miata on N20 give me your opinion.
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NOS alone isn't worth it (poop). Too complex, requires enrichment/tuning to ensure it doesn't screw up your engine, etc.
NOS as an enhancement to Miata's that already have ECU replacements/turbo/larger injectors/etc., however, rock =D> . It's a great way to reduce charge temps while increasing O2 density of the charge (NOS can act like an intercooler that way).
If you don't have the ability to flow more fuel to keep the A:F ratios right though, it's a waste of time & gamble on leaning out your engine to death.
NOS as an enhancement to Miata's that already have ECU replacements/turbo/larger injectors/etc., however, rock =D> . It's a great way to reduce charge temps while increasing O2 density of the charge (NOS can act like an intercooler that way).
If you don't have the ability to flow more fuel to keep the A:F ratios right though, it's a waste of time & gamble on leaning out your engine to death.
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12,196 Posts
I've never driven a N2O fed Miata but I wouldn't say it's worthless if you don't already have FI, standalone, or bigger injectors. I think it can be both fun and safe if you do it right. Now, whether you'll like it more than a base Greddy turbo kit or individual throttle bodies is something you'll have to decide for yourself. N2O is typically only injected at full throttle so you get an all or nothing type power delivery which is great for the drag strip (once past 1st gear) or passing on the open highway but not so good for smooth corner exit on a twisty back road.
I would avoid a "dry" system and look at either "wet" or "direct port" systems. A "wet" system uses a nozzle at the intake manifold just after the throttle that mixes both nitrous and fuel at the same time. A "direct port" system uses one nozzle for each cylinder so you get a more even distribution of fuel and nitrous which is safer for your engine. The Miata fuel rail is single feed so if you dramatically increase power levels cylinder #4 may starve for fuel since cylinders #1-3 get to drink from the fountain first. For this reason many people go to a dual feed fuel rail and/or a direct port N2O system. Most people recommend going no higher than 75 shot on a stock internals. You may also want an ignition timing controller to retard spark when injecting nitrous yet allow normal advance when not injecting so as to keep good throttle response. You've got a '95 so you've got the bigger ring gear in your differential which is good for withstanding higher power levels but your stock clutch will likely need to be replaced with a stronger unit.
Look up what Dragart_Miata or Stealth97 have to say on this subject. Just like FI you can go as simple or as fast as your budget will allow - standalone ecu, progressive controllers, upgraded fuel systems, remote bottle openers, bottle heaters, fully-built motors with forged internals, upgraded transmission, etc. The best bang/buck is probably a 50-75 wet shot and a new clutch. This will be fun and hopefully safe for continued use.
Also, there's a few websites out there that deal specifically with Miata and N2O. All I can find at the moment is http://www.turbomx5.com/nitro1.htm but I'll keep looking.
I would avoid a "dry" system and look at either "wet" or "direct port" systems. A "wet" system uses a nozzle at the intake manifold just after the throttle that mixes both nitrous and fuel at the same time. A "direct port" system uses one nozzle for each cylinder so you get a more even distribution of fuel and nitrous which is safer for your engine. The Miata fuel rail is single feed so if you dramatically increase power levels cylinder #4 may starve for fuel since cylinders #1-3 get to drink from the fountain first. For this reason many people go to a dual feed fuel rail and/or a direct port N2O system. Most people recommend going no higher than 75 shot on a stock internals. You may also want an ignition timing controller to retard spark when injecting nitrous yet allow normal advance when not injecting so as to keep good throttle response. You've got a '95 so you've got the bigger ring gear in your differential which is good for withstanding higher power levels but your stock clutch will likely need to be replaced with a stronger unit.
Look up what Dragart_Miata or Stealth97 have to say on this subject. Just like FI you can go as simple or as fast as your budget will allow - standalone ecu, progressive controllers, upgraded fuel systems, remote bottle openers, bottle heaters, fully-built motors with forged internals, upgraded transmission, etc. The best bang/buck is probably a 50-75 wet shot and a new clutch. This will be fun and hopefully safe for continued use.
