboard tach. And every fuel injected car I have ever driven has a fuel cut off to keep the motor from over reving. The mechanic at the shop is full of ****. One wide open run to the redline on any motor should not cause problems. If it does something was wrong with the motor to begin with.
 

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Do you have paperwork to document the repair and money changing hands?

BAR can be the consumers best friend.....no shop wants to hear from them-especially small ones that pull this kind of crap

http://www.bar.ca.gov/80_BARResources/04_Miscellaneous/Consumers/Regarding_Complaints.html

driving too hard causing thermostat fault? mmmkkaayyyy

edit since I dont know what state you are in, presumed calif lol-every states has an agency to protect consumers from this bs-google will find it for you
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Yes, thankfully, it was all done legitimately with receipts, I'll take a look at that since I'm in California, thanks!
 
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