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Discussion Starter #1
Ok so like the title says I need a clutch. Im sure this question has been asked. I noticed mine starting to slip on my way home today. So my question is what is the best replacement? Should i also get a lightened flywheel, shave mine down or leave it alone. What is your opinion/experience? Please keep in mind that I plan on going FI in the near future.


Thanx

P.S. Next question. Is something like this crap? Or could it actually be good?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/MAZDA-MIATA-1-6L-STAGE-2-RACING-CLUTCH-KIT-380HP_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33730QQihZ002QQitemZ120110415329QQrdZ1
 

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If you never plan on going FI then many find that OEM stock replacements are perfectly suitable. Stock clutch should also be okay for up to a 50 shot of N2O. Your standard 1.8L clutch/flywheel assembly has more surface area and more torque and thermal capacity than a comparable 1.6L setup but weighs more and costs more. Everybody has their favorite brand of clutch. You've got your ACT supporters and your Clutchnet fans. What's your budget? If you've got the money go for a lightened flywheel. If not, then you can resurface your existing flywheel. This may or may not be a problem depending on who's doing the work (you or a shop) and whether the Miata is your only car (how much downtime can you afford?) You might also want to do all the other little things while you have your gearbox out like new rear main seal, new tranny seals, replacement caps for blocked off coolant lines, new clutch hydraulics, etc. Also your exhaust is going to be a PITA to remove if it is original.

I'm not very happy with my ACT's low engagement point. It is easy to recommend stock and Clutchnet. For generic advice I'd say stick with a full-face disc made of organic friction material and a sprung hub. You'll know if you need anything more than that.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Yeah I will deffinately replace all bearings and seals while I am in there thats a given. Im just undecided what clutch is best. And i do plan on going FI.
 

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What do you mean by "best"? That is a very subjective term. When do you plan to go FI? Do you have a particular kit in mind or are you planning to DIY? What's your estimated power/torque output? There are only so many different ways to make a clutch. Generally, the higher the torque rating (higher thermal capacity and clamping force) the less comfortable it will be for street use due to higher pedal effort and rapid engagement. If you want to stop now and not think any further get a Clutchnet organic clutch disc with sprung hub and a yellow performance level pressure plate. Otherwise you can read millions of pages of reviews and opinions that will teach you that choosing a clutch is all about which compromises you're willing to make.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I mean best as in best for my needs. I drive my car 3-4 tims a week and put around 50 miles a day when I do. As far as FI, I havent decided if I wand to supercharge or turbo. More than likely supercharge though. Either way I am only intrested in being in the 200hp range. That said, that clutch disc you showed me is for the 1.8L engine, can I use that on my 1.6L with the 1.6L pressure plate you showed me.

Thanx
 

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The 1.8L size clutch has a slightly larger diameter. To fit one to a 1.6L car you would need to match it to a 1.8L size flywheel and pressure plate. That's no bid deal if you're planning on upgrading to a lightweight flywheel at the same time. The reason I caution against the ACT is because of the low engagement point due to what I suspect is their pressure plate offset or the amount of marcel on their HD pressure plate.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Ok awesome , so with my future plans on mind is the clutch and pressure plate you showed me addecuate? On that website they show green,yellow and red levels. Which do I need to handle 200hp?
 

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I figured if you're easy on the car (no drag race auto-x stoplight style launches) the organic disc should be fine. But after further research on Miata.net (great resource BTW) it seems that most are going with the either the carbon fiber or kevlar clutch disc with the "yellow" PP. People are also happy with Spec Stage2+. Hard to go wrong with either.
 

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i've read that the spec clutches do not hold up well to hard driven turbo cars. the kevlar doesn't seem to handle it too well and they slip after a couple hard launches.
 

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i've read that the spec clutches do not hold up well to hard driven turbo cars. the kevlar doesn't seem to handle it too well and they slip after a couple hard launches.
only really applicable to the 1.6 clutch for some reason. there's been no reports of it affecting the 1.8....
 

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i've read that the spec clutches do not hold up well to hard driven turbo cars. the kevlar doesn't seem to handle it too well and they slip after a couple hard launches.
This may be coincidental because I've never read anyone else having this issue, but I put a stage 1 Spec clutch in my WRX along with an Exedy flywheel. I had really bad clutch shudder during hte break in period and get occassional slipping when backing into my driveway. I also have a weird rattling in my transmission area since the install, but according to one of the mod-friendly Subaru dealerships a lightweight flywheel will tend to wear around the bearing or wear the bearing weird in WRX's.
 
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