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Its been a while since I talked about my wire tuck and what I did. I kinda gave up going back and fixing the text walls I first made.

My new/redone tuck is quite nice, minimal extending of wires and routing of everything puts the freedom of how you want to handle things in your hands. If I over extended wires I left them like that instead of cutting even more, I wanted wiggle room.

My Fender grommets are from AutoZone, They are for Oil filler Grommets Like 5$ for two.

Firewall I used a DEUTSCH HDP-20 - 29 Pins 12-16-20 AWG

**EDIT** I will have to double check a few, I threw away the paper after I was done. Going off memory. I will take more accurate pictures here soon. =)

Ill take a picture with everything in testing place tomorrow <3

IRTB 1.6 92' Miata Running MS2 vMS3.0 Board (Launch Control Mod/Flat Shift)

I eliminated tons of wiring due to stand alone ECU and my car has no options. <3

I also shortened my hood cord to about 1.5 ft and made it a pull release near my bumper/fender.

Removed:
ABS - Cruise - AC - Power Windows - Power Antenna - Center Console Light - Ignitor - Air Flow Meter - Ignition Coil - 02 Sensor - Idle Speed Sol Valve - Purge Sol Valve - Power Steering Press Switch - Door Switches - Warning Buzzer -

Added:
AEM Oil Temp Gauge (Spliced 12v from WHT/RED Pin 1B - Grounds go to 2D/2C) Wideband Gauge (Same as Oil Temp) GM IAT (Pin 2P - Ground 2D)


Fuel Pump override (Pin 2O to BLU/RED after Circuit Opening Relay, direct to fuel pump harness(Driver side foot well))

FYI Remember any aftermarket sensors ground to JC-02 (ALL Sensor Grounds go here)


Extended Wires:

Grounds:
JC-01 - 3 wires to place it next to the foot well fuse box.
Ground C - Untouched, but moved to Main Fuse box mount.
JC-02 - Untangled from loom, extended 2 wires. Placed at Main Fuse box mount.


HeadLights:

Pass. Retractr Plug - All wires about 15"
Pass. Headlight Plug - 6" Extension
Pass. Blinker - 12" Extension

Relays:
Main Relay - Untangled via cutting ground on separate relay.
All other Relays were untangled and placed next to steering column.

Misc:
Fan - Added about 6 inches.
Windshield Wiper Motor - 8"
Windshield Washer pump - 16"
Brake Fluid Sensor - 4"
Diagnostic Connector - Untangled Grounds, attached to Foot well Fuse Block (Where the Hood release cable ran through a white attachment, it slips right onto it!)

Routing:
I moved the POS+ battery cable into the cabin down the passenger side door pinch weld in those plastic protectors and then to the transmission tunnel.

HDP-20 Connector: Oil Pressure, Oil Temp, Crank Angle Sensor, CoPs, Wiper Motor, Injector Harness (Coolant/injectors), TPS, GM IAT

Transmission Tunnel close to firewall: Starter and exciter wire, Alternator (Both), Wideband 02, Neutral Safety Switch, Reverse Switch.

Driver Side to Fender: Driver Side Lights and Re-tractor, Blinker and Poser, Cooling Fan, Horn, Brake Fluid Level

Passenger Side to Fender: Pass. Side Lights and Re-tractor, Blinker and Poser, Windshield Washer Pump(Sitting in Cowl)

Pictures -- Feel free to PM me with any questions.































 

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So I made a little more progress with the wire tuck. I got to the point of installing my firewall plate and the HDP-20 connector hole ready for final install.

I am in the process of replacing the AEM wideband with an LC-1 but going to retain the AEM gauge. So my wiring layout will stay the same, just need to make a bracket/mounting panel for the LC-1 module.

Here is the panel alone and in final position.






Here is some test shots of the HDP-20 Connector in place.


With Cap --


Vinyl cover still on the panel - Back shot


I also took my relays and notched the bracket more to allow the relays to be completely vertical. I also moved my hood release to the front of my car just behind the bumper core support. I will attach more pictures here shortly, I need to pull the harness out to install the LC-1 wiring anyways. <3

Enjoy
 

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So I made a little more progress with the wire tuck. I got to the point of installing my firewall plate and the HDP-20 connector hole ready for final install.

Props on your cannon plug. I essentially did the same thing except with a cannon plug meant for aircraft. Trust me when I say, terminating this thing with automotive wire was EXHAUSTING. Auto wire has much softer and thicker insulation, aka **** ton harder to terminate.





That's a little bit more updated with toyota COP. Ended up going the fab9 cop rout, but had to leave town mid install for work. Hopefully within the next month I can MS and wideband then start prep for turbo.



Also, is that wiper motor new or did you clean it up some?
 

