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Where do you pull the wire bundle through for the fuse block? Drill a hole into the tunnel?
I unplugged everything and routed from the inside of the car and routed the main wires through the A/C holes (referring to the firewall).

I am thinking of redoing my engine bay when the built motor comes in. Possibly a paint job and rerouting the wires through the transmission tunnel. I am going to saw a hole, run/extend the wires from the hole, and reroute the speed cable.
 

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I used a bunch of leftover bits from other projects.

-6AN stuff, a couple of bulkhead fittings, aluminum tubing cut and flared for AN... There is a "pill" valve in the OEM brake hose that you need to cut out and shove into your new 3/8" hose from the firewall to the booster. The hardest part of the job is making sure to do that right since the valve has a flow direction. You can almost see how the hose is thicker right at the booster.
 

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Where do you pull the wire bundle through for the fuse block? Drill a hole into the tunnel?
You are able to fully detach the fuse box loom from the car. It runs down the PPF towards the battery and ends there. Its like 8 connectors on the PPF and 2 10mm Bolts and it will come off. Then you can place the fuse box where ever and not have to drill any massive holes to feed the box through back into the **** pit.

There is so many different ways to do a wire tuck, so really its just up to your imagination. Just take into consideration wire length; exposure to elements (Heat/Water).

Best of luck.
 

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I used a bunch of leftover bits from other projects.

-6AN stuff, a couple of bulkhead fittings, aluminum tubing cut and flared for AN... There is a "pill" valve in the OEM brake hose that you need to cut out and shove into your new 3/8" hose from the firewall to the booster. The hardest part of the job is making sure to do that right since the valve has a flow direction. You can almost see how the hose is thicker right at the booster.
Ah, very clever.
 

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A few changes here and there.

I like what you did here seems a lot of others missed that you tucked the stock motor to the side of the garage. lol looks great ive been oogling over turbo toms build on youtube. I can see the effort it takes for the swap Two thumbs up to you!!
 

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While I understand the aesthetic appeal (some of these engine bays are drop dead gorgeous), it seems like people may be (1) creating future electrical problems for themselves and (2) are going to have difficulty tracking down the issues because all the wiring is hidden and difficult to access (not impossible to service, but perhaps a difficult pita).

On another note, what is the point of tucking everything to simplify and make the bay look cleaner, and then turning around and cutting the valve cover to expose the timing belt & gears? Exposing the belt and gears seem to go counter to the entire point of minimalizing things.
 

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While I understand the aesthetic appeal (some of these engine bays are drop dead gorgeous), it seems like people may be (1) creating future electrical problems for themselves and (2) are going to have difficulty tracking down the issues because all the wiring is hidden and difficult to access (not impossible to service, but perhaps a difficult pita).

On another note, what is the point of tucking everything to simplify and make the bay look cleaner, and then turning around and cutting the valve cover to expose the timing belt & gears? Exposing the belt and gears seem to go counter to the entire point of minimalizing things.
So what's your point? You don't like it? Who cares? Working on my engine with a mild tuck is way easier than on a stock engine because there are only the wires that are needed and they don't sling around the engine twice. Wire tucks are not necessarely about aesthetics only.

Exposing the cam gears can also be done for more than one reason. You need to do it when tuning cam timing so you can reach your adjustable cam gears. You can do it because the cover is not necessary to run the engine. You can do it because it again simplifies working on the engine.
 

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Do it you don't have a lot to move around and for a tip your gonna have best results running them though the fender a friend of mine did it and that's were they all went and it looked super clean
 

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Got all my little issues solved and car is idling perfect now.
You can't say fixed w/o revealing the details. :suicide: ;)
 

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If you're like me and actually prefer (for some reason) the fuse box to be in the bay, here's my solution for the ugly wires leading to it. 4" pipe cut to contour to the firewall. I'm going to build a sheet metal 'shroud' of sorts to cover the mounting location for the fuse box and all the wires stuffed behind it.

I think I like the fuse box in the bay mostly because it'll be a good base to mount my square shaped oil catch can.

Finally, if you don't have access to a welder, another good method is to use smooth head stainless steel carriage bolts, paint match them to the bay, and use them to visually delete all the leftover holes. I know it isn't as 'legit' but whatever, it'll still look nice.

 
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