[BREADwagon]

Hello all!

I have a couple of questions about the Jenvey ITB kit. I have the rev9 kit with IAC 4 port block, throttle linkage, fuel rail, and sausage filter with backing plate. I'm running on a MSPNP2 on my 1992 1.6 NA.

1.) IAC:
First and foremost, is anyone here running IAC?

The kit came with this vacuum block: http://www.jenvey.co.uk/home/access...dynamics/air-control-valve-kit-4-ports-avk2t2Air-control-valve-kit 4-ports-avk2t2
This accepts a 19mm tube, so I figure I could plumb tubing to it. The valve I was thinking about using is the 'Idle Air Control Body for use with Jeep 4.0l IAC Valve' from diyautotune and use the proper stepper valve. I would mount the block somewhere, and run the intake from the back of the sausage filter plate, and the output to the 4 port block. Am I on the right track? Any pointers for MSPNP2 IAC settings in this application?

2.) Assorted Hardware for installation:
So I read that the stock block has a couple of studs that hold the intake manifold on. These have to be swapped for bolts to fit the manifold. What are the OEM bolts and how many do I need to get?

3.) Vacuum block:
I love STOLY's setup with the golden eagle vacuum block mounted to the old washer bottle bracket and I'm going to copy the $#!^ out of it.
What stainless steel lines are these (size etc)? What size tap to the bottom of the manifold, and what hardware/fittings are used all around?

4.) Brake Booster:
So I'll tap the top of the 4th or 3rd cyl manifold for the brake booster. What size tap/fittings/tubing is recommended?

5.) MSPNP first start:
Once everything is hooked up, all I need to do is set Control Algorithm to ITB then start it up (on base 1.6 map with LC-1 wideband selected)? I'd log the data and carefully work my way up at different loads/speeds to edit my itb load switchpoints. I still need to do some heavy reading on the msextra site, but I figure I'd put it out there to get some pointers/direction.

I have many more questions, but I'll let this stew for a bit.

Thanks, and hopefully I can help CR as much as it has helped me!

 

[devski]

Hello all!



2.) Assorted Hardware for installation:
So I read that the stock block has a couple of studs that hold the intake manifold on. These have to be swapped for bolts to fit the manifold. What are the OEM bolts and how many do I need to get?

3.) Vacuum block:
I love STOLY's setup with the golden eagle vacuum block mounted to the old washer bottle bracket and I'm going to copy the $#!^ out of it.
What stainless steel lines are these (size etc)? What size tap to the bottom of the manifold, and what hardware/fittings are used all around?

4.) Brake Booster:
So I'll tap the top of the 4th or 3rd cyl manifold for the brake booster. What size tap/fittings/tubing is recommended?


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These are the only 3 I can help you with. I did not require any more bolts or studs on my 1.8 NB. The new manifold bolted straight on. The manifold was drilled and tapped with 1/4 BSPT (Im in australia) however if you are in America use a 1/4in NPT thread. Once you've had it drilled and tapped you will need to find a hose and fittings specialist. Walk in with your manifold, tell them its tapped for 1/4npt and that you are running vacuum lines. They will sort out the rest. If you want SS lines make sure you let them know.

With the brake booster I also got it tapped at 1/4inch. Im thinking anything bigger than that might thin the manifold out too much and cause it to be prone to cracking in the future. Take a measurement of the internal diameter of your brake booster hose, or take it in with you to the Hose fitters. They will find a 1/4 inch fitting to match your hose diameter.

Hope this helps.

Jamie

 

[BREADwagon]

Thanks for the info. I may have figured out the gameplan.

Tap the bottom dimples to 1/8" NPT. Use NPT to AN -4 fitting. I was thinking about using the 1/4" like you mentioned, but then I'd have to use AN-6 tubing/fittings which I think are too big to fit on the bottom dimples.
I'm going to get probably 10 feet or so of -4AN Earl's Pro-lite ultra tubing, and -4 swivel fittings (which Earl's surprisingly doesn't make).
Pretty much all vacuum blocks (I ended up getting the BLOX block) have 6 1/8"NPT fittings, and 2 3/4" fittings.
I never knew you can make your own hose to length using AN fittings...I also never knew it is so expensive. I priced it out, and it would cost about $150 for all the fittings, NPT to AN adapters and hose.

I could just get an NPT to barbed fitting for the ITB manifold since the BLOX block comes with barbed fittings, but I like the clean AN look with nylon braided line. And plus, I am definitely going to use the same hose type (with the appropriate size) and AN fittings for my fuel system which I have yet to develop... but again, it is around $150 as apposed to $40 max for normal vacuum tube.



Can I tap into my main MAP vacuum block for Brake booster out of one Large end, and for PCV/catch can throguh the other? I see that some people mention this may cause spikes/drops in pressure which will make the MAP sensor unhappy. Does this have any validity to it?