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Garage Quinn Motors - GQM
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Discussion Starter #101
Excellent thread!
I've just acquired some Jenveys.
What kind of gains could one expect with just a 0.060" shave, freeing up the exhaust but keeping the stock cam?
You are probably going to want adjustable cam gears at a minimum because shaving the head retards cam timing. I don't know about power gains for you. The shave, 264' cams, gears, valvetrain stuff, Maxim Works -> Maruha VP Header and pulleys were worth about 20hp for me.
 

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Well don't have a set up as such yet as its very early days, but had planned on following yours.
I suppose what I'm really asking is if you hadn't bothered with the Maruha cams how would this have effected your figures?
Sorry I'm relatively new to this engine tuning stuff.
 

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Great job Quinn. Your set-up is very similar to mine. I also wanted to retain easy replacement should I break something on track. My bottom end is a stock '01 block just rebuilt with new rings etc and the block decked. My head is from a '99 with a skim. Mine's also had quite a lot of port work, as I already had that head lying about. Jenveys, Maruha cams etc though - all very similar.

From your videos, my car sounds so similar to yours.
 

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Garage Quinn Motors - GQM
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Discussion Starter #104
Great job Quinn. Your set-up is very similar to mine. I also wanted to retain easy replacement should I break something on track. My bottom end is a stock '01 block just rebuilt with new rings etc and the block decked. My head is from a '99 with a skim. Mine's also had quite a lot of port work, as I already had that head lying about. Jenveys, Maruha cams etc though - all very similar.

From your videos, my car sounds so similar to yours.

Thanks. I'd be interested in seeing the run down of your engine specs and what your motor made for power for comparison purposes.
 

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I have a project thread here: http://clubroadster.net/vb_forum/89-roadster-projects/127001-panda2.html

Basic spec is:

· 99 BP cylinder head from a JDM NB RS - skimmed, ported and flowed by Gugliemi Motorsport. Supertech uprated single valve springs, titanium retainers
· supertech valve stem oil seals
· Maruha 272 / 264 camshafts
· Pyramid shim-under-buckets and Supertech shims
· 02 NB2 VVT bottom end, rebuilt with new rings and new genuine Mazda gaskets
· Jenvey TB45 Individual Throttle Bodies on Jenvey NB manifold
· Jenvey (ITG) filter
· Bosch fuel-injectors
· MS2 Megasquirt ECU with custom loom including wideband Lambda
· Fidanza vernier cam gears
· Racing Beat 4-1 exhaust manifold
· QP De-cat pipe
· RS Factory Stage N-Zero 2 Exhaust
· Coolant re-route
· F1 Stage 3 uprated paddle clutch and F1 lightweight 4.5kg flywheel
· PAS removed
· AC removed

 

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Garage Quinn Motors - GQM
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2,847 Posts
Discussion Starter #106
I have a project thread here: http://clubroadster.net/vb_forum/89-roadster-projects/127001-panda2.html

Basic spec is:

· 99 BP cylinder head from a JDM NB RS - skimmed, ported and flowed by Gugliemi Motorsport. Supertech uprated single valve springs, titanium retainers
· supertech valve stem oil seals
· Maruha 272 / 264 camshafts
· Pyramid shim-under-buckets and Supertech shims
· 02 NB2 VVT bottom end, rebuilt with new rings and new genuine Mazda gaskets
· Jenvey TB45 Individual Throttle Bodies on Jenvey NB manifold
· Jenvey (ITG) filter
· Bosch fuel-injectors
· MS2 Megasquirt ECU with custom loom including wideband Lambda
· Fidanza vernier cam gears
· Racing Beat 4-1 exhaust manifold
· QP De-cat pipe
· RS Factory Stage N-Zero 2 Exhaust
· Coolant re-route
· F1 Stage 3 uprated paddle clutch and F1 lightweight 4.5kg flywheel
· PAS removed
· AC removed
Did you ever dyno?
 

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Garage Quinn Motors - GQM
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Discussion Starter #108

What are you showing here? All I see is a retardedly expensive head that comes with stock cams and some COPS. The only thing of some value in it might be the port work in terms of design. However, one can easily reproduce that head for a fraction of the cost.

I still have yet to see what the problem is people keep complaining about with the stock ignition system. I have no ignition problems with either of my cars. My all motor NB is using regular BKR5E-11s NGK's gapped to .042 and my turbo Miata running 18psi making 254 whp uses BKR7E-11s NGK's gapped to .032. No ignition issues whatsoever. So unless you plan on going for more power than that, I do not see the benefit of COPS.
 

