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I will find you. And I will kill you.
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Discussion Starter #962
Cool. Glad you fixed the temperature fluctuations.

I see what you did there. Must be a Northwest thing.


Hey Mike,
The sensor has a copper washer, you should be able to get one from the multi pack at Harbor Freight.


In other news, I just joined the MP62 club with you. We can have twins screaming next year at MATG.

Thanks for the info Cameron. I never even gave Harbor Freight a thought. Might still end up using that as the factory one didn't quite seal (see below).


Cool that you got a MP62. What kit did you end up getting? I think you will prefer positive displacement over a centrifugal unit. Not sure if I will make MATG next year or not but it would be cool. Hurry up and get it installed and tuned so you can give me some MegaSquirt guidance! :hello kitty:



Nothing like phoning it in. :littlepony:



So, I picked up the gaskets from the dealer Saturday. They are these:






You can see they are using aluminum now, just like oil drain plug gaskets. The recess on the thermostat housing for the reroute I have is a little smaller on the OD than the factory one so I used a sanding wheel on my Dremel to pare the gasket down to size. After a drive I checked and it's leaking a little so I will try making it a little smaller. If that doesn't cut it I'll go back to the neoprene gasket I was using.


Forgot but the other day when changing wheels over I went to adjust the muffler hanger I had installed to shift things more to the right. Turned out one of the nuts had come off the U-bolt. I had one the same size lying around so put that on, but I think I will get some Nyloc nuts from Ace to keep it from happening again.
 

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I will find you. And I will kill you.
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3,014 Posts
Discussion Starter #963
After sanding the OD of the factory washer down some more it was still leaking, so I put the neoprene one back in. Swung by Harbor Freight and got their copper washer assortment. Compared measurements between the 7/16" copper washer and the factory aluminum one, the only difference was the copper one was 0.09mm thicker. After looking at the sensor itself and how it fits into the thermostat housing I have, it appeared as though the sensor was bottoming on the housing before it was completely seated. The way around this was to relieve the outer edge of the sensor. I tried a couple of methods (file, Dremel metal file and sanding disc), the sanding disc worked the best. Note I tested this on the old sensor so I didn't screw up the new one. After some work I ended up with this:






Here are the copper washers:




Cost was around $7.00 and now I have lots of those suckers for other uses. Sensor is back in place, weather sucks right now here so a test will have to wait.
 

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I will find you. And I will kill you.
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Discussion Starter #964
Been a while since my last post. Test drive went well. A few days later when I was driving to C&C on the freeway it started losing power. Pulled over to the side and she died. Sat for a minute than restarted her. The CEL was on steady but everything else was fine. Drove her back home and then began looking at anything to see if I could figure it out. Nothing presented to decided to do some datalogging. Got that all set up, on the way up my street the revs went to around 3500 and wouldn't come down. Back home it was. I was pretty disappointed in this development so she sat. I finally got my finger out a week ago and sent my log to Reverant to see if he could see anything, still waiting to hear back from him on that. I did try driving her the other day, the CEL was on but all else was fine. That is, right up until the power fell off and she died. Wouldn't restart, acted like the battery was dead so I had to get a jump and drove her home. She started right up a day or so later. At this point I am leaning towards something wrong with the battery or alternator, or maybe an iffy ground.


Today I received these pretty things:





I ordered them last week so shipping was very quick. Installation will have to wait now for a few months as I am headed to work. Same with troubleshooting the engine problem. Should be warmer then at least.


If the tophats don't do anything for me I will be visiting a certain someone who recommended them and dropping some more trees on his house...
 

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I have enough trees, thanks!

Interested to see if the hats change your life. I won't run a Billy setup on an NA or NB without extended front hats.
 

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I will find you. And I will kill you.
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3,014 Posts
Discussion Starter #967
I have enough trees, thanks!

Interested to see if the hats change your life. I won't run a Billy setup on an NA or NB without extended front hats.

You and me both. I have the Feal extended tophats in the rear and I definitely noticed a difference there. Don't know if anyone else with Ohlins has tried this or not. If so I haven't ever read about it.
 

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I will find you. And I will kill you.
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3,014 Posts
Discussion Starter #969
Cool.

Serious question... do you have more little niggling issues than most Miata owners or just post about them more than they do? I can't tell since the forums died.

I wouldn't call having the car randomly losing power and stopping a niggling issue. :haiguyths: As for anything else, I am a sample of one so who can say? I don't post every single little thing that I have had trouble with (who wants to be that guy?) but I figure if I'm posting a build thread I might as well try to help folks out and post up what I have trouble with and the resolution when it comes. Of course that supposes that an individual looking for information will use the search function. I think we all know how that goes...
 

