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Aero Master
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2,238 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Introducing one of the few properly designed oil catch cans on the market! Unlike others, this oil catch can is designed to work on cars with ITBs, forced induction, or traditional NA! this oil catch can features 2 chambers; a vented chamber for the fresh air intake port of the valve cover, and a closed chamber for the manifold side. Utilizing the PCV concept, this oil catch can will ensure no oil makes it to the intake valves. The result is cleaner air, and less carbon buildup. Other properly designed oil catch cans (take Mishimotos for example) are quite expensive, but we are offering ours for $280 + 12 shipping in the cont. US (USPS flat rate). It is still a bit more expensive than others out there, but you get what you pay for! The amount of work to properly weld and bend this (notice it is made of only 3 pieces of aluminum, not 6) are why the cost is high. Here is a breakdown of what makes our oil catch can unique:

  • 2 chambers in 1 can
  • Properly designed to work with all cars
  • Utilizes the car's original PCV system
  • Drain at the bottom, can be plumbed into oil pan
  • Both chambers baffled correctly
  • Will come with hardware and 10 ft of reinforced rubber hose, and routing diagrams for ITB, NA, FI
Production units will have a KSE logo tag and the forward port facing the valve cover.




-Henry
 

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Lonely White Girl
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5,739 Posts
The catch can catches nasty vapors, fuel particles, general **** you don't want in your engine oil. Draining back to the oil pan is simply for convenience and emissions purposes.

Thanks for explaining that **** guys. :)
 

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Aero Master
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2,238 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
Looks really nicely done. My question is; I've heard it isn't good to have it plumbed into the oil pan. Can you explain?


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I have not heard of any problems when draining back to the pan. All of BMWs air oil separators (and Porsche for that matter) drain back into the engine.

-Henry
 

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The colder Adam
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2,194 Posts
So how does this work with a more standard intake set up? Seems like the can is in the way of pretty much most standard intakes set ups (stock, RB, etc...). Any other mounting locations? This is very interesting to me, but my intake plumbing for my supercharger rules this out as is, sadly.
 

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Aero Master
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2,238 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
on NA's, if you are using the stock AFM, or an RB elbow, it won't work. It will work with Jackson Racing intake, AEM, and any cold side. On NB's pretty much every intake works. For turbo'd cars, it depends on where the intake is routed. I agree, on any SC car it will not work.

-Henry
 

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Registered
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2,376 Posts
on NA's, if you are using the stock AFM, or an RB elbow, it won't work. It will work with Jackson Racing intake, AEM, and any cold side. On NB's pretty much every intake works. For turbo'd cars, it depends on where the intake is routed. I agree, on any SC car it will not work.

-Henry
Interesting point, for an NB would the only thing that needs to move be the washer bottle?
 

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Lonely White Girl
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5,739 Posts
I have not heard of any problems when draining back to the pan. All of BMWs air oil separators (and Porsche for that matter) drain back into the engine.

-Henry
That's for emissions reasons/no car manufacturer is going to make you drain your own catch can. Catch can vapors are nasty. Fuel, condensation, general grossness. I drain mine out.
 

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Aero Master
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2,238 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
that's what I would recommend as well, but I will offer a drain back kit for those who want it.

-Henry
 

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1,119 Posts
Ive used both drain back and empty solutions on a few different builds. Manual empty sounds like a good idea until the time you forget to do it and the can is full - then the overflow all gets sucked into the intake or through a turbo/Supercharger, through the intercooler, throttle body, etc. You'd have to check the level regularly unless there is a level view I'm not seeing?

Yes, it's true there is a bunch of nasty crap in the can - more so for FI and even more so for a motor with tired ring and valve seals BUT if you use the drain back option and change your oil regularly it's really minimal impact. If you never change your oil, then yeah - you might have issues... but if you never change your oil then you probably also never empty your catch can and you have worse issues anyway.

Just the voice of experience is all. I'd recommend the drain-back option and never worry about it again after install.
 
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