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Has anyone in Cali tried or is currently using the Fuji Racing IRTB's? If yes, please give any positive or negative feedback. Thanks.
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Has anyone in Cali tried the Fuji Racing IRTB's?
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348 Posts
Yeah, I'm thinking of going with Maruha's through Chikara Motorsports, but want to get more opinions before I make a decision.
Anyone else?
Anyone else?
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If you've got a 1.8 I think TWMs are the best looking (for the money) since the throttle body is integrally cast with manifold and the linkage is anodized and real pretty.
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i still want to know if there is success w/ the home built. jubiride.
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I was under the impression that the Fuji Racing kit with the stand alone ECU, it is basically plug and play. Am I wrong?
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I had particular interest in TWM's because we use these for our Honda street/strip motors. But I am a little concerned because of angle on the TWM ITB's for the Miata where it seems to be a 90 degree angle. I don't know how that would affect the airflow in to the head.
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Is the above what you have used or are you suggesting it?
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I have a friend/mechanic/owner named Jerry Guzman at Jerry Built. He has access to a very good dyno and he can tune for me as long as I have the software and equipment. He currently dyno and tunes Hondata for Honda B series and K series. So hence the reason why I looked in to Maruha's also. I was thinking that I can purchase the software and equipment and do the tuning on my motor first. And if other members decide to go with Maruha's later, I can provide the software and tuning and just charge you a minimal fee.
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348 Posts
Are you referring to the 1.6 kit? That's what I heard, but I agree with Bryan that every motor is different in e.g. headers, cams if any, motor work, etc. I'm not too sure about that it being plug and play.
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"Plug and Play" is not the same as "Install and Drive Away at Optimal Performance". "Plug and Play" means that you won't have to splice lots of wires, do lots of soldering, etc. PnP means an easy install, and nothing more.
Quite frankly, anyone who tells you you can install x product and have it immediately operating at peak efficiency with no tuning is either a moron or a con artist.
Quite frankly, anyone who tells you you can install x product and have it immediately operating at peak efficiency with no tuning is either a moron or a con artist.
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348 Posts
I guess thats why one has to do it one time and do it right.
Working on Honda's and stuff has taught me a great deal. Tuning gremlins on Honda motors with ITB's is to get them to idle smoothly. With fat cams and high compression, sometimes its tricky but I've seen them get to a point where it is solid for daily drive. And I'm referring to TWM ITB's that we use for Honda motors. So far the combination of TWM ITB's and Hondata K-Pro is good. I wish we have a similar IRTB setup and ECU that would match TWM/Hondata combos for our roadsters.
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This is a huge assumption on your part that you are wrong on - with a correct and proper ECU (like my F-con), I never have to fiddle or adjust to keep them working. It starts like any other car - works fine in the hot and cold and at higher elevations. It is very stable and it is quite easy to install - it is the tuning when set up correctly, that will give you years of trouble free operation.
I recently adjusted them in Nov so that I would pass GA emissions and now I have 5 macros (or fuel maps) set so I can instantly tune it by dip switch for performance mode, track mode, street mode, emissions mode and you-do-not-want-this-mode.
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12,196 Posts
Peter, how often do you syncronize the throttles?
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