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Zero felonies. One deportation.
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Discussion Starter #1
First of all I've been trying to use the search feature for the past week and a half to 2 weeks with no luck. I keep getting a "fatal error- server out of memory" message, so if there is already a thread on this I apologize.

I can't decide if I want a NA or NB and I would like some help deciding. NAs are nice and simple but I also like the more aggressive look of the NB.

I've read from a google search that NBs have a stiffer chassis and they obviously have a 1.8 so it would be faster right?

How tall I am will most likely be a factor of fitting? I'm 6'2.5" so I'm not the shortest person. How much bigger are NBs over NAs?

I know it may sound like I'm leaning towards a NB but I'm not sure which to get, and want your reasons on which I should get. I'm going to be running 15" wheels on either one and going for the whole function>form approach with a turbo in mind.
 

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na's also had a 1.8 from 94-97
nb's do indeed have a stiffer chassis
i've had both and prefer the na due to more aftermarket **** available. and i also just really love me some goddamn flip lights.
i prefer the back end of the nb much more but a new trunk/spoiler on the na will accomplish a similar duck bill going on that the nb has from the factory.
the nb1 front end can leave much to be desired though whereas the na looks good from just about any angle.
6 speed availability on the nb is also nice
you wanna spend 3k on a car? na
you wanna spend 7k on a car? nb (ballpark numbers, obviously you can get both cars for more or less depending on mileage, maintenance, mods etc...)
 

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I wanna go fast
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Depends on what you want to do with it really. What kind of modifications/upgrades do you have planned. Forced induction, body modd ect. Also what kind of budget are you on? I have owned both an I like them equally. Best thing you can do is get out and test drive both.
 

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Zero felonies. One deportation.
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Discussion Starter #4
Well I've been planning for both just in case and this is what I have in mind.

NA- 15x8 RPF1s (most likely)
Roll bar
Chassis stiffening
Coilovers (not sure which brand yet)
GV lip
Hardtop
Then I'd work on the engine. Eventually up a turbo in it and boost 10-12psi. Still need more research

If I were to get the NB it would be pretty much the same.
15x9 wheels
MSM lip (if I can get ahold of one)
If not then a GV lip
Turbo 12-14psi(more research needed)

Budget isn't a big deal. I still have a year before college and I already saved everything I need for that :D

I pretty much want a car that I can auto-x with, bring to the track and have fun but still be reliable. I have a civic as a daily so I can take my time with this project.
 

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With the NA doorcards the interior feels a lot bigger.

Get a 1.8 NA with torsion and be happy that it is cooler than a NB.

To me the NA feels more raw than the NB

But I am biased.
 

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But **** VICS.
NA, 99 head, and all the boosts.

2001+ is the only good looking NB and with the cash you'd spend you could buy and turbo an NA

Get it yet?
 

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Budget isn't a big deal. I still have a year before college and I already saved everything I need for that :D

I pretty much want a car that I can auto-x with, bring to the track and have fun but still be reliable. I have a civic as a daily so I can take my time with this project.
Given your requirements and budget, you could go either way and I think it boils down to aesthetics. NA has the pop up headlights, which are oh so cool :). Turning the ignition and seeing the pop ups come on puts a smile on my face. That being said, I like the NB body style more (sometimes). I'd assume if you got an NA (cheaper) you'd feel more inclined to do more gutsy work on it, ie. paint it, pull carpet etc. You wouldn't be so afraid to "ruin" it.

Oh I see your Canadian as well. I got a good condition NA for $2800 with hardtop. Did not see as many winters as most NAs in Ontario and its still rusty to hell. Rust is such a pain in the ass to deal with so please do yourself a favour and splurge a little for a rust free car.
 

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Zero felonies. One deportation.
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Discussion Starter #11
Pretty sure they don't exist.
Whoops I meant 15x7. The iPhone keyboard is pretty tight. :lol:

And yeah I'm not afraid to dig in. The car will be painted unless it's a color I like more than what I have in mind.

Edit: yeah I'm avoiding rust like a plague. I'm probably going to import from down south to avoid it.
 

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Oh god yes, not matter what car you get, DO NOT get one with ANY form of rust.

Trust me I regret it more than anything, look through Fresh NBs thread too rust is a bitch.
 

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But **** VICS.
NA, 99 head, and all the boosts.

