ClubRoadster.net banner

1 - 20 of 64 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
173 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I received my kit friday and as of today I have removed everything necessary for the installation. This part was not to bad with only the fuel rail removal being difficult. I did break the plastic locking tab on one of the injector elec. connectors. I will think about replacing the connector if I can figure how to get the wires out without cutting them. Otherwise, I will use a little tape to keep it from coming off. The four nuts under the inlet were not as bad as I had thought. Working from under car with the TB plus inlet brace removed and using different combinations of wrenches made this only a little difficult. Do remember to use six point sockets, you do not want to round off those bottom nuts. Began installation with mounting the FPR. First problem, the gage would not thread into the FPR body. I checked both with male and female brass fitting I had and found both had problems, but the FPR was the worst. I worked on it with a pipe thread tap and the gage threads with a die thread cutter until I got a little over 31/4 threads ingaged. I then set the IRTB's in place to plan the remainder of job. At that point it dawned on me I do not know where to mount the throttle cable bracket. From the pictures ya'll have posted, it seems to mount somewhere under the TB's with the cable running up and then around the attach device on the shaft. Suggestions? I will post further progress here as it happens, however, I am in no rush as I need to wait for injecters to come back from cleaning. Chuck
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
173 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
It's been running for 2 days now. It already has more power then before and the only tuning I have done is increase the setting in the link accel zones Z22 thru Z25 to cut down on hesitation with fast openning of throttles. It still has a little hesitation which I will be working on by changing these setting some more and will try to improve map response by going directly to map with two of the TB vac. lines and bypassing the small canister provided in kit. I also need to find a way to save link setting changes. Saving link changes are only allowed at idle, but because I have the TPS not connected to the TB"s, but pluged in and zip tied to rad. hose and held in off idle position with a plate, I can't do this without going under hood to change its position every time I "save". Thats going to be a pain when doing tuning. The main problems I had with install was an interference between rear linkage connecting bracket and cam cover which I fixed with dremal. See my web sit for pictures. I also had problem installing o-rings in fuel rail and ended up with two leakers. The edges on my fuel rail may be a little to sharp. What seems to work is a lot of grease and making very small angle wiggles when working the injector into the rail. I will report progress as it happens. Remember this car is not used much on road but is a autox./track car mostly. Chuck
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
173 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Click on my house (page 2) for pictures. Will get grandson to make video. No dynos around here, but will post hp/torque improvements based on DLL power curves taken before (1yr. +) and after install, if I can remember how to do. Its been a while since I have used DLL. Chuck.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
9,430 Posts
Why no TPS? I'm not familiar with the Link setup, so feel free to school me :) Install looks good. Nice to see the number of Fuji kits increasing steadily :D

I had the same o-ring issue :lol: I have to buy two sets whenever I swap them out in case I pinch one #-o I'm gonna widen the opening ever so slightly eventually once I find a good dril press.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
173 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
The oem 4 wire plug will not fit the TPS supplied with kit. Before now I have not checked on how the kit switch would work with link if I came up with a way to connect it to the oem wiring. The oem TPS will not connect to the Fuji TB without a lot of work to make adapter. Up until I ran up against the link "save" problem mentioned above there was no reason to worry about making one work. Keith at Flying Miata runs his 1.8/link without one. Also, I do not need some type of idle air control as this is not a daily driver so link does not need to know car is idling for this are any other operational reason. I have a question into FM about my situation. If we cannot come up with a non-TPS solution. I will first check on compatibility of the kit switch with the link. Someone told me it was a Honda type? If that is not doable, I will make something to allow the oem switch to fit the TB. Chuck
 

·
bad mother f......
Joined
·
3,173 Posts
Its cool that you have ITB's working with the link. So many people said it just wont run right.
 

·
Moderator
Joined
·
4,436 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
173 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
So far wot & idle are great. I am having mixture problems with everything in between. I started with the link tuned to the pre IRTB config and it is very rich. At first I just thought it was because of manifold pressure being so different. Now I am beging to think the fuel pressure (unknown) I had when link was originally tuned was lower then the 34psi (at idle) I now have. When I tried to use the link rough tune feature to lean things out it made a mess of it. Today I will put back the fuel numbers I had, but leaned out a little. I don't want to lose the great power I have at wot. Since I don't have access to a dyno my power test for the last two years has been to time a run from 3750 to 6750 rpm in 2nd. Easy to do and not hard on drive train. Best the old config. could do was 4.1 sec.. First time with TB's 3.55 sec. I am a happy camper. As to why the link rough tune would not work, two posibilities. One fuel is so far off link can't handle it. Two the car was running so rich the first couple days (plugs black) it may have messed up the O2 sensor and that is hurting the link. Anyone ever have that problem? Chuck
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
291 Posts
Chuck,

Great that you are up and running. Just looked at the FSM and here is some info that might help you on the TPS. The stock TPS harness has four wires:

Light Green / White: Vref of 4.5 - 5.5 V
Red / Black: TPS 0.1 - 1.0 V Accel pedal released; 3.1 - 4.5 V fully depressed
Red: Closed TPS signal 0V pedal released; B+ V pedal depressed
Black / Blue: Ground

The TPS that comes with the Fuji kit is three wire and omits the Closed TPS signal above. In my ecu, you can set the throttle position for idle condition, so the idle switch is not necessary. BTW, the voltages I saw across the Fuji TPS were 0.67 to 4.95V, so the voltage values are similar to the stock TPS.

Can Link blend MAP and TPS for fuel?

Bruce
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
173 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
Do not think link can blend signal, but will check. I went back and put pre-TB setting in link for row 600 (WOT) an leaned out others by hand. Now power is back. before I do any more tuning I will check O2 sensor. Chuck
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
173 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
Ran our first autox. Sunday and the TB's are great. Even wife likes them. They were still rich everwhere, but that does not seem to hurt power. Last three days I have been trying to lean fuel zones in link for normal street driving. Some sucess with that, but I am leaving the link 600 row, which is for wot, as it is. I don't want to hurt power for autox. There are several features of link I need to check, plus I have not even looked at timing. At this point I can say the TB's plus link is fine for autox/track, for street use milage may be an issue, we will see. I am about ready to try a auto tune again (the first one was a very bad) now that I am at least in the ball park on A/F for street conditions. I still have not figured out why the car was so rich after TB install even at idle. Maybe original FP was lower then spec. and I corrected this with the kit regulator set per the manuel. At idle I have it set at 34psi which is in the middle of the range in manuel. Has anyone ever put a gage on the oem setup? Chuck
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
902 Posts
Chuck-Great to hear that you were able to autox it and enjoy it. And I'm happy that the LINK works with the IRTB's.

Jimmy
FujiRacing
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
173 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
Went to our 2nd. IRTB autox. Sunday. This followed a week of suspension adjustment and a little ecu tuning. Half way thru the runs engine began running very rough. After a lot of testing I believe some of injectors must be partly plugged. Has anyone else run into anything like this? I will be pulling the fuel rails tomorrow. What finally pointed me in this direction is temp. of manifold pipes 1 and 2 are much cooler then 3 and 4. Since firing order is 1&4 then 2&3, problem is not likely a electrical. I remember blowing out fuel rails but not washing them or doing anything to new hoses during the install. Will let ya'll know what I find. Chuck
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
173 Posts
Discussion Starter #20
AsianriceO2, if you are asking about wire splicing when installing the link, there was none for my car. I did have to move one pin at the ecu plug. For detailed questions about your car you should contact Flying Miata. Chuck
 
1 - 20 of 64 Posts
Top