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I cleaned the wiper motor.

I still havent installed the Plug. I literally got the new engine in and took a test drive to Sunrise on Mtn Rainer, but then managed to wear on a front hub. :3

I have a ground issue with my Dash to figure out still, but I did get the LC-1 Installed. Little more test driving + finishing the dash issues then Ill final loom it all.

Looks nice though! I got tired of fighting tiny holes with big ass connectors.

Thanks!
 

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I've always loved cleaned up engine bays/wire tucks. Might make this part of my winter project on my NA. It looks great!
I would suggest getting a second harness if you can. You will feel more productive if you don't have to tear your car apart to do the harness.. Plus IMO I think you can plan better with comparison layouts.

Best of luck! I still got a ways to go. <3
 

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I'm in the midst of an extensive wiring reduction and eventual tuck. Although I'm having some issues seeing the trees through the forest.....


Anyone near NW Ohio/SE Michigan with some real wiring knowledge and ability willing to swing over and laugh at me while I look confused trying to read a wiring diagram and struggle ohming wires??


I'll provide the beer.
 

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Hey everyone,

So i've been looking at trying to finish my wire tuck sometime soon, but one thing that always bothered me was the firewall holes left when doing a wire tuck. I didn't want to weld mine shut so i've been looking around and thinking.

I've seen that Downstar makes a firewall plug for the Honda market, but there isn't anything similar for the miata, at least nothing that i've found.

Here are some pictures





My big hurdle in getting this made now is that I can't really get to my car to take measurements and I was hoping someone on here could help.

Anyone willing to get me some dimensions to be able to make something like this?

Thanks
 

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Its been a while since I talked about my wire tuck and what I did. I kinda gave up going back and fixing the text walls I first made.

My new/redone tuck is quite nice, minimal extending of wires and routing of everything puts the freedom of how you want to handle things in your hands. If I over extended wires I left them like that instead of cutting even more, I wanted wiggle room.

My Fender grommets are from AutoZone, They are for Oil filler Grommets Like 5$ for two.

Firewall I used a DEUTSCH HDP-20 - 29 Pins 12-16-20 AWG

**EDIT** I will have to double check a few, I threw away the paper after I was done. Going off memory. I will take more accurate pictures here soon. =)

Ill take a picture with everything in testing place tomorrow <3

IRTB 1.6 92' Miata Running MS2 vMS3.0 Board (Launch Control Mod/Flat Shift)

I eliminated tons of wiring due to stand alone ECU and my car has no options. <3

I also shortened my hood cord to about 1.5 ft and made it a pull release near my bumper/fender.

Removed:
ABS - Cruise - AC - Power Windows - Power Antenna - Center Console Light - Ignitor - Air Flow Meter - Ignition Coil - 02 Sensor - Idle Speed Sol Valve - Purge Sol Valve - Power Steering Press Switch - Door Switches - Warning Buzzer -

Added:
AEM Oil Temp Gauge (Spliced 12v from WHT/RED Pin 1B - Grounds go to 2D/2C) Wideband Gauge (Same as Oil Temp) GM IAT (Pin 2P - Ground 2D)


Fuel Pump override (Pin 2O to BLU/RED after Circuit Opening Relay, direct to fuel pump harness(Driver side foot well))

FYI Remember any aftermarket sensors ground to JC-02 (ALL Sensor Grounds go here)


Extended Wires:

Grounds:
JC-01 - 3 wires to place it next to the foot well fuse box.
Ground C - Untouched, but moved to Main Fuse box mount.
JC-02 - Untangled from loom, extended 2 wires. Placed at Main Fuse box mount.


HeadLights:

Pass. Retractr Plug - All wires about 15"
Pass. Headlight Plug - 6" Extension
Pass. Blinker - 12" Extension

Relays:
Main Relay - Untangled via cutting ground on separate relay.
All other Relays were untangled and placed next to steering column.

Misc:
Fan - Added about 6 inches.
Windshield Wiper Motor - 8"
Windshield Washer pump - 16"
Brake Fluid Sensor - 4"
Diagnostic Connector - Untangled Grounds, attached to Foot well Fuse Block (Where the Hood release cable ran through a white attachment, it slips right onto it!)

Routing:
I moved the POS+ battery cable into the cabin down the passenger side door pinch weld in those plastic protectors and then to the transmission tunnel.

HDP-20 Connector: Oil Pressure, Oil Temp, Crank Angle Sensor, CoPs, Wiper Motor, Injector Harness (Coolant/injectors), TPS, GM IAT

Transmission Tunnel close to firewall: Starter and exciter wire, Alternator (Both), Wideband 02, Neutral Safety Switch, Reverse Switch.