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I will find you. And I will kill you.
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Discussion Starter #971
I bought a new Supermiata QMAX reroute kit from someone I know who didn't use it. All I plan on using is the thermostat housing (I checked but 949 won't sell individual parts from the kit). The one I bought works fine but since I installed a new sensor and the gasket on it fell apart, I have been having trouble getting a good seal. If you check back in here you can see what I have done to try to make it work. The QMAX is configured so the sensor fits nicely with plenty of room for a factory gasket. One less thing to worry about for the future.
 

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Murse Magnet
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I bought a new Supermiata QMAX reroute kit from someone I know who didn't use it. All I plan on using is the thermostat housing (I checked but 949 won't sell individual parts from the kit). The one I bought works fine but since I installed a new sensor and the gasket on it fell apart, I have been having trouble getting a good seal. If you check back in here you can see what I have done to try to make it work. The QMAX is configured so the sensor fits nicely with plenty of room for a factory gasket. One less thing to worry about for the future.


If I’m not mistaken they advise against using a factory gasket because it would limit flow.
 

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I will find you. And I will kill you.
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Discussion Starter #974
Got home, checked the battery to find it under 2 volts. Wasn't that old but went ahead and bought a new one at the local O'Reilly's. I find it amusing that their part number is MIATA. Got that installed, she pretty much fired right up and I took her for a drive. Only PITA is that while the CEL wasn't in evidence initially, about 10 miles into the drive it came on. So I still have to figure that out (running a MS2 so I can't just plug in a reader to see what it is for). Going to keep an eye on the battery voltage to see if I might have some sort of constant drain.


I went ahead and ordered a CAS, CPS and coolant sensor from Rock Auto so I had them on hand should they be needed (since the two sensors are known failure points for NBs). Those are in hand, along with the QMAX reroute. I had to order a new thermostat for that, for anyone interested you can get one from Amazon for $6 and change plus shipping.
 

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I will find you. And I will kill you.
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Discussion Starter #978
Installed the QMAX thermostat housing, all told it took me about three hours start to finish. I got lucky with the gasket on the old housing I was using, nothing stuck to the head so that reducing the time it took by a lot. Getting the snap ring holding the thermostat in place in the QMAX housing is a PITA. The arms on the thermostat interferred with the snap ring. I also had some trouble getting my pliers to stay in the holes of the ring, next time I do this I will get some larger posts to hold it better. Here is how it looks once in place:



There are no gaskets on the QMAX housing, they provide a small tube of gray sealant. This is used on the housing halves like so (ignore the lumpiness, this was before I smoothed it out prior to assembly):



The same sealant is used for the joint between the housing and the head, you do have to be very careful when putting that into place so as to not smudge the sealant. I left everything for a couple of days so it took a good set (also, I was sick so that helped). Filling up the system is easy with the bleed screw on the housing. You can hear the air escaping as you fill the radiator. After filling the system like that I also jacked the front end into the air and bled it further with the engine running. I did end up having a small leak from the O-ring on the new temperature sensor, I replaced that with an aluminum washer which is what you get from Mazda. The QMAX housing is very close to the configuration of the home made housing I have been using, see these pictures:





I have still been having a CEL come on, frequency has gotten worse. I tried changing the cam position sensor with no change. Yesterday when I went to go for a drive she would start but then die immediately. Today I decided to try installing the new crank angle sensor I bought. While pulling things apart I found one of the wires for the IACV connector was broken.



Figured that was likely the reason for the engine dying after starting. Got my spare engine harness and cut off the connector, then spliced it onto the installed engine harness to take care of that little problem. Got the crank sensor installed and started her up, after running for a few minutes the CEL came back on. Went ahead and buttoned everything back up. Have been thinking about other possibilities causing the CEL so I put my head underneath the dash and looked at the wiring for the MS. Moved some around and looked for bad connections but nothing was apparent. Went for a drive, lo and behold the CEL never came on. Guess I'll be pulling out the MS harness as much as I can to see what might be bad.


I also pulled the driver's front shock with an eye towards installing the Maruha extended tophat, but the hole on it is a lot larger than the shaft on the Ohlins, so I'll have to do some figuring on how I can mate the two together.
 

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Finally PICS! ;) Glad you located the broken wire and hopefully it fixed the dying issue for good. Perhaps I missed it but what is the CEL code?
 

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I will find you. And I will kill you.
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Discussion Starter #980
Finally PICS! ;) Glad you located the broken wire and hopefully it fixed the dying issue for good. Perhaps I missed it but what is the CEL code?

Megasquirt so no codes. Reverant never gave me what problems he has the CEL illuminate for (I do know when it flashes it's for overheating).


Went to a local C&C yesterday. I still love this car.


 
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