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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just picked up a set of used Kirkey seats. They are the pro drag version and I'm wanting to hear from you guys how you mounted. I would like to keep the stock sliders if possible, at least on the drivers side but I'm not sure how low I'll be. I just fit under broom stick test with my OEM seat with a foamecty.
Is a bracket needed?
uploadfromtaptalk1335634232878.jpg
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I'm not sure how to do it with sliders. It's definitely possible, I just don't have experience with that. I will be taking better pictures of my mounting system the next time I take my seat out. I basically have a seat bracket that bolts the stock mounting holes in the car, then holes were drilled in the bottom of the Kirkey to bolt the seat to the brackets. Then in the rear, there is a piece of steel bolted to the mounting holes, with like two flaps sticking up, to mount to the seat. Hard to explain, I'll get better pictures sometime. Here's the pictures I do have.



 

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Had the local racing shop fab up long steel brackets, to which the seat is welded. The brackets have a through hole in the front, using the front bolts, and in the rear it has welded studs that go through the floorpan and have a nut with a spreader plate on the bottom of the car. This is for maximum lowness.

The passenger side is slightly better easier - there are aluminum pucks welded to the bottom of the seat, and those pucks are welded (bolted?) to steel strip brackets that bolt into the original 4 bolt holes.

I can put up pics tomorrow if you are interested.
 

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Iv got a sparco,and its comfy, but a year of abuse has worn it out.i know swapping the skins on kirkely's is easy. And they have good clearance, but are they comfortable?
 

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Kirkey's have to fit you very well to be comfortable. My 15" Pro Street Drag fits me PERFECTLY. I commute 120 miles a day in it, and I actually find it more comfortable than the stock seats.
 

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thanks for the info, i have a custom mount on my sparco. i still rub my helmet on my hardtop. what set up are you running? are you fixed or used sliders, along with head clearence?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Had the local racing shop fab up long steel brackets, to which the seat is welded. The brackets have a through hole in the front, using the front bolts, and in the rear it has welded studs that go through the floorpan and have a nut with a spreader plate on the bottom of the car. This is for maximum lowness.

The passenger side is slightly better easier - there are aluminum pucks welded to the bottom of the seat, and those pucks are welded (bolted?) to steel strip brackets that bolt into the original 4 bolt holes.

I can put up pics tomorrow if you are interested.
That would be great, thanks.

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I found this write up on this very simple bracket, obviously no sliders. I put the seat on the floor to see the fit and I don't see how I can still use the sliders and still be low enough. Oh well.

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Well this is how the driver's side sits in on the floor after I had to wash the covers about 3 times to try and remove the cigarette smell. The covers sat in the guys house for a while. Funny is that everything is in great shape but the just wreaked.

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sorry for asking a question to an awnser in front of me, and thanks for the new website, never heard of mazdaroadster.net. i guess i was hoping for a cheap adjustable, super low diy solution. but looks like im going kirley next and making my sparco my forza seat.
 

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Looks good Ryan. Will you be using a harness? Had I not just sold my passenger side Crow 5 pt.. I would have offered it to you for a song and a dance.
 

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I think this is the route I'm going with my nb. Full on k.I.s.s

And they are cheap

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Looks good Ryan. Will you be using a harness? Had I not just sold my passenger side Crow 5 pt.. I would have offered it to you for a song and a dance.
I probably will but I think the next pieces to finish the install before harnesses will be an IO or Autopower seat back brace. It should really make a difference in rigidity and something that I probably won't find used. Them I'll search for some harnesses. In the meantime, the factory belts look like they will fit pretty snug.

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I probably will but I think the next pieces to finish the install before harnesses will be an IO or Autopower seat back brace. It should really make a difference in rigidity and something that I probably won't find used. Them I'll search for some harnesses. In the meantime, the factory belts look like they will fit pretty snug.

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Evil Genius Racing makes seat back braces that are about half the cost ($55) of the IO/Autopower one, and just as functional. You have to call them up to buy it.

 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
My dad and I got it mounted, here's how it looks. Made the machetes with 2"x1/4" steel straps and 1"tube for front support.
uploadfromtaptalk1336681279580.jpg
W used a couple of the exuding holes in the rear, hence the trimmed washers.
uploadfromtaptalk1336681391736.jpg
Sits about as far back is it can go and low enough for me at 6,1" to clear rollbar with helmet.
uploadfromtaptalk1336681551516.jpg
 

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You said you're 6'1 so am I. Mind giving me more info on your seat? and if its not to much to ask your waist size. I just picked up a na and want a new seat for track days. How hard would it be to put in your stock seat if some one else were to drive?
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I have about a 32" waist. The seat is as far back as it could go without rubbing the rollbar. I have thin arms and I can just get my arm and wrench behind there to bolt them down. Not something I could do between autox runs but could probably do between de sessions. Someone is coming to look at them today. I keep this posted.
 
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