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Well i got the short shifter in and i've been running it for at least 200 miles now... and now for my impression: PRETTY GOOD. I always thought it would be so short that i didn't know what gear i would be in. But it's not like that.

Before i get into the details, upon inspection of the short shifter. the instructions where kinda sketchy but i think jimmy has revised that. Also the short shifter i got was the lighter version and what that means is that from the middle 'ball' section down to the bottom of the base is just like most short shifters with the extended fulcrum. And from the 'ball' section up to the top is actually a shaft which is height adjustable. I find that this is was the reason why i bought this item. full adjustable to what height you want. But the main problem that i had with the shifter was that the shaft that it came with was in m12. most of my shifter knobs are in m10. A quick stop to my local auto store fixed that. I bought a m12 tap and just tapped half way into my shift knobs so if i ever wanted to go back to my stock shifter, i can. While at the auto store i picked up some m12 bolts where i made my short shaft for the shifter. The shaft that Jimmy's shifter came with was about 9-10 inches long and i didn't like that for daily driving.

So after i created my own 4-5 inch shaft and fixed my plastic nismo shift knob, I readjusted the height of the knob to be pretty much a bit lower then stock.

Also another note is that when i received the short shifter it came with that plastic cup on the base of the shifter. I installed it as it was but i found that there was a bit of play in the shifter! So i had to pop off my stock plastic cup and just install it on the short shifter.

Another note i really must address is that there is a gap between the lower (smaller) shift boot and the short shifter. Because there is no meat in the shaft above the mid(ball) section there is nothing for ring of the boot to seal on. But so far nothing has leaked and i don't smell any oil coming up.

Over all i am quite please as this is my EXTRA security feature for my car. Instead of getting a quick release for my car. All i have to do is unscrew my shift knob from the mid section of the shifter and no one can drive my car away. Unless they have a shaft or stick of some sort. But still. i am quite happy with my purchase with a price you can't beat and with a nice guy like jimmy. Just hope he find a solution for that boot issue.
 

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I installed this last night. After the initial installation, I found that the shift was direct and short, but doesnt feel right ( requires alot more effort and seem to be brushing against something). I took it apart and re examin what needs to be done.


After NUMEROUS attempts to get it right, I think I finally solved the mistery of the missing instructions. This is what you need to know. (if you dont understand the terms here, refer to the instruction. I try to use the same terms so that people would not be confused)

the instruction refer to 2 pieces "shift push" and "shift spring". "Shift push" is the plastic piece that is shaped to cradle the "ball" of the shifter. while the "shift ring" is a metal ring that goes behind the "shift push". In the stock miata configuration, there are 2 sets of these. 1 set go above the ball, the other go below it.

The ball moves freely, but its guided by a shifter "pin". the pin is inserted into the ball's indentation / notch.

OK, now that we got that cleared out...

The extended extended fulcrum requires a new shifter pin. As a result, the fuji kit has supplied a flange spacer with a new shifter pin in place. The old pin is no longer used. you need to be aware of this, because the 2 sets of "shift push" and "shift spring" needs to be swapped as a result. The bottom set now should be without the shifter pin notch, and under the gasket. It doesnt really serve purpose anymore other then to seal the space, a new supplied metal gasket between the shift push and the shifter "ball". The top set should have the notch to the "shift pin", and this now sits ON TOP of the ball (inside the flange spacer).

The shift spring, and the flange spacer (which is made slightly larger then the shift push, so that it can surround the push) should be the closest thing touching the inner shift boot.

Once you do that, the shifter ball can be cradled again, and makes for more precise shifting.

FYI. the instruction tells you to reuse the shift push and shift spring, but its gives the wrong impression that it should be reused to be at the bottom under the gasket. THIS IS WRONG, as it is far to thick / high for that application.

The flange spacer also only fits one way. you CAN jam it in either way, but the shift spring and shift push cannot be added if the direction is wrong. as a result, the shifter will rattle, and the pin will scrape the hell out of the plastic notch on the shifter "ball". I have also noticed it requires considerably more effort to shift if it is in the wrong direction.

If anyone need help or thing I am wrong, feel free to correct this.
 
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