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Well I thought I was going to be out of the miata scene for a while since I parted with my blue turbo miata. But today I got a great deal on miata I picked up a 1997 R package with a jackson racing supercharger But the bad thing is that it has a bad water pump and it had been sitting for 3 years but it runs great now that I put new gas and tune up. But well I know a lot about turbo systems but not to much about superchargers could someone help me out on this. I want to know how many psi is the stock kit supposed to make and how it all works with the ecu timing and other things.
 

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Clappin' dem cheeks!
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5psi I believe on stock kit. As for engine management I forget what jackson uses.
 

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Em depends on the kit. Early ones hada biger pump and intake regulator. Later ons had a piggyback powercard. Even lter models had a tuneable powercard pro I think.
The bypass valve tends to wear out unless you keep it greased.
Smaller pulley an get you 8-10psi.
Its fun, mpg can stay stock depending on ems.
 

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Deez Nuts
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Centrifugal Supercharger Yes, and most likey they use a bypass valve that re-circulate. Twin root/Screw No. People have put BOV on Twin roots before but it's a waste of time if you only want the phssssssss noise. I had a M45 Jackson Racing Supercharger kit on my 94 and add a HKS SSQV and that was a mistake. The Bypass valve turn the BOV in to a suck off valve. The car would not start.
 

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Centrifugal Supercharger Yes, and most likey they use a bypass valve that re-circulate. Twin root/Screw No. People have put BOV on Twin roots before but it's a waste of time if you only want the phssssssss noise. I had a M45 Jackson Racing Supercharger kit on my 94 and add a HKS SSQV and that was a mistake. The Bypass valve turn the BOV in to a suck off valve. The car would not start.
You have to leave the throttle body in the OEM location to use a BOV. Of course it wouldn't work if you left it in the default JRSC setup.
 

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there was a kit that used two throttle bodies one in the oem location and one before the supercharger. you would need to use a bov in that type of situation.

if you left the throttle body in the oem location you would have trouble with building boost when you downshift and what not. which is stupid and causes problems. the best place is where right before the supercharger, which is where the kit puts it.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Ohhh okay well thanks for the help, Now I have another question Im pulling the supercharger off to drain the oil and put new oil in does anyone know the exact amount it takes and will GM supercharger oil work fine?
 

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Get 2 bottles. It takes just over one bottle.
That control box is not for fuel. So more than likely u have the "pill" in the tank that just raises the fuel pressure. I have the directions somewheres....
 

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the box is just a knock sensor.
 

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You still have the stock ECU. The blue box is a knock sensor / engine safety item.

I have a J&S also with the optional dual display that shows AFR and how much timing is being pulled out. The J&S isn't engine management, it retards timing under boost to prevent detonation and engine damage.

The J&S listens to the motor using a Saturn knock sensor screwed on the intake side of the block near the oil filter. When it hears knock it pulls timing out (retards it) in 2 degree increments until it doesn't hear the knock anymore then puts it back in. It can be set to retard all cylinders together or each cylinder separately. It can also detect a tank of bad gas pretty easily.

The J&S was around $450 back in the day and the optional AFR and knock display added another $150. I think it was considered a top knock anti-knock solution because it is active and closed loop (listens for it and adjust cylinder by cylinder). Other knock solutions retard the timing based on boost weather there is knock or not, so with the J&S you are getting the most power you can get based on conditions. Lower ambient temperatures and better fuel result in less knock and more power under boost.

The other thingie you should have somewhere is a 3" diameter UFO underhood called an AFPR or auxiliary fuel pressure regulator. Do you?

PS if this explanation sounds really super old school its because I am. All my speed stuff is obsolete and pushing 13 years old but it all works perfectly.
 

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I <3 NY & Hate you
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The other thingie you should have somewhere is a 3" diameter UFO underhood called an AFPR or auxiliary fuel pressure regulator. Do you?

PS if this explanation sounds really super old school its because I am. All my speed stuff is obsolete and pushing 13 years old but it all works perfectly.
He doesnt necessarily have to have that, he may have a powercard...which would be located near the ECU or in the glove box area.
 
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