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Herpity Derpity
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LOL I'm getting there! I've had other financial problems to attend too before I did anything. :)

I def plan on atleast having an intake and dp before winter lets up ready to be put on in the spring. I can't make up my mind on what intake though... I really hate the look of the FM intake. But I think it's the most efficient. I like the BEgi intake the most but it's super expensive and I'm worried they'll fuckup my order the first time. I also like the AEM but it's AEM and I don't wanna be ricerish lol. I like the closed box intake though.
 

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I guess I lucked out as I picked up a new AEM intake a few months ago. It's the only carb approved one out there which is a big deal for us CA folks.
As for efficiency AEM is also pretty good. IAT's are usually ambient +5~10F unless you're sitting in traffic.
 

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Ok these are what I ended up picking up. They aren't quiet the same Denso injector MSMJohn has, but I'm assured they will work.

They are Denso 312cc Injectors from a 89-92 Toyota Supra 7mge motor (23250-70080).



I got them from an Ebay seller, they look like they will fit just fine. Though I have yet to actually get in there to install them. Will do this weekend hopefully. $70 shipped came like 2 days later. They are advertised as 320cc injectors though with some searching I found out they are not quite 320cc.





With my quick google search I found this, these are actually more around 312cc w/ 30lb/hr flow rate.

And now that I'm looking at this, these are actually listed on the Miataturbo Guide as the 7mge "light green top" injectors. So verifying my research.
 

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Those are the same I put in my 99 along with Walbro 190 pump. Ran fine na with stock everything, maybe a bit rich. Got em reconditioned up front. The m45, I/C, crank overlay, and small nose pulley will be wrapped up next week, with powercard pros. I thought their rating was based on 43 psi, not the 99's 60 psi. I'll have a WB, should help w/ diagnosing how they're flowing.
 

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Mazduh.. those 312s are what I ran, and they were great. No issues with them (though I hate dealing with fuel so the install was annoying)
 

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I found a set injectors from the OP on ebay for $20 shipped. They were in a condition to warrant the price, missing o-rings, dirty etc.

Sent them out to www.cruzinperformance.com and just got back the results tonight. Can't wait till I get them back. If anyone's curious, here are the test results.

 

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Herpity Derpity
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Nice! Remember to pull your fuel pump relay and then start the car and let it idle till stall. Otherwise things might get messy. Also be weary of the injector spacers between the rail and the injector. I accidentally dropped 2 of them and had to get under the car and pull the plastic off to get them.

Also let the car idle out for 10 minutes and give the ecu a chance to figure it's **** out.

My car didn't really settle in to the bigger injectors till about 50 miles of casual driving.
 

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Thanks for the tips. Did u disconnect the batt for the install, or did you leave it and just letter ecumenical learn the investors?

BTW, we've talked on msm forums, I'm the guy who asked you about the mishimoto ic, which I've got on the way also. I think I saw you got forbear fx1 pro, I liked those seats too, but so many posts were saying they sit higher than stock if any slides are used. Was that the case for u?
 

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I'll pm you... I don't wanna change the topic of this thread.


But no I didn't unplug my batt. As long as the fuse is unplugged you shouldn't have any issues.
 

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Just got these in tonight. Had to reset the ECU, so car's still learning them. I reset the ECU since I threw a CEL upon first startup. Turns out I forgot to plug my TPS back in...

I had a hell of time disconnecting the 3 wires coming off the back side of the fuel rail. Pretty much cut up my whole left forearm. Didn't drop a single spacer thanks to that tip about watching out for them. I crazy glued the spacers onto the fuel rail before re-installation.

My throttle cable seems a little looser after re-installation, but I had someone floor the pedal w/ the engine off, and I checked to make sure there wasn't extra play in the TB. Should I try tightening the throttle cable anyway?
 

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You crazy glued your spacers!? You know the glue might melt when the engine is hot...
 

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I couldn't figure out another way to get the fuel rail re-attached w/o dropping a spacer or 2. Shouldn't get too hot where I have them, the glue is on the side where the spacers touch the fuel rail, and even if the glue melts, the spacers won't fall out, and I used very little so I'm not worried about the glue dripping.

I am having some weird rpm stumbling when I first startup, it stumbles (jumps up and down) 1-3 times until it settles into a stable idle. I did do a TB coolant bypass at the same time, don't know if that's what causes it. So far I've put on 60 miles, upon ECU reset I had a lumpy power delivery again, but tonight i felt it smooth out over time. ECU still isn't in ready mode yet though.

I also re-tightened my throttle cable today. My friend who was helping me w/ the install accidentally over torque'd and broke one of the bolts holding the strut bar to that black plate. I spent $13 on various bolts until finding the right size, its M8-1.25 if anyone cares. Couldn't find washers the same size as stock, and stock washer dont come off the bolts, unless the bolt is snapped... I bored the stock washer out just enough to take the new bolt.
 

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Just an FYI, these 321cc injectors in the OP aren't 100% compatible with MAF relocation kits. I've downgraded to 305cc, and so far so good.

If you relocated your MAF, with say something like Joe's MAF relocation kit, avoid the 321cc. You'll throw CEL on hot days (idle too rich, bank 1). Also, down shifting from 6th-4th will cause a stutter in the acceleration around 5500, very annoying, and feels like it will harm your car if done too many times. Not to mention, you will be slower.
 

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I know this is an old thread, but I wanted to give a heads up for anyone thinking of adding the 320's with a stock ECU and non-Mazdaspeed. I have an 03 Miata NB that I added the FM Stage 1 Turbo kit to (8 PSI) and running a 2.5'' stainless Borla duals and found I was running a bit lean AFR's at idle. To try and remedy I bought the 320's to add a bit more fuel, however mine ran way to rich at idle like 10.1-10.5 AFR, smoked and kept wanting to die. I guess there is a slight difference in the stock ECU for the factory turbo'd cars vs the NA only, which is what I was afraid of. Long story short, I had to switch back to my stock 265's until I get an aftermarket ECU like a Megasquirt or Hydra. I'll need to make some adjustments to the ECU to put these 320's back in. If you don't have a factory turbo car you probably don't want to try past the 305's. In fact, if anyone has any 305's laying around they aren't using I would love to try them out to see if they work with the factory ECU. I'd be willing to trade the 320's if need be. They are supposed to be reconditioned to new per the ad (although I haven't had them bench tested to verify). At any rate, just wanted to share in case anyone ran into the same issue I did so it will save them some time/money.
 
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