2001+ is the only good looking NB and with the cash you'd spend you could buy and turbo an NA

Get it yet?
its funny you say this, since the 2001+ head is by far the most desirable for FI due to the VVT.


Anyways, Here is a run-down from an 99 NB guy:

Good stuff on the NB (Specifically 99):
-the 99 NB has the best power to weight ratio of all the NA/NBs (minus MSM of course). Its a small advantage if even one due to the fact you will be modifying the car. Plus, I know the 99 redlines at 6900, not sure about the NA1.8, and the 1.6 for sure redlines at 7200 or higher.
-The NB is the better platform right off the bat, especially suspension wise. NB tophats help with rear suspension travel, and our subframe allows for a bit more camber in the front. if you slam the car, you will have plenty of available camber either way, but if you are planning to run anywhere close to stock ride height, you might find yourself looking for ways to get more camber in the NA.
-the NB1.8 is more powerful and not as heavy as a lot of us make it out to be. with comparable optioning, the 99 NB is maybe 50 lbs heavier than the 96/97 NA and maybe 70 lbs heavier than a 94/95 NA. I would say some of that is due to emissions and the rest is probably in chassis bracings and changes to other random stuff. (don't quote my numbers, but its under 100 lbs)
-Comes with most of the chassis bracings already.
-The interior is better
-You can convert to the 01+ front bumper and headlights, which will give you a more aggressive profile, HIDs, fog lights and/or holes for brake ducting.
-The NB market is equivalent to the NA in all aspects EXCEPT:
---Visual stuff like lips, spoilers, and bumpers, and some aero
---Headers
-We have a lot more fender space and the wheels are 5mm further out than the NA, so we have a wider wheel base. We can comfortably fit 15x8s with no fitment issues and 15x9s on respectable ride height with no rolling or pulling. A roll should fix anything beyond that for a 15x9.


Bad stuff for the NB:

-No pop-up headlights
-More expensive
-Stock suspension is softer and less fun
-99 NB seats suck
-94 NA block already has oil and coolant ports on the engine, making it desirable for forced induction.
-Easier to get cold air into your intake on the NA, due to headlight NACA ducts and items of the such.
 

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i disagree redem...
msm used a 99 head to make sure they didn't have the vvt or vics or whatever that **** is called.
there are less tuning solutions available as well for nb2
i know you post on mt too, so i'm curious about your information, but i thought it was generally accepted knowledge that the 99 head is the best for boost
 

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i disagree redem...
msm used a 99 head to make sure they didn't have the vvt or vics or whatever that **** is called.
there are less tuning solutions available as well for nb2
i know you post on mt too, so i'm curious about your information, but i thought it was generally accepted knowledge that the 99 head is the best for boost
the VVT is desirable for better spool. There is plenty of discussion about this on MT. the 99 head is up there for sure though. I think its arguable in either direction depending on the application you want it for.

As far as tuning solutions, any tuning solution will work for the NB2 (01+), you will just have to get something to deal with the VVT on top of the tuning solution. I don't really know as far as tuning goes, I have only consider the MS personally as I favor the DIY idea and the fact that I can expand the MS to do some data acquisition of the racing kind. So, perhaps I am not the best to discuss VVT/01+ tuning.
 

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Edit: yeah I'm avoiding rust like a plague. I'm probably going to import from down south to avoid it.
Please, anything to avoid rust. I know I said I was gonna get a rust free car because a lot of people suggested so but never really emphasized how key it is. Rust just makes working on your car suck.

And I'm guessing this is your first car. Remember to budget for tools, I've saved all my receipts and I've spent just over $6000 on my $2800 car (including everything I've spent on my car). To break it down...

~600 on maintenance parts and lubes etc.
~600 on tools
~1200 on the car (wheels/tires + coilovers +headlights).
~$300 in Fees for buying the car.
~400 for winter tires and safety and emissions etc.

So I know you say budget isn't a big concern, but just keep in mind there are a lot of things to pay for, including insurance (FYI I pay $2100 a year).
 

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Zero felonies. One deportation.
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Discussion Starter #20
Anyways, Here is a run-down from an 99 NB guy
This makes me want a NB so badly, I just love how simple a NA is.

For the front end swap do you need fenders and a rad support or is the bumper an headlights interchangeable? I can weld and have access to a shop so that's not a problem I'm just wondering.
 
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