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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)


Hey everyone,

Please thank our friend Stoly for the great idea. We've had (with his permission) developed a Miata-specific Vacuum Block to help monitor IRTB setups correctly. It is made to monitor more accurately your vacuum with your MSPNP or with a gauge.



The Vacuum Block comes with dimples in the body where you need to drill holes for your fittings (3 minutes job). This item is used to give a better reading to aftermarket ECU (such as MS2V3). If you only tap one runner and run that to the ECU, you're only getting the vac air from one runner. If you run all four into a vac block first and then to the PNP you're getting an average from all four making tuning easier and more accurate.

MINIMUM REQUIREMENTS:
We only need 10 buyers to make it possible. It's a cheap item, so I hope we'll be able to make it!

GROUP BUY DISCOUNT:
MSRP: $49.99
Discounted Price : $39.99 SAVE 20%

AVAILABILITY:
GROUP DEAL IS ON!

HOW TO JOIN THE GROUP BUY ?
Visit the following link http://rev9autosport.com/zeromotive-vacuum-block.html, add the product to your cart and send the payment.

PAYMENT:
The payment is 100% refundable if we don't meet the minimum requirement.

DURATION:
Group buy will end on April 15th 2012.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
just posted about this on another forum i frequent - lots of boosted cars. hopefully this gets you some business
Heya,

Actually, I wasn't sure if this would be suitable for boosted vehicles ?

If this group buy do well, there will be a possibility of Fuel Rail and Cam Gears (same awesome choice of color :hello kitty: )

Thanks!
 

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well...
on my previous car (mazdapseed3) there were a million vac lines from the factory.
add a boost gauge or anything else to the mix, i don't see why it wouldn't work.
 

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Will it have the ZeroMotive logo (or any other logo) inscribed on it? My preference would be a "plain" option.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Will it have the ZeroMotive logo (or any other logo) inscribed on it? My preference would be a "plain" option.
Plain possible, that's not a problem. Added the option.
 

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Yea why wouldn't this be suitable for boost? I have like 5 vacuum lines and it's annoying how they are t'd into different things.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Yea why wouldn't this be suitable for boost? I have like 5 vacuum lines and it's annoying how they are t'd into different things.
Heya,

I believe it could be also suitable for boost, but never actually tested it!

Thanks!
 

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Well I may put myself down on the list Friday.
 

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If you think you are going IRTB or turbo in the future, might as well pick this up now. :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Group deal is on!!! I've extended the deal for 1 week so if anyone wants to get it! No more 10 buyers needed!
 

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2 quick questions before I commit to buying.

Im gonna assume its aluminum. When you say it needs to be drilled for fittings, do you mean its a bare block and needs to be drilled. And tapped for what your using?

And how does it mount? I have a vac block now and it is to much of a paint to mount it. I like. How you have it on the brake booster line, but how does it?
 

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2 quick questions before I commit to buying.

Im gonna assume its aluminum. When you say it needs to be drilled for fittings, do you mean its a bare block and needs to be drilled. And tapped for what your using?

And how does it mount? I have a vac block now and it is to much of a paint to mount it. I like. How you have it on the brake booster line, but how does it?
It is aluminum and I'll see if I can explain this simply... The block has two large holes and six small holes on the side. If you were to take the two large caps off and look through it, it would just be a big tube. The smaller holes are threaded and have caps included; however, you'll need to drill those into the large chamber. Each of the smaller tubes has an indent that helps keep the drill bit centered. I can't remember the drill bit size but it'll make sense as soon as you look at it.

As far as mounting the vac block, it comes with two tabs under the assembly with a hole in each one. See below for a picture of where I mounted mine as well as showing which of the smaller holes I drilled out to run my set-up.

Finally, the sage advice I got (car is still under construction to can't speak to actual functionality) is that it is best to have each runner go to the vac block and then take that air flow/vacuum into the ECU. It takes 16" of tubing to create a vacuum on a Miata so I had my intake manifold drilled/tapped on the rear runner and ran a larger line to the metal tubing that goes to the brake booster.

This allows the vacuum block to take the average of all four runners, including any changes that might occur under braking and send one air signal, if you will, to the ECU. I'm running a DIYPNP from Braineack.

In the pictures you'll notice that I capped off both ends of the large chamber and drilled out four of the smaller ports for the intake and then skipped a hole and tapped the last hole to go to the DIYPNP ECU.

Ignore the tubing as it will be replaced since this tubing didn't really fit the nipples well.

Hope this helps.





EDIT: If you look at the top picture just under the DOHC on the VC you'll see a brass fitting. That is the one that I have going to the metal tubing that goes to the brake booster.

NOTE: If I had it to do over again I would have picked the runner one closer to the front of the engine for the brake line. Using the rear runner requires me to use more tubing to not have such aggressive bends in the tubing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Thanks for the reply!

For those who got into the group buy, everything will be ready within approximately 2 weeks!
 
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