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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I'm new here... But I have an extensive background in cars... I've owned Turbo Hondas, lifted Blazers, a few subarus (Including my BSP killer '04 STi that was stolen), and now I've picked up a project for the wife & I to enjoy...



What we have here is a 1990 Mazda Miata.... Current mods are:

- Flyin miata adjustable front and back sway bars
- Front top strut bar
- KYB AGX Shocks
- Flyin miata Lowering Springs
- Rally style steering wheel
- Rota 15" Circuit 8's with Falken RT615K's
- Snow rims&tires
- Original rims&tires
- Carbon Fiber Hood

Its got 150k on the clock which isn't bad for the year... Under carriage is clean from what I can tell so far... No major rust.. Paint is faded Miata Red, and has a decent amount of hail damage...

First plans for the car is to fix the body work and change the color... Already have a new fender & the rear license plate panel on order, and will be starting the body work tonight...

As far as color goes, i'll be vinyl wrapping the car.. Trying to decide on color.. Choices are either:

Solid Color Choices:
Matte White
Lime Green
Magenta
Orange
Gold

Pattern Choices:
Digital Snow Camo
Digital Tiger Camo
Digital Pink Camo
Grey Gator Skin
Black with Glitter Flake

Will most likely be a solid color, as this car will be a budget built racer for the wife and I, so we aren't sure if we want to spend the money on the pattern vinyl (Yet at least)...

It needed a new battery, so I ordered a Deka ETX9 battery for $60 shipped... Lightweight FTW! Only other major mods soon will be to the cooling system reroute as this car is probably going to get a lot of highway miles put on it in the dead of summer...

After that, it will get driven, and driven hard.. I will probably order an ES Master bushing kit for it and replace all of the bushings, powdercoating every piece as I replace the bushings (Since my friend now has a sandblaster and PC oven in his garage).. The wife wants to switch out to coilovers & CCW's so the car can go lower... :hello kitty: But I don't think I want to spend as much as I did on the car for wheels...

And if I can find a good deal on some forced induction, it will get it... The car has pep for the 116hp it has, but needs more boogity boogity on the highway for those summer rallies we participate in...


EDIT:
EDIT: To Do list as of 4/11/2012
-Oil Change (Thinking Rotella 15w40 Or Penzoil Platinum 10w30)
-Trans Fluid Change (Motorcraft XT-M5-QS)
-Rear Diff Fluid Change (Mobil1 75w90)
-Coolant Flush (Will probably just switch to water for awhile as its pretty muddy and I want to clean it all out.
-Replace Coolant Overflow with hidden one
-Seafoam Engine
-Plugs & Wires (Need to order wires)
-Replace Ignitor Condensor (On Order)
-Make custom cold side intake
-Coolant Reroute for better efficiency
-Finish Painting Car
-Lube EBrake cables (Driver side cable sticks)
-Replace Door moldings (Aka Beltlines)
-HID Projector Headlight Conversion
-Custom side mirrors using motorcycle mirrors (Mirrors are on order)
-Make Custom Door Panels
-Fab/Install Stereo System
-Wire up Map Lights
-Replace Hood Pins
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
I threw the rotas on and took the car for a drive... OMFG I LOVE THIS CAR.. Over 70mph the car doesn't have much power, but OMFG this thing is just stupidly fun to drive... another 100hp wouldn't hurt it, but it doesn't NEED it.
Car was a little tail happy, but I was overdriving it, and I haven't even checked the suspension to see where its set at for stiffness, or where the swaybars are set...

Also started some body work... Threw some primer on it, then wetsanded some spots to see how bad the waves really are... Tonight i'll start with the rage filler...

Its amazing what a set of wheels can do for the look of a car...


went to remove the rear wing and found an interesting mounting solution...



Upon removal, i discovered they are toggle bolts lolz... I asked myself why anybody would mount a wing like that... Then I saw this...

Oh that's why... Because its a wing made for a saturn lol... It actually looks pretty good and I'll be keeping it on the car.. May just improve the mounting of it...

Waves found while wetsanding some spot primer...


You can see the hail damage here...



Driver's side isn't TOO bad...


Oh and while swapping wheels I discovered this...

Bent bumper bracket? Plywood will fix it! lol
 

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I thought mine was bad... Good luck with it :phillyb:
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Nah... I wouldn't necessarily call this "ghetto"... I'd call this more "improv" lol... I've seen much worse than this on other cars... A buddy bought an S13 once that the entire front end (hood/fenders/bumper) were held on with nothing other than wooden dowels & liquid nails..
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Did a little work on the car last night...

The lugs that came with the car were black tuner lugs that the key was SHOT on, so I swapped out one wheel to the wife's pink open ended lugs from her RSX to see how they looked... They stick out further than I'd like, but they'll do...


Did some more body work. (I am by NO MEANS a body man, nor am I building a 100 point car here. Just straightening out the body so its a decent 6 footer)

I wetsanded the primer, and laid down the first coat of filler (EverCoat for those that are wondering)...



I need to figure out how to remove this window sill piece so I can sand it down and repaint it...