Also, there's a few websites out there that deal specifically with Miata and N2O. All I can find at the moment is http://www.turbomx5.com/nitro1.htm but I'll keep looking.
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5 Posts
OK, I can speak from experience on this one. I had a 50 shot of nos(dry) on my na, it also has a Toda Racing 7lbs flywheel with custom rps clutch, full tuned and stepped exhaust, magnecor 8.5, ngk race plugs and an intake. And this car was a kick in the tail. I easily outran full greddy turbo civics, 95+ mustang gt's(some modded), and a host of other imports and domestics. All while sitting on 17 inch subzeros, it was a nice boost over stock and it would supreise many many people. It's not really hard to install,takes a couple hours. Just make sure that you stay under a 65 shot if you're in a na, the rule is half your stock horsepower is the maximum shot you can run. So a na with 133hp comes out to around 65 shot of nos and thats on a decent motor. I would not run nos on a motor that has issues. Hope this helps.
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I think that goes without saying. That is unless you really feel like destroying your motor once and for all in a spectacular fashion so that you can host a video of it on YouTube or StreetFire.
Click here to see Video
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3,173 Posts
Its not at all that complex, but certain things must be done to make it safe. I ran a 75 shot for a couple years, and will be doing it again after my enigne is built.
The explosons and rumors you hear and see on the net are mostly due to improper use, instalation or tuning. You almost never see it installed the "right" way and many suffer the consequences.
I have great respect for guys like Freedom and Mr.Woolery but I dont see you people can just call it "poop". It is the most horsepower per dollar on a budget, bottom line. I just like to go fast without spending $5k+ on an FM2.
and BTW, Every miata motor I have seen destroy itself was using a dry kit. To be perfectly honest, I believe thats the stupidest thing you can possibly do with your engine, aside from spinning to 9k with a crankcase full of sand...
The explosons and rumors you hear and see on the net are mostly due to improper use, instalation or tuning. You almost never see it installed the "right" way and many suffer the consequences.
I have great respect for guys like Freedom and Mr.Woolery but I dont see you people can just call it "poop". It is the most horsepower per dollar on a budget, bottom line. I just like to go fast without spending $5k+ on an FM2.
and BTW, Every miata motor I have seen destroy itself was using a dry kit. To be perfectly honest, I believe thats the stupidest thing you can possibly do with your engine, aside from spinning to 9k with a crankcase full of sand...
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??? I appreciate your recognition but I don't think I discredited N2O in any way. David was the one who didn't think it was worthwhile unless accompanied by other upgrades.
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My apologies, I read your worthless statement incorrectly.
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Hey guys, I'm new to the forum but thought I'd say something. I have a 96 with a 65 HP dry shot from ZEX. N20 is the cheapest HP per dollar mod and its perfectly safe if you do it right. I raced a friends turbo probe with some mods, first race no n20 second with n20. First race 3rd gear roll on the highway, he killed me by about 5 car lengths(hardly a race haha) the second race he had me by about half a car length. Big differance. It's fun to use and easy to install. And i hear it gets better the more mods you have. Right now all I have is a intake and cat delete pipe.
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Like most other respectable forums, ClubRoadster doesn't condone street racing. We know it happens. Just don't talk about it here. Or better yet, just don't do it at all. If you complete your profile and fill in your missing location we'd be more than happy to tell you where you can take it to the track so you can have fun with the rest of us. Thanks!
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I have nitrous in my car and I could not notice the diference with the FMII turbo. I would say the SBB spools so fast you don't need nitrous/ I did blow the seals on that turbo and I broke the oil pump on my 1.6 engine. I also destroyed a short nose crank engine with nitrous before. It was damm ugly and it took me a whole weekend replacing the motor. I haven't touched the bottle since them. It is still full in the trunk of my car.
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