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Mufasa in Training
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31,615 Posts
I was fine with the NA depowered on 225’s, but I want to try power steering in this one. I’m also keeping AC since some of the tracks are hours away so nah... just keeping it... for now.
Oh, I kept the AC in mine. I just didn't like the NB's PS compared to the NA. Too light.
 

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First Things First I'm The Realist
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7,902 Posts
Discussion Starter #842
Just to impress everyone, I only painted the ends where I worked on the arms. It's not ghetto... not at all...



I notched or drilled all of the bushings like most people seem to recommend. It was... messy.



The first 2. Started with a set that are straight through instead of halves.



And each corner now has a small pile of arms waiting for install. Hopefully that happens tonight.



I also hit the long bolts with some scotch brite just to clean them up a bit. (after/before)



And I pulled this off the shelf. It won't be a project for now, but maybe this fall. These parts all came in a paper bag when I bought my car, lol.





That's all for now... hopefully we'll be wheels down REAL soon.
 

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First Things First I'm The Realist
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7,902 Posts
Discussion Starter #845
Better hurry before summer is actually over!

Bad idea: starting your winter projects in May or June.

Alignment is scheduled for Tuesday. Still have to snug eccentrics, install sway bar, bolt up brakes, and check ride height. I got this.
 

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3,243 Posts
Bad idea: starting your winter projects in May or June.

Alignment is scheduled for Tuesday. Still have to snug eccentrics, install sway bar, bolt up brakes, and check ride height. I got this.
That's what I did this year. :lol:

You're so close. Do itttttt
 

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1000% Jake
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4,360 Posts
I had really good luck getting the bushings out with the threaded rod and washer stacks. It's easy not to bend anything if you use heat judiciously.

Basically, run the threaded rod through the control arm, get some tension on the bushing you are removing, just enough to distort it in one direction. Maybe a couple turns on the threaded rod. Then, heat the outside of the control arm with a torch. The outside of the bushing should just barely start to smoke. Work your way around the control arm, don't overheat the bushing. After a minute or so it will pop free. Then it will slide out like butter.

Wear welding gloves.
 

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First Things First I'm The Realist
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7,902 Posts
Discussion Starter #848
Well well well... made it out of the garage.



Sexy... kinda.



Got it aligned. That was the least camber they could do in the rear and about the most in one side up front. The rear would be 1/2" higher but the collars are froze. Once that's fixed it'll be closer to my spec. Might dial in another couple tenths up front, might just leave it and tune with sway and rear height if I'm not happy.





Ignore the before. Literally just threw in the arms and suspension, pointed them sorta straight, and drove it a mile to the shop.

My old wheel and QR installed. Not 100% sure I'll run my old shifter but my dad made it so it'll stay for a bit.



Cleaned up the old AEM. Yikes.



Filed the corners of my hardtop where it hits my roll bar. That's normal, right? People do this?



And then **** got... shitty. Really really shitty.


Initially thought it was lean and pinging because the EGR wasn't on right. Nope. Guessing it's a wrist pin bushing. Might be a spun bearing. I'm not a mechanic.

...and while I lack those skills, I am bad with money. So I bought this. Yolo.



Picking up an FM midpipe tonight. Then I'll mull over what I want to do when the new motor comes in. Probably just TB/WP and maybe seals. Someone suggested oil pump but don't think I'll have the cams to see the revs to make it matter. I have a coolant reroute on the shelf but not sure I need it. Might just keep recouping funds by selling it.

Ugh... time to dig out of a hole...
 

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First Things First I'm The Realist
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7,902 Posts
Discussion Starter #851
The motor came in on 9/9, 39 days after I paid. I knew it would take a few weeks to be shipped, but once it was on the way it only took about a week.

Crate looks ok.

Untitled by 99blkx, on Flickr

I was a bit shocked to see that the motor was only secured to the pallet with 2 plastic straps. The kind you normally see around cardboard boxes for heavy items.

Untitled by 99blkx, on Flickr

The water neck gouging the side shows you how much motion in the ocean there was.

Untitled by 99blkx, on Flickr

Broken cam sensor. Yossi said they'll send me a new one. I need to go over the motor for any other issues before I have him send it. A couple bits of the wiring harness were a little pinched but looks ok so far.

Untitled by 99blkx, on Flickr

Finally had time to get the picker up and the crate off. I took one side off, slid it over, and then took it apart.

Untitled by 99blkx, on Flickr

Hangin free as a barn swallow.

Untitled by 99blkx, on Flickr

I wouldn't say this crate was built by a carpenter, lol. The random assortment of hardware is my favorite part.

Untitled by 99blkx, on Flickr

Untitled by 99blkx, on Flickr

Popped the clutch and flywheel off. Definitely gonna do the rear main. I see plenty of scrubbing in my future. Also enough rust residue in the coolant hoses that I'll want to flush it well.

Untitled by 99blkx, on Flickr

All tucked in for now. Turns out I didn't have an extra set of bellhousing bolts laying around. I'll snag some hardware tomorrow and get it on the stand. Stupid small town hardware store closed early on Sunday.

Untitled by 99blkx, on Flickr

Also had a buddy listen to the car today. He's convinced it's nothing major and, if anything, in the head. I'm still going through with the swap. The internet has proven the VVT motor is the best way to make power all over. I'll probably just pull the head and look things over. Waiting to get my Blackstone results back. Hopefully it's all well and good so I can sell it and buy a Megasquirt...
 

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First Things First I'm The Realist
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7,902 Posts
Discussion Starter #857
What is the advantage of using a JDM VVT engine over a US VVT, other than the square top? Genuinely curious as I don't know the differences.

Well...

Free squaretop and easy to find for cheap.

Yep. This was $950 shipped to my door (caught the tail end of a group buy). There wasn’t another 99+ motor for sale in my area. The last few were $1,000-$1,200 and I’d have to drive a few hours to get them.

There is a Japanese motor importer nearby but they wanted $1900. **** that. **** that real hard.

UK climate is hard on the appearance of the VC and IM and such so they need some cleanup.
 

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424 Posts
Well...




Yep. This was $950 shipped to my door (caught the tail end of a group buy). There wasn’t another 99+ motor for sale in my area. The last few were $1,000-$1,200 and I’d have to drive a few hours to get them.

There is a Japanese motor importer nearby but they wanted $1900. **** that. **** that real hard.

UK climate is hard on the appearance of the VC and IM and such so they need some cleanup.
Cool. Good to know. I bought a flattop from the UK pretty cheap also. Bead blasted and clear coated and now it looks great!
 

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Mufasa in Training
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31,615 Posts
Cool. Good to know. I bought a flattop from the UK pretty cheap also. Bead blasted and clear coated and now it looks great!
I don't know why, but I have no desire even if painted for the engine components (valve cover, intake manifold, etc) to be smooth to the touch. I just prefer them to be somehow textured.
 

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I don't know why, but I have no desire even if painted for the engine components (valve cover, intake manifold, etc) to be smooth to the touch. I just prefer them to be somehow textured.
I agree. Mine still has the textured cast aluminum look. I just sprayed a matte clear to keep the aluminum from oxidizing.


I kinda wish I had left my valve cover like this and just clear coated it. Bead blasted, letters polished.
 
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