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Discussion Starter #1
Hi!

Just curious where are the rest of the owners that bought the above kit? Have you guys installed the kit yet and how is it running?

I have just driven the car for 1 day and the main issues I am facing is that the throttle feel seems less responsive than before especially when tapping on it gently to rev match. The throttle seems to lag at lower rpms (idle to around 3000) thus I am unable to mash the pedal to the floor when accelerating as the car will bog before shooting off the line like a rocket.

Also, it seems the ITBs have changed the resonance frequency of my cabin so I am hearing new rattling sounds from my dash which I will have to hunt down and insulate with foam :)

So far fuel consumption seems as before but it is still early days. Love the sound and feel of the car above 3000rpm. Don't think it is an issue to daily drive it!
 

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brontosaurus
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I take you are running the megasquirt map that rev9 offered up to make these near plug and play with the megasquirt, correct? A base line tune is just that, it's to get you running. There is no such thing as a plug and play map when it comes to ITBs and a megasquirt on a miata. Every engine is different. I hope this was made known to you all.

It sounds to me like it's not a good tune for your engine, or something isn't reading right. Could you post up your .msq? Datalog a couple pulls down the street too. This will give everyone all the information they should need to diagnose your problem. Also, is it making any odd noises other than the resonance?

Could you also take pictures of the setup from a couple different angles?

Where did you mount the IAT?

Is your TPS calibrated properly? Are your sensors seeing the correct voltages?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks for the reply! I am not running MS. Am running Hydra v2.5 tuned on a dynapack.

Will post pictures of my setup later. IAT mounted on the backing plate of the filter beside velocity stack #1. TPS calibrated properly as far as I know, cheers!
 

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Wow, what else is done to your setup? is it a completely stock block making 150whp? I havent searched for your build thread as of yet, but post up a link if you have one. And what is this map that Rev9 has posted? Where can I find it?

Amazing looking setup! Well done.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I have a build thread but never posted on CR.net before. Will do so later with some updated photos taken earlier.

My engine is a B6 with FM Wiseco high comp pistons, HKS mild cams and a GTX 323 block essentially. I can't sawp engine or go F/I as such mods are illegal and one can be fined or jailed for such offenses! :/ Fortunately ITBs are considered an air intake mod (go figure!) so I can pass my annual inspection without issues :)
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I recalled it was supposedly not possible to fit the Carbing shock tower brace with if the Jenvey sausage filter was used. I have now proved it is possible :)

 

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Nice setup. I was going to buy one but I bought and built my DIYPNP Megasquirt box first and my supercharged car is running so much better with the standalone that I am just keeping the blower instead of losing the power by going to IRTBs.

I would suggest that your issues down low in the rev range can be fixed by tuning. You can do it on the road with some know-how or on a steady-state dyno. I don't know anything about Hydra but there is a tuning forum for it on miataturbo.net.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
^^My car was actually S/C (M45) when I bought it from the previous owner but I was having lots of issues with overheating during hot days and start/stop traffic plus it is highly illegal where I am located.

My car was tuned by a proficient Hydra tuner but it seems this issue I am facing is not an ECU problem but has something to do with the throttle body diameter (42mm)? I think I should start learning how to DIY tune but the Hydra interface makes it difficult!

In any case, I am adjusting my driving style to blip the throttle twice to rev-match and that seems to work. Still can't mash the pedal to the ground thoughm have to do the two step :)
 

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brontosaurus
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Have you replaced the timing belt, checked the timing, and properly synced the timing to the ECU?

Also not related, but do you just run your PCV valve to the atmosphere? I've never seen it not routed somewhere or blocked off. I'm not sure of the problems that could cause.

Very nice numbers, glad to see more 1.6s making power.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
^^Timing belt not due yet, another 20,000 km to my major servicing. Hmm...I did not do the tuning myself as it is way beyond my meagre abilities :D Will get the timing checked.

As for the PCV, I have really no idea what to do? How would you hook it up? From PCV >> Catch can >> ??

I am happy with the gains and will most likely not touch the engine again. Too much work and $$$ just to eke out the ponies but due to legislation, this is the safest method in my situation :)
 

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brontosaurus
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I'd run it to a catch. As far as I know there aren't really any negatives to running it like that, just it could possibly make a mess.

As far as timing goes, you have HKS cams, which ones? Do you have adjustable cam gears? The stock gears could be at less then optimal settings due to the cam change. Usually cam gears are required to properly index the cams. You should ask around to have your cams properly "indexed". If you can't do the work, most shops will charge 100-200 to properly index your cams with adjustable cam gears. Indexing the cams is when they optimize the valve opening for the pistons position. Most shops that do engine builds should be able to do this easily. From your description is sounds like you have symptoms similar to when people do timing belts and are a tooth off.
 

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Like your build a lot. Pretty much exactly what I'm wanting to do and about the gains I'd expect. Hopefully you can get your problems sorted out and get it running tip top. I couldn't really say that not having the PCV system hooked up would cause a bog that bad at lower RPM, but then again I've seen some really minor crap do some really weird things. And I don't know too much about cam indexing but it sounds like it may help. Agree with the fact that it sounds like it could just be a timing issue.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I am not sure how to run a catch can in this case. Typically the catch can would be PCV >> CC >> intake manifold. However in this case, where would the CC be connected to after the PCV?

I have seen that for some ITB setups, both the PCV and breather ports on the valve cover goes into the same catch can that has a breather filter mounted. Is this the right way to do so?


My HKS cams are mild 256 duration ones. I am running Toda cam gears. Will check on this indexing issue, thanks!


I'd run it to a catch. As far as I know there aren't really any negatives to running it like that, just it could possibly make a mess.

As far as timing goes, you have HKS cams, which ones? Do you have adjustable cam gears? The stock gears could be at less then optimal settings due to the cam change. Usually cam gears are required to properly index the cams. You should ask around to have your cams properly "indexed". If you can't do the work, most shops will charge 100-200 to properly index your cams with adjustable cam gears. Indexing the cams is when they optimize the valve opening for the pistons position. Most shops that do engine builds should be able to do this easily. From your description is sounds like you have symptoms similar to when people do timing belts and are a tooth off.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
^^Eh wait, excuse my lack of comprehension.

Are you saying you are running a pipe/hose each from the breather and PCV outlet to the same oil catch can that has a built-in filter venting to the atmosphere?
 

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I always thought with a catch can u wanted the breather and the pcv hooked to the can then manifold vacuum hook to the can as well to help the pcv system operate normally. Correct if im wrong tho.
 

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The breather on the right hand side of the engine ensure that only clean air enters the crankcase.

The vacuum that is normally applied to the PCV valve from the intake manifold actually closes the valve. Without this vacuum source the valve is always open and flowing.

Problem is a whole lot gunk tends to come out of the PCV as well, so one runs a catch can after the PCV valve to catch all the crud. After the catch can you are just left with the fumes from the crankcase.

This is how my mechanic explained it anyway, I could have interpreted things incorrectly
 

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Discussion Starter #20
^^So based on this, on the right side of the engine, a breather filter should be installed to ensure that filtered air enters the valve cover.

As there is no longer a vacuum source due to the absence of the intake manifold, the PCV valve can be removed and a hose directly connecting to this location will be hooked up to a oil catch can and then vented to atmosphere yes?
 
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