Driver Side to Fender: Driver Side Lights and Re-tractor, Blinker and Poser, Cooling Fan, Horn, Brake Fluid Level

Passenger Side to Fender: Pass. Side Lights and Re-tractor, Blinker and Poser, Windshield Washer Pump(Sitting in Cowl)

Pictures -- Feel free to PM me with any questions.
































Photos are not available
 

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Let me just say there is a TOOON of info here and should give some the information they need to go out and do it. And I say that because after reading this thread over about twice I went out and attacked my entire car. However, I can't see most of the pictures especially at the beginning of the thread. And if you're like me you just want to know moooore.

I have all the wiring diagrams, this thread, and a bunch of time on my hand. I do not have wiring experience, even though I know how to solder. I had to look up how to read a wiring diagram this morning and seem to have a pretty solid grasp on it. (not difficult at all).

Does anyone else any other great resources that'll make me feel like I'm guessing a lot less lol.

Let me break down what I have done so far:
1997 1.8 M Edition
Equiped w/ AC, PS, Cruise Control, Power windows, and power mirrors. Completely stock w/90k miles
(I know... I've destroyed a damn near perfect stock miata lmao)

I have my engine and transmission already pulled since I've been rebuilding my engine for the past 2 months(slow and steady). 3 days ago I came to the conclusion that I fancy a nice clean engine bay. So I got to work..

First of all I went into the car dropped the steering column and took out the dash. You also have to remove the big white thing in the middle, than the blower(which took me about 5 min of wiggling to get it out). I still don't know if I had to or not but I took out the passenger seat and picked up the rug on this side.

Then I moved on to the engine bay. I removed whole passenger side. (Charcoal Canister, Washer Fluid Reservoir, Coolant overflow)
I also went down and removed every plastic piece that holds down the wiring all the way to the lights. So I have that loom, which also plugs into some engine parts, off the side of the fender. (I also have the actual fender removed. Unbolted the solenoid(s?) for the egr and the charcoal canister. (I put (s?) because I'm not sure if the one that connects to the charcoal canister is also a solenoid but those two!) Finally, before moving on unbolted the main fuse box and took off the connections underneath it.

I then made my way down under the car along the ppf unclipping the little white things that hold the wiring along it. Becareful because there is a negative along it and one bolt like behind the wheel well. Naturally ended up in the trunk and unplugged all of the wiring that ends at the battery terminals. I have a power antena also so had to disconnect that. Found it easier to spin the top off and drop the antenna motor to get a better look at it and get the cables off it. Honestly forgot if that was worth it or not but I got the wires off and motor back up. The grommet inside the trunk is a bit tough IMO. I pulled the bottom first and that dislodged the rubber part, then theres like a white/clearish plastic retainer that you have to push down from inside the trunk. Pulled that wire down the trunk up the car and under the AC lines and out the bay.

That is where I ended my day because it was starting to get dark and I didn't want anything left out on my driveway so started cleaning up.

My Goals and concerns... help :c
I want to put the main fuse box inside the cabin on the other side of the firewall. But, I'm not sure where I'd put it? Do I bolt it up somewhere or just ziptie it down in the dash. Also do I have to remove something to make this possible? I'd really like to keep my AC tbh. How do the people with their fuse box in cabin run their loom? Also are there any other better places to put the fuse box?

Also want to relocate the headlight and engine stuff loom to the inside of both fenders. For the passenger side, do you just leave it coming out of the grommet in the firewall and just fish it through the little square already in the fender? Ive seen people's have absolutely 0 wires in that corner and some people even fill up that hole. I was also under the impression that I was supposed to use that hole to rerun the wires back down the transmission for the main fuse box.

I then want to remove the Airbags from the harness... don't @ me.. Someone earlier in this thread said that its wrapped up on its own.. is that right? just take off some tape holding the whole thing together and pull away the blue wires? Are they that separated from the rest of the little wires that its that easy? I'll have to sit down and take a look at it with the wiring diagram in hand. Are there anythings that i should becareful of when removing the airbags? like anything attached to the wires that I should make sure I don't take out.

Finally, (lol sorry) when I have everything out of the bay, I'd love to paint the engine bay. I haven't actually looked into this much. But it seems like most people in this thread painted their engine bay on their own.. I do not have a compressor or a paint gun. Are people painting their bays by rattle can or are they actually using a paint gun? Like I'd try to get a professional job done. Sanding it all down, some rattle can primer, paint, and clear. But would that yield as good of an outcome as the rest of you have been getting?

Sorry I put a lot but this has been my life for the past couple days so I had a lot on my mind ahah. This thread seems awfully quiet, but any replies would be much appreciated. I hope my little breakdown could help a couple people who need a different perspective. Thanks ya'll<3
 
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