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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
OK, I'm sure this has been covered before but I'm looking for a more recent take on this. If you know of a recent build that matches this, post a link.

I have the OEM engine with a spun bearing.

Brief rundown,
The car has the FMII upgrade with hydra and 550cc injectors - 2560 turbo - FM Cast dump pipe and home made 2.5" exhaust with not rear muffler. 5psd box

The car is currently running a replacement MSM engine.

Now, considering the above and the fact winter is nearly here, themissus and I have a winter project planned involving the rebuild of the OEM engine.

The car is 99% daily driven at the moment with the hope of hitting the track once the new build is complete and then 3-4 track days a year, hopefully more.

I'll be doing track days not autox.

Budget is a definite factor in the build as I'm not made of money. But I need a budget 1st to work with.

Here are my thoughts at this time;

7500 to 8000rpm redline - FM do a head for ~$1250 I think - what's required to be able to hammer her with that kinda RPM

Internals - suggestions (assuming the crank/block are still serviceable), so far looking at rods/pistons

Extras/ancillaries - water pump, rebuild kits etc.

Thoughts?
 

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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b8lEdFf_Dm0

You should ask Begi. I think they said rods were the weak link. But to be on the safe side, I'd say you'd also need an ATI dampener, possibly billet oil pump gears, and maybe the valvetrain needs to be reworked to withstand float.
 

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it's not the boost that's the problem, it's the fact he wants to redline at 8k
 

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Oops, you're a LO car, disregard.


Gut feeling, especially with headwork, i would be inclined to agree with Saedrin. The 2560 will probably drop off by then.

What are your power goals? Do you know why the old motor lunched? Was it actually due to power or was it oil starvation?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
See,this is why I ask the questions. I not 100% sure the 2560 will stay in there once the rebuild is done and running. I'm starting to also question if a 8000rpm redline is necessary.

From what I can gather, the head is OK to about 7500rpm before you start to experience a bit of float?

I guess while it's all apart I'd like to make it as bullet proof as possible so I'm not revisiting it in a couple of years to change stuff again.

This is all at least 6 months off before I even start on the rebuild, just trying to work out a budget.

As for power, I don't have a goal as such but a nice solid 300rwhp wouldn't be bad but I'm also worried about killing diffs and boxes at that level.

The previous owner killed the 6 speed so it's now running a 5 speed. Not sure what year the 5 speed is from though.

The last engine died due to oil starvation(and a lack of oil) at an autox day from what I can gather. Again, the death of this motor was in the hands of the previous owner.

I hope to get my grubby hands on the OEM engine this w'end with any luck!
 

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See,this is why I ask the questions. I not 100% sure the 2560 will stay in there once the rebuild is done and running. I'm starting to also question if a 8000rpm redline is necessary.

From what I can gather, the head is OK to about 7500rpm before you start to experience a bit of float?

I guess while it's all apart I'd like to make it as bullet proof as possible so I'm not revisiting it in a couple of years to change stuff again.

This is all at least 6 months off before I even start on the rebuild, just trying to work out a budget.

As for power, I don't have a goal as such but a nice solid 300rwhp wouldn't be bad but I'm also worried about killing diffs and boxes at that level.

The previous owner killed the 6 speed so it's now running a 5 speed. Not sure what year the 5 speed is from though.

The last engine died due to oil starvation(and a lack of oil) at an autox day from what I can gather. Again, the death of this motor was in the hands of the previous owner.

I hope to get my grubby hands on the OEM engine this w'end with any luck!

7500rpm should be fine. Mine has been spun to that for 75k miles now with no ill effects. Knock on wood.

300rwhp should fine on your driveline. The 6spd setup the car came with is actually stronger, but the gearing sucks for autox. Would have been interesting for track work, though.

Honestly... i'd just throw in whatever forged rods and pistons you can find, slap her back together, and let 'er rip.
 

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I'd be worried about the 5psd at those power levels. QQQQ at ms.com was going through em like they were wear items at just 250whp.
 

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I'd be worried about the 5psd at those power levels. QQQQ at ms.com was going through em like they were wear items at just 250whp.

Depends how you drive it i guess.... Jeremy @ FM suggested that i convert my MSM to 5spd and i'm around 250whp, looking for 270whp.

For drag racing, i'd worry about the 5spd. For autox, i wouldn't.
 
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