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Discussion Starter #1
A couple of months ago, I was at a friend's house. He happened to have a buffer laying around with a wool pad and some meguiars polish so I decided why not give it a shot.
Welll as you can see I'm a horrible detailer, and I left the car with what seems to be permanent swirl marks. You can only tell when the sun is shining directly on it, but it still bugs the hell out of me.

Is there any way to fix this? or is the paint forever doomed until a paint job.
maybe I should have at it again with the buffer :woolery:


 

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What compound did you use? Buffer? Pad?

Did you wash and clay before hand?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
What compound did you use? Buffer? Pad?

Did you wash and clay before hand?
buffer looked something like this

this was compound used

and the pad was wool, and felt very used and rough

Car was washed before, but I didn't clay

Looking back I think it might of been the pad because it felt so rough and old
 

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Wet sand it but I would be really really careful if u did that to it already. I would call a real deatailer as they know what to do.
 

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Get a new pad and try using their ultimate compound.

If that compound isnt aggressive enough you may need to step up to M105 and that is trickier to use.

Is the buffer an orbital one or just single action?
 

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Ill chime in when I get access to a computer..but as a Detailer myself I can already tell you that the pad/polish combination you used was way too aggressive for what was needed. Combine that with a rotary polisher, and you're risking burning through the paint if used incorrectly. Think of it like sandpaper, the more aggressive you go, the more of its own marks it leaves behind. With a rotary polisher, heat is generated very quickly and can burn through the paint if left in the same spot for too long.

Assuming that you haven't burnt through the paint, it should still be correctable as long as you either invest in a set of polishes, pads and a dual action polisher, or simply take it to a trusted Detailer (typically not from a car wash joint) that can get that sorted out.

Sent from my ADR6300 using Tapatalk
 

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If you want, bring it by my house and I can try to get the swirls out for you. I don't think the polish was the problem, the rotary with a wool pad was. I have a porter cable with a bunch of pads and product
 

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If you want, bring it by my house and I can try to get the swirls out for you. I don't think the polish was the problem, the rotary with a wool pad was. I have a porter cable with a bunch of pads and product
This.

In fact, the type of polish you used isn't even really considered strong enough to provide a good amount of scratch removal. If I were you I'd definitely take up tkblazer's offer if you want to save the money investing in a bunch of products and the time involved with learning how to use them :).

Just to give you an idea of the type of work involved in scratch removal, here's a thread of an M3 I did a while back that was in a similar paint condition as yours was now (thanks to a "detailer" from a local carwash):

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2009964
 

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The paint on the miata should never require a rotary buffer. It's so damn soft. I'd would also take tkblazer's offer if I were you.
 

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The info I do know I learned from the NASIOC detailing section. I would urge anyone wanting to restore their paint to research there, or detailers domain.
 

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I was going to recommend Autopia and Truth in Detailing forums as well..but apparently they've joined together. The forum is pretty much made up of all detailers. It was where I learned to detail and is a great place to answer any questions you may have.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
If you want, bring it by my house and I can try to get the swirls out for you. I don't think the polish was the problem, the rotary with a wool pad was. I have a porter cable with a bunch of pads and product
awesome I'd appreciate that a lot. What city are you in and when are you free?
 

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Rotary polishers are for experienced detailers, stick to DA style buffers like the porter cable and it will be much easier.
 

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I run my own detailing business here in Australia, your problem there was using the wool pad. Wool pads can do alot of damage if used incorrectly as they are really only meant for heavy cutting older style paints. To fix it you will have to get yourself a few different grade foam pads and some decent compounds, I use Menzerna compounds on mine and my customers cars. I would stay away from any compounds with filters or fillers in them such as Meguires ultimate as you will only be masking the damage and not fixing it. Easiest fix would be to take it to a professional detailer, he will have all the equipment and knowledge to do the job correctly.
 

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Rotary and wool in inexperienced hands. You need to slap your friend upside the head. The porter cable is your friend. I detail cars on the side and still use my porter cable. It requires a bit more time on some of the harder clearcoats or blemishes but the saftey net it provides is well worth it.

If you stick with the Meguiars definately try ultimate compund first. When I still used their stiff it was quite good.
 

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I'm a professional detailer for the most part, had a lot of experience in a body shop and detail shops. You can either wet sand it out with a 2500 or if that's not good enough start with lower grid or you can try to clay it out or just run through it a lot of a orbital buffer and a removing compound.
 
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