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Discussion Starter #1
So this may be an idiotic question, but are there major power differences between 94-97 1.8's and 99-00 1.8's? I want to put a 1.8 in my 1.6 and maybe go turbo down the road. What's the best choice? Are there big differences in the swap procedure?
 

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SuperMOD
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99-00 swaps in pretty much just like any other 1.8 and makes a good bit more power.
01+ has VVT which makes things kinda difficult.
 

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well the 99+ heads are better then the 94-97

the big difference in the blocks is the CR
as for 94-97 has a 9:1 CR
99-00 9.5:1
01+ 10:1
 

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I just finished my swap and it was pretty straight forward. Just moved my sensors over from the NA engine to the NB. Not a big deal. Power gain is noticible but the biggest difference I found was how smooth the NB engine is compared. I haven't picked up an rpm switch for the VICS, but having it set up for low end seems just fine. Eventually I will hook it up, but I'm not in a mad rush to. I recommend the swap.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for the good responses. I was expecting to get some condescending 'noob' remarks. I had read some things about it on Flyin' Miatas site, but wanted to hear first hand about some. Why isn't there a thread dedicated to 1.8 swaps? Do's, don'ts, tips, etc. Seems to me the info on this should be overflowing the section. Or is it so simple, nobody needs to talk about it? Anyway, thanks.
 

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Good question as I am deciding which motor to go with. Part of my decision will be based on whether I plan to go FI. If the bottom end does not need rebuilding then I will go with the lower compression ratio of the 94-97...or would it not make enough difference?
 

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Rotarded
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physically the 1.8 drops right in to a 1.6 car, the only difference is some wiring here and there. its possible to retain the 1.6 ecu, but since you're in canada you have no excuse not to megasquirt it.
 

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i went from a 95 1.8 to an 00 1.8 i can now keep up with CARB legal supercharger kits with no other mods. if all you are doing is swaping with no other mods, go with the 99-00 1.8, you will be very happy. if you are going forced induction, take a look at a hybrid 94-97 1.8 lower end and a 99-00 head. you get the flow and cams from the good head and the slightly more boost friendly 9:1 compression.
 

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physically the 1.8 drops right in to a 1.6 car, the only difference is some wiring here and there. its possible to retain the 1.6 ecu, but since you're in canada you have no excuse not to megasquirt it.

Wrong.

To turbo, you want to go for the Earlier short 1.8 block 94-95 with solid lifter head 99-00_. The earlier short blocks has cold coolant source and oil source under the exhaust manifold. This is a must for spacerless coolant reroutes, coolant to the turbo and oil feed.

Earlier 1.8 shortblock with 2001-2004 MBSP and oil pan is the best shortblock to turbo a miata.
 

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Wrong.

To turbo, you want to go for the Earlier short 1.8 block 94-95 with solid lifter head 99-00_. The earlier short blocks has cold coolant source and oil source under the exhaust manifold. This is a must for spacerless coolant reroutes, coolant to the turbo and oil feed.

Earlier 1.8 shortblock with 2001-2004 MBSP and oil pan is the best shortblock to turbo a miata.
I don't get your quote/post...why are you telling him heis wrong but not countering anything he says? The 1.8 doesn't drop right in? Megasquirt is not a good idea? Or you quoted the wrong person?
 

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What I am saying is that NOT All 1.8 shortblock are the same. If you are looking to turbocharge your miata you first need to learn about the difference between shortblocks so that you'll have more options at the end. Good luck
 

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if you are going forced induction, take a look at a hybrid 94-97 1.8 lower end and a 99-00 head. you get the flow and cams from the good head and the slightly more boost friendly 9:1 compression.
This is a good idea and basically what I did. And if you want a further drop in compression, the 94-95.5 blocks actually had an 8.8:1 compression ratio. However, the difference is negligible on a typical OEM engine turbo setup so probably not worth holding out for.

Hyper is correct, the earlier 1.8L blocks do have the ports directly into the coolant and oil jackets so you can easily feed the turbo. If you happen across a MazdaSpeed Miata block, they will have those ports as well. This is on my '95 block (the two ports are behind the downpipe, the blue fitting is coolant and the silver fitting is oil):


Large picture here: Large

The MBSP (main bearing support plate) is nice to have for extra bracing's sake, but not a must. I cannot remember who said it, but there was good information showing that unless you are making extreme hp (400+), it's not a must. Basically money better spent elsewhere as most of the time the MBSP swap parts go for some decent money. I got one simply because I happened across an MSM block that had badly spun bearings, and lucked out with the oil pan too, which has a plug-n-play port for turbo oil return.
 

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SUPER OLD THREAD BUMP !
I´m looking to do something with my old 140k Miles old engine in NA8 miata. I want to stay N/A.
I will fiting ITBs and will do NB head swap with port, OS valves, supertech springs, and shave it...
BUT!
My bottom end seems to be dead. well mostly, it still make normal power and pull great (well great for N/A BP engine) but it burns like 0.5liter of oil per 400miles. or something like that. Exhaust gases smells bad as well.
so I want to build bottom end with oversized 85mm or 84mm supertech pistons (11:1CR) and manley rods.
My question is if there is a reason to look for some NB block vs. using my old NA8 block.
I know that NB block uses thrust washers or something like that on crank that can cause some problem...
 
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