ClubRoadster.net banner

1 - 20 of 36 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
66 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
just as it says how would you do it?

for reliable power. (nothing too monstrous / just enough to get around faster than most other people )

from point a to z

thanks in advance gents

cheers
 

·
CR.net Supporter
Joined
·
1,390 Posts
put a greddy kit on
add intercooler/piping
add blow off valve
add larger fuel pump walbro 190hp
add megasquirt
add 2.5" exhaust
add mbc boost to 10 psi

you have overkill for 200ish hp.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
262 Posts
turbored has got it.

Also, see my sig. :)
 

·
CR.net Supporter
Joined
·
228 Posts
What I am doing with my '92 is just a regular engine re-build. (to stock)

Some people think this is overkill.

Well do you have any oil leaks? I did

Also the oil rings where cloged among other small issues.

Do not forget these 1.6's are 14 to 17 year old engines.

But I am also going to be running 12 to 14 PSI. (200 to 240 whp)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,340 Posts
What should i do to strengthened the motor to make it can take the new found power?
What's your budget?

Most guys going the ghetto Greddy route treat the motor as disposable.
Compleatly false statement. The Greddy kit is for the tuner who wants FI but doesnt have the 5K to buy a ready made kit from a rediculously over priced company or the knowlage to create a DIY kit. I wouldnt call it Ghetto. Cheap and upgradable is more like it. The base Greddy kit, with a 2.5" exhaust, Downpipe, BOV, a timing contoller and MBC and you will have it. Greddy owners dont treat motors as disposable. Mine is still running as strong as ever with no sign or plan of giving up soon.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
66 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
i was wondering if there were any motor internals i could upgrade

pistons possibly ?

I never really thought that spending 1000$+ on a kit would be considered ghetto either.
 

·
CR.net Supporter
Joined
·
228 Posts
No upgrading to the motor is required if you will be under 220 WHP.

Clutch / Flywheel should be upgraded YES

Upgrade to a Torsen Dif highly recomended.
 
M

·
Guest
Joined
·
0 Posts
.anthony said:
i was wondering if there were any motor internals i could upgrade, pistons possibly ?
Technically, rods are more critical than pistons for building a strong bottom end. But fresh rings seated against a fresh bore are going to hold boost better than an old motor. While you have the motor apart it makes sense to upgrade everything.

My perception from years on these forums is that when people are spending ~$2000 for a turbo kit on a ~$2000 car, that they aren't too willing to spend the $5000+ it costs to build a strong bottom end and do head work. They tend to consider the engine as disposable and gamble that if they blow it up, they'll replace it with another $500 salvaged motor.

On the other hand, some of us are focused on building a bullet-proof motor so we don't have to keep changing it. That costs a lot.

Just two different philosophies...

.anthony said:
I never really thought that spending 1000$+ on a kit would be considered ghetto either.
I didn't mean to start an argument here. I apologize for using the term "ghetto," re: Greddy kits. That was probably too harsh. I'm all for DIY and I agree that the FM and BEGI $5000 turbo kits are way overpriced for what you get.

My point is, when people say the Greddy turbo kit is "$1000," it's naively oversimplifying, like the recent thread about the $300 CF hardtop that will cost way over $1000 before you get it over here from China and buy all the needed hardware to mount it on your car.

From what I've observed, most Greddy owners end up replacing or modifying most of the parts that come in the kit. To enable the Greddy to (safely) run a substantial amount of boost and to tune it properly, if you buy the needed parts new (metal head gasket, intercooler, plumbing, injectors, ECU, etc.) you'll be spending much closer to those $5000 kits than you originally expected. Maybe not $5000, but way more than $2000.

My Y.02
 

·
CR.net Supporter
Joined
·
228 Posts
A friend is running the GReedy kit on his NA and with all the upgrade he has done he is close to running a FM II and this his next upgrade manifold / down pipe he will be close to the new BEGi kit.

I asked him what will be left from the original kit with the next upgrades. He said "nothing will be left".
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
877 Posts
i was wondering if there were any motor internals i could upgrade

pistons possibly ?

I never really thought that spending 1000$+ on a kit would be considered ghetto either.
A b6 motor with 100% stock internals is fine. Anyone running a turbo here or on .net will tell you the same. Just make sure the motor is in good condition.. no major leaks, and good compression, etc. Oh, and I wouldn't necessarily call the Greddy kit ghetto, but it is the cheapest and easiest way of going turbo. There are much better kits available, but it sounds like you need to do some homework if you are really interested in going F/I.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
66 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
Thanks a lot gents
very informative
i come from the world of 240s and what not
this is a little new to me
i just didn't want to go over board in fixing my bottom end up the same way i would build a ka-t

now my next question will seem ghetto
but im only asking this because it was a viable option for which i took advantage of on my 240 , and i enjoyed the spoils of said decision

why couldn't i just weld my diff instead of upgrading to a torsen.

and there is a local road racer here who has a mazda speed gear he said he can drop into my diff
he said it will react just like a 2-way/welded diff
would this be considered a stronger rear end ?

or should i just go torsen ?
 

·
CR.net Supporter
Joined
·
228 Posts
If you have a 1.6 motor the car came with a 6" rear end.

They are not stong enough for anything more than stock power. One friend has been throug 3 Dif's on a stock 1.6.

You may want to try the welding on a 7" open dif from a 1.8 car (+ '94) it may work.

For your info a Torsen is now going for apx $ 850.00 (U.S.).

Also the LSD sold by OBX that fit in the 1.6 dif are no stonger than the stock unit.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,110 Posts
step one, decide on a goal
step two, go to miataturbo.net
step three, profit.

seriously I started my turbo 1.6 yesterday, started and idle on the first crank. 100% from the info and advice from miataturbo.net.

built my parts list there, built my harness based on diagrams I found there, every question I had answered 100% correctly, and all from experience.

1.6 diff is made of suck. I blew mine on stock power...

and dont worry about being ghetto... If you want the cleanest engine bay and a kit thats totally fine to dont get me wrong, I just get sick of the "ricer" and "ghetto" worries...

"If its ugly and works, then it works."
 

·
Supporting Member
Joined
·
12,259 Posts
I agree with Sid. Too many people get into doing a turbo Miata without any understanding of their ultimate goal. miataturbo.net is probably the best place to start. As you learn you will be able to fine tune your requirements. Do you want to stay with a fixed budget or is it flexible over time? Do you want to set it and forget it or do you want to continuously tinker and upgrade trying to maximize output? If you drive hard a 1.6 diff is living on borrowed time.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,110 Posts
freedom brings up a good point to, if you like to tinker and work (me) DIY is fun, but if you dont like that, a greddy is low cost and pretty cut and dry. you can install the kit and forget it and gain 30-50hp depending on little things.
 
1 - 20 of 36 Posts
Top