And I need to figure out what this is, and fix it / order a replacement before the wire actually breaks and possibly leaves me stranded. I THINK its something wiper related, since any diagrams I find for underhood wiring say blue wires are wiper power.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
Win! Thank you kind sir... I think I need to replace the window rollers too now that I think about it.. The manual window is rough going up and down, and has some "clank" to it..


And I THINK this is the wiring..



Which needs I need a new Ignitor capacitor?


EDIT:

Looks like its a Condensor..


But for what I asked... Then I found...

Capacitor (Condenser)

The capacitor performs several functions. It prevents the points from arcing and prevents coil insulation breakdown by limiting the rate of voltage rise at the points. It's primary function is to provide for a rapid decay of the primary coil current. The capacitor also "third-harmonic" tunes the coil, raising the peak output voltage and increasing the secondary voltage rise time. This increases the efficiency and the amount of energy transferred to the spark plugs. If the coil secondary voltage rises too quickly, excessive high frequency energy is produced. This energy is then lost into the air-waves by electro-magnetic radiation from the ignition wiring instead of going to the spark plugs where we would like it to go. Voltage rise time should be more than 10 microseconds; a 50-microsecond rise time is OK. Conventional systems have a typical rise time of about 100 microseconds.
$10 to order a new one...
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
And the work continues....

Figured i'd gut the trunk & yank the battery, check for rust, etc...

Custom battery tie down (I had already removed some of the rope)


I think the previous owner(s) got their use out of this battery...


Left rear suspension... Looks okay... Although for some reason I have a feeling that nut isn't OEM...


And the right rear... (Apparently its double nutted for some reason)


Sanded down the bondo...




Laid down a thick coat of primer to see where i'm at...








Its better than I thought it would be after one coat of filler, but at the same time... I noticed some more imperfections... I think 1-2 more coats and i'll have it good enough...
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Didn't get as much done this weekend as I would have liked... But still made progress..

The car needed a new battery, so i researched what people are using other than $110 OEM replacements from Autozone/Advanced... And I was told Deka ETX9 is what quite a few people are using... Lightweight & small, and $60 shipped on ebay... So I pulled the trigger... Figured if it sucks the tractor needs a new battery anyways...

This is what came in the mail...


I laughed, then said to myself "Where's the rest of it?"...

So just to see if it would even start the car before bothering with a mounting solution, I hooked up the terminals... Car fired up without even flinching. I was actually impressed with how firm the starter sounded... Here is the battery next to a paint can for size reference...


So in order to correctly mount it & safely wire it, i went the KISS method... Snap off the terminal rings but keep the hole for the ring bolt, and use the bolts that came with the battery to clamp it down... Then, I modified a bracket I used to use for my power inverter to hold the battery down using a factory bolt hole on one side, and drilled a new hole with a J Bolt on the other... I'll possibly make another bracket, as this one has been bent/reshaped a good dozen times, but we'll see... It works as it is...


Bodywork is closer... Driver's quarter just needs another skimcoat in 2 places, trunk is done.. Passenger quarter needs one more pass... I'll hopefully have thatand the doors done tonight...






 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I'm trying to keep up the pace... But its at the point in body work that I HATE.. Where you THINK you are done and ready for paint... Then you notice the little stuff you missed and have to go back again and again... And you just want it done already!

Put first coat on the bumper last night...





Its going to take AT LEAST 3 coats...

I need to get 2 more jack stands so that I can put the car up on stands to paint... Its just too friggin little to be bending over/squatting trying to work on this thing...

The new rearview mirror came in last night... Its an el cheapo eBay I got for now that attaches to the windshield with 3m tape... If it pisses me off or vibrates too much, it uses a swivel ball that looks the same size as my GPS Suction cup, so i'll just swap out the included neck for my GPS one and suction cup it to the windshield. Will make it easy to remove for autocross that way too...
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Ian excited to see how the vinyl works out. Good luck.
The vinyl has been abandoned for now in favor of Chalkboard paint... If we don't like or get sick of the chalkboard, THEN it will get vinyled... Most likely with matte gold..
 

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Good progress.

A CF hood will weigh the same has the ALU hood that is on it. Just an FYI
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Good progress.

A CF hood will weigh the same has the ALU hood that is on it. Just an FYI
It came with the car... I'd prefer OEM.. I gotta go pickup the OEM from the previous owner, but it has hail damage, which is why he went carbon in the first place...
 

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It came with the car... I'd prefer OEM.. I gotta go pickup the OEM from the previous owner, but it has hail damage, which is why he went carbon in the first place...
AHH okay I thought you were planning on purchasing one.
 

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I know this car... you in MA?

Checked it out on CL but I was all set. Did you buy the torsen he was selling too? Good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I know this car... you in MA?

Checked it out on CL but I was all set. Did you buy the torsen he was selling too? Good luck!
I'm in CT... But yes... Same car. I beat him up on price quite a bit from what he was asking.

Didn't get the torsen... Didn't have the money, and now that I look around, he was asking a little much.

Seller was a really cool guy though...
 
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