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I think there's definitely some variability in Miata ignition systems. My turbo car has spark blowout issues with the same plugs you run (@ 0.025), NGK wires. Maybe I just need to replace the OEM coils or lean out my VE table a bit. I'd estimate around 200whp maxing out a SR20 T25.

Anyway, back on topic, N/A applications need not apply for COPs.
 

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This bp build has become the new benchmark for no bullsh*t NA power.

Though not necessary for my build i upgraded to toyota cops as a 'while im at it' thing, and the wire in seemed easy enough.
 

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My ~200whp greddy 1.6 setup had spark blowout with the OEM coil setup. Of course that was the OEM 170k coilpack, but by the time I bought a new coilpack and replaced the plug wires a time or two (which I already have in the life of the car), the COPS paid for them selves.

Irrelevant info, sorry to **** in your thread. I love this car, and I absolutely would re-create this build if i were at sea level. Being at 7,200" elevation leaves much to be desired in the na department. I love the way it sounds and damn does it have some topend.
 

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Did you ever dyno?
Yeah but on a dyno that will make no sense to you. Made 129bhp at the hubs. This is around 50% up on standard hub hp though (standard healthy BP will make around 85). About to map more, will get a more comparable figure then on a dyno that's more similar to the one you measured on.

I don't know if you realise horsepower isn't a standardised measurement either? What's recognised and measured in the UK is different to the US: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Horsepower

The summary is the car is significantly transformed. I have other cars and have had strings of P cars, M cars and things like Elises etc. The last car I'd sell would be my ITB'd Mazda.
 

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Yeah but on a dyno that will make no sense to you. Made 129bhp at the hubs. This is around 50% up on standard hub hp though (standard healthy BP will make around 85). About to map more, will get a more comparable figure then on a dyno that's more similar to the one you measured on.

I don't know if you realise horsepower isn't a standardised measurement either? What's recognised and measured in the UK is different to the US: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Horsepower

The summary is the car is significantly transformed. I have other cars and have had strings of P cars, M cars and things like Elises etc. The last car I'd sell would be my ITB'd Mazda.
I was under the impression that dyno numbers taken from the hubs are higher, not lower, than as if taken from the wheels?
 

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I was under the impression that dyno numbers taken from the hubs are higher, not lower, than as if taken from the wheels?
I don't understand why you would think that? None of these numbers mean anything outside of the context of back to back dyno runs.
 

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I don't understand why you would think that? None of these numbers mean anything outside of the context of back to back dyno runs.
Have always just read that because there is less rotating mass without the wheel and tire there, there is theoretically less loss between engine to road. I don't know, because internet?

So are you saying that a dyno done from mounting to the hubs, reads lower than as if the car was driven on a roller?
 

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I don't understand why you would think that? None of these numbers mean anything outside of the context of back to back dyno runs.
I agree, a lot of people get caught up in what XXXwhp their car makes. The reality is you need to hit the same dyno every single time otherwise you cannot quantify the changes you make to a car. Furthermore, even if you go to the same dyno; tire pressure, the amount of force strapping the car & a million other variables effect the number your car produces.

Have always just read that because there is less rotating mass without the wheel and tire there, there is theoretically less loss between engine to road. I don't know, because internet?

So are you saying that a dyno done from mounting to the hubs, reads lower than as if the car was driven on a roller?
Generally speaking Dynapacks and hub dynos read higher, however, each dyno is different. Unless you took the car to the same dyno before/after, you don't know what the delta is other than from your tuning session.
 

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Quinn if I'm doing this to my 05 Miata with the vvt what should I change if anything and how reliable is the itb? I do lots of autocross and want to do more track days but I also don't want to have to tinker with the car all the time. I keep having issues locating the cams in the 264/264 combination. Any help would be appreciated. I thank you in advance for the help.

-casco
 

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Quinn if I'm doing this to my 05 Miata with the vvt what should I change if anything and how reliable is the itb? I do lots of autocross and want to do more track days but I also don't want to have to tinker with the car all the time. I keep having issues locating the cams in the 264/264 combination. Any help would be appreciated. I thank you in advance for the help.

-casco
http://949racing.com/SPM-CNC-Head.aspx

Budget $4k in head stuff, 1k or so in a standalone ecu, $500 for a header, $500 for a new clutch and flywheel combo. Then figure out the ITB kit you want. If you don't know these things you might want to re consider ITBS with a custom head on your miata.

Those are very rough ball park numbers.
 
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