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I have the sack you want to ride.
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Yesterday I pulled the s/c off my car in order to change the coupler and oil. The s/c had gotten a little noisy and I was hoping that this routine maintenance might help quiet it down and give it some additional life before needing an expensive overhaul.

I got the oil and coupler from Track Dog Racing. It was $35 for the kit and it came with premeasured quantity of oil, a new coupler, a tube of gasket eliminator and a new drain plug with o-ring.

The process of doing this is pretty easy. Pull the blower off the car, remove the drain plug and pour out the old oil - if there is any. Mine was completely dry!! Gary at TDR says that there is usually a lot less coming out than what went in. However he's never seen one completely dry. I inspected very carefully for signs of leaks and found none. So I'm mildly concerned that i may need a rebuild sooner than I thought. But overall this process really quieted the blower down and I don't drive the car all that often so I think I'm set for a while.

Once the old oil is out, remove all of the bolts from the nose end of the s/c and then gently pry the nose section of the blower off. It has recesses where you can fit a large flathead screwdriver in and tap it with a mallet until it comes off.

If you've made it this far you can see the coupler and simply pull it off. It may have stuck to the pulley end or the rotors. Either way, it just slides off. The new one goes right back on in the same manner. You could opt to bolt it all back together and put new oil in and call it done.

If you want to take it one step further you can pull the rotors out and grease the needle bearings in the back end of the blower. This takes an extra 3 minutes - so you should probably do it. There are no bolts to remove. The rotors just pull right out of the s/c body with a little more screwdriver tapping and prying.

Here's a photo of the whole thing apart:



In the above photo you can see the s/c body, the rotors and the front section of the blower that they're attached to, the small, round coupler, the nose section with the pulley and the little drain plug near it.

Here's an "exploded" view:



The rotors in my blower had some minor amounts of "scuff" marks on the edges. This is normal. I also had one spot on one of the blades that looked as if the slippery teflon(?) coating had worn thin or worn away (not pictured). It still felt smooth but visually you could see the patch. This, also, is normal.



Here is what the gears of the rotors look like. The coupler has 6 holes. 3 for the pegs on the left gear and 3 for the pegs on the pulley end. This is the portion that gets bathed in oil, by the way. Or, at least, is supposed to be bathed in oil. Mine was dry.



Finally, here's a view straight down into the case of the s/c where you can see the 2 needle bearings that the back side of the rotors slot into. Grease those suckers up. I also put some grease directly on the "pegs" on the back side of the rotors.



Once you put everything back together just fill it back up with the pre-measured (I believe it's 8oz) oil, put the drain plug back in and put it back on the car.

I can already tell the blower is quieter when spinning it by hand. Once it's back on the car I'll report back.
 

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I would be a bit skeptical about having the rotors out of the supercharger and resting on a hard and dirty floor. I just wouldn't like to get more scuffs or get them dirty....
Did you have to do all that to remove the oil? Isn't a filling plug somewhere?

When I opened my JRSC (M45) there was still almost half the quantity of oil in there... but I do hear of more incidents of leaking MP62 units. Did you buy the blower new or used? How many miles do you have?

Here are some pictures from my M45 oil change...
http://bluelaguna94.myphotoalbum.com/view_album.php?set_albumName=album69


 

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I have the sack you want to ride.
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Don't worry. I cleaned the rotors thoroughly before putting them back in the case. I only rested them (gently) on the floor for that one photo. Otherwise they were sitting on the cardboard pictured in other photos.

I bought the blower used about 2.5 years ago. It probably had 2-5k miles on it. I've since put somewhere around 15-17k miles on it. So roughly 20k miles and I don't think it's ever had the oil changed.

You don't have to blow out the whole thing just to change the oil. However, I also wanted to change the coupling and grease the needle bearings which you can only get to by pulling the rotors out.
 

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Good info MK2! Great pics as well. This will be of help to a bunch of people.
 

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I have the sack you want to ride.
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4,639 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
So yesterday I finally got the free time to finish putting the s/c back on the car. The rattling noise I previously heard at idle is gone. The s/c itself is a bit quieter across the board (as it should be now that there is actually OIL ON THE GEARS). The car seems to pull a little stronger, too. But that could just be because I disconnected the battery - which killed the ECU's fuel trim settings. I saw 9wtq on the dyno from doing that.

So...if you've got a noisy MP62 - do this before spending $450-$800 on a full refurb.
 
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