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369 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
How to remove & replace a Mazdaspeed mx5 turbocharger.
I posted this as an aid to removing & replacing a mazdaspeed mx5 turbo its mostly pics & tips. Ill most likely edit it here n there every once in a while.
Use ramps or support vehicle with jackstands
Disconnect negative battery cable
Drain oil
Remove engine under cover
Drain radiator fluid
Remove front strut bar component
Remove intake air system
Remove windsheild washer tank
Use penetrating oil like PB blaster or WD40 on the exhaust manifold nuts & studs, turbocharger nuts & studs, turbocharger outlet casting nuts & studs, & downpipe nuts & studs. After you use penetrating oil you can use also synthetic motor oil on the threads, it reduces friction & allows troublesome nuts, studs, & bolts to slide off & out easier than penetrating oil alone.
When you remove nuts & bolts from parts, put the nuts & bolts back on or in the threads of the parts they came off of to prevent from losing them & they will be there when you go to put everything back together.
Use sockets & wrenches with good surfaces for grabbing the head of nuts or bolts. Don’t use tools with worn stripped surfaces.
If threads are dirty clean them with a small wire brush or something before trying to unscrew a nut over dirty threads. If threads are rusted you can buy rust remover gel from a auto parts store or online to help remove rust, let the gel sit over night.
If you need to remove a stud use a stud removal tool they can safely remove the stud without harming the threads. I borrowed some stud removal tools from Autozone for free. I put down a deposit then borrowed the tools, then I returned the tools & got back the deposit.

If you mess up the threads of a stud when taking the exhaust manifold off, because you were not as careful as you should have been in taking it off, or if a exhaust manifold nut strips the threads of a stud & you need to replace a stud in the head, use penetrating oil to help remove the stud from the head & synthetic motor oil. I began to unscrew a stud from the head & its threads jammed, it would screw back in but when I would try to unscrew it, it would jam at the same point on the way out, so I put some drops of synthetic engine oil on the threads where the base of the stud met the head then screwed the stud back in a little to work the oil into the threads inside of the head. I turned the stud in & out over & over until I worked the oil deep into the threads on the inside of the head. Finally where the threads jammed before the stud began to slide out. I did not just unscrew it all the way all at once but turned the stud in a little then unscrewed it out a little past where it was before maybe 1/4 or 1/3 of a turn at a time until I was able to remove the stud from the head.
Do not put a partly rounded nut or a stud with slightly stripped threads back on your car. Buy a new nut or stud.
If a nut becomes completely rounded off on the outside, as a sort of last resort, tool stores do sell nut splitters.
Everything apart

First thing that went back on was the oil outlet pipe

I had a friend lower the turbocharger into place while i went under the car & lined up the turbocharger oil outlet pipe on the turbocharger with the oil pan studs & put the nuts on. I made sure the mating surfaces were clean & replaced the oil seal with a new one.

I tried keeping things clean by placing things in bags while things were apart

It was difficult getting to the oil pan to oil outlet pipe stud upper nut with a normal 10mm 3/8 drive socket so I used a 10mm 3/8 drive universal socket I got from Northern Tools.

In my workshop manual in one place it says one torque for the engine mount bolt & in another part it gives a different torque for the turbo mounting brachet highlighted in below pictures so im not sure.

I installed the turbocharger before the exhaust manifold & found it was much easier to install the exhaust manifold if I tilted the exhaust manifold so that the top holes carefully went on over the top 4 studs first then the bottom holes carefully went on over the bottom 5 studs last. This made it much easier for the exhaust manifold to get over top of the turbocharger & into place without damaging the stud threads.


369 Posts
Discussion Starter #2
I used the 14mm universal socket in the picture below to remove the 3 nuts on the flyin miata downpipe in the picture above. The 14mm universal socket was the only thing that would fit on the bottom right stud & nut squarely.

I installed my Flyin miata intake pipe & manual boost controller stuff & the turbocharger compressor outlet pipe

Prime the turbocharger with oil by disconnecting the main relay & cranking the engine. I cranked the engine for 10 seconds then stopped for 10 seconds then for a second time I cranked the engine for 10 seconds then stopped for 10 seconds & for a third time I cranked the engine for 10 seconds then stopped. Then I plugged in the main relay & started the engine. I also poured a little bit of oil into the turbocharger oil inlet & filled it a little before I put the oil inlet pipe on & I pre-oiled the oil filter as much as I could without it leaking while putting it on before I installed it.


11 Posts
Damn this would have been super handy when I was swapping my turbo out a couple months ago. Hats off to MSMjohn, the pictures and writeup were both very clear and concise.

I didn't bother checking if I was torquing down the bolts to spec. It was so hard to reach some of those bolts that I just tightened them as much as I could and prayed that I would never have to mess with them again!


369 Posts
Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
you did post this in the MSM forums right? this is fantastic!
No, i would post it there but i can't because i was banned for some petty stuff for a long time now. A merciless life sentence with no chance what so ever of return because im a horrible person that deserves nothing less than a life sentence. lol

369 Posts
Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
Hardware information for 2004 Mazdaspeed mx5 turbocharger removal & install.

downpipe (outlet)
2 bolts
2 nuts
2 washers
1 round metal gasket

downpipe (inlet)
3 lock nuts mazda genuine parts # JE10-40-355

Turbocharger outlet casting (outlet)
3 studs
1 triangle metal gasket

Turbocharger outlet casting (inlet)
4 lock nuts

Turbocharger (outlet)
4 studs M8-1.25 x 42mm long
Dorman stud part # 675-333 $1.39 i had to cut these to correct length
the turbo to casting stud thread length is 20mm
the turbo stud thread length is 10mm
1 copper color rectangular gasket

Turbocharger inlet to exhaust manifold outlet
4 studs M8-1.25 x 35mm long mazda genuine parts # E5B6-13-457 $6.75 discount $5.40
stud thread length 9mm
stud thread length 12mm
4 locking nuts mazda genuine parts # JF03-13-465 $7.26 discount $5.81
4 washers
1 copper color square metal gasket

Exhaust manifold inlet to head
9 lock nuts mazda genuine parts # 9994-61-000 $3.52 discount $2.82

Head to exhaust manifold
9 studs M10-1.25 x 45mm long mazda genuine parts # BP8J-10-104 $7.99 discount $6.39
head to exhaust manifold stud thread length is 21mm
head stud thread length 14mm
1 metal gasket i bought a new one from Autozone

Turbocharger water in & out
2 M12 x 1.25

Turbocharger oil inlet
1 10 x 1.5 union

Turbocharger oil out tube bolts & oil pan studs
2 M6-1.00 bolts 40mm apart, tube flanges have 14mm bores

Oil pan to oil outlet tube stud
2 M6-1.00 studs

picture of turbocharger water in & out & turbo inlet bolts

77 Posts
Wow! that is an amazing write up! Thank you. I was wondering the same, if you'd posted this up on the MSM forum. Banned huh? Yep. That can happen over there if you use any fucking foul langauge. Oops! :D
Just come back (like many do) under a new login name. Who cares. Everyone welcomes you back anyways. Thanks again man.

4 Posts
Thank you for the highly detailed post! I am going to have mine removed for a rebuild and was wondering if you had part numbers for the seals that were replaced. Specifically the orange oval seals used on the oil drain, the seals for the oil inlet, and the water coolant inlet and outlet.
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