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My understanding is that the earlier head gasket is recommended, but so far I haven't heard of any vvt head gasket reroutes melting engines.

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BP26-10-271 is the gasket you want.

Frohock lost two vvt engines with reroutes and the later head gasket.

The engine's not in immediate danger of blowing when you run a reroute with the stock gasket, and Frohock's engine losses can't be definitely laid on the use of a reroute with the later gasket. And, Emilio now says a reroute can be used on a VVT engine with either gasket.

*BUT*

Which gasket did they run on the VVT engine in Crusher, when they won 25 hours of Thunderhill? And also in William Bell's car in that race? BP26-10-271. That I think says more than any other miscellaneous data points.

The later gasket blocks some of the front coolant holes to force more coolant to #4. You add a reroute pulling coolant out of the back of the head, IMO, you can easily starve #1 now. Or, rather, if your cooling is marginal, #1 is then at risk.

My .02c
 

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Have a couple track days coming up in June, and took a look at my front brakes. Seems to me that they have a bit of life left, but wanted to get some of your thoughts. Won't have time between the two days to do any work on the car, so if I should swap them out I will need to do next weekend. Think they have two days of PIR left in them?

They are StopTech Sports.



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Think they have two days of PIR left in them?

They are StopTech Sports.
I think that you could likely get two more days out of them but it's likely to be close. If you have the time now, have pads, and know you're going to swap them anyway then keep what you have as a street back up set and possibly move up a pad?

Though this is all guessing and handwaveing as I don't run the sports on the track.
 

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I think that you could likely get two more days out of them but it's likely to be close. If you have the time now, have pads, and know you're going to swap them anyway then keep what you have as a street back up set and possibly move up a pad?

Though this is all guessing and handwaveing as I don't run the sports on the track.
I would be installing the StopTech BBK, which came with new Sport pads. I think I'll probably put that in next weekend.

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I have a GTC200 wing and uprights with one set of 2 1/2" risers for sale. It has a gurney flap also. I have stock APR end plates or for $50 more have a set of Singular end plates. I would like to sell here in the NW so I don't have to ship it. I want $450 with standard end plates or $500 with Singular end plates. It is in excellent condition, if needed I can email pics but it is just a normal APR GTC 200 wing setup. PH. 541-226-2785 in Grants Pass, Or.
 

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Great deal, sadly I already have a gt200 but if for some reason you part it out I'd be interested in the risers and singular endplates.
 

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I would be installing the StopTech BBK, which came with new Sport pads. I think I'll probably put that in next weekend.

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You're turbo'd right? I ran the Stoptech BBK (Sport rear conversion) with the Stoptech sport pads, (245hp) and they definitely did not hold up. They seem to glaze over and lose bite, I had to continue to use more or more pedal force after the 2nd session. V8R claims the same.
I went back out another day with Cobalt XR2s in the front, still had the Stoptech Sports in the rear cause reasons and it was amazing. It's what i was hoping for from the Stoptech BBK.

Save the the Sport pads for street and/or autox. If you're not boosted or really fast driver, then you'll probably be ok for a little while.
 

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You're turbo'd right? I ran the Stoptech BBK (Sport rear conversion) with the Stoptech sport pads, (245hp) and they definitely did not hold up. They seem to glaze over and lose bite, I had to continue to use more or more pedal force after the 2nd session. V8R claims the same.
I went back out another day with Cobalt XR2s in the front, still had the Stoptech Sports in the rear cause reasons and it was amazing. It's what i was hoping for from the Stoptech BBK.

Save the the Sport pads for street and/or autox. If you're not boosted or really fast driver, then you'll probably be ok for a little while.
140 raging horsepower, and I have no balls so I'm not braking nearly as hard as I should. I think I'll be ok for this summer, but plan on going to PFC 11s for next summer.

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Ok, installing the BBK and Singular ducts, and wanted to run something by you more track experienced people.

I know that whatever hose routing I'm going to do right now will have to change once I get all the intercooler pipes in there this winter, so I'm not wanting to spend too much time, effort, and material on something this temporary. My current thought on hose routing is to terminate the hose a little after the last zip tie in the attached picture.

That wouldn't use too much hose, leaving me enough to use for a more permanent solution after the turbo install. However, do you think there would be enough airflow for me to even bother? I could just not run hose at all, not like I was pushing the limits before.


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My current thought on hose routing is to terminate the hose a little after the last zip tie in the attached picture.
First question, how are you planning on plumbing the bumper? The whole hose thing is to some degree guidance for the air but more moving high pressure air from the nose to a place 1here you want it. If you just let the hoses dangle then you miss out on the pressure differential and might as well skip the houses.

As for hose placement, I wish I was at home so I could get you a picture of what I did. I did the same ziptie to the sway bar but instead of running the hose right to the nose I looped it. This gives me enough space in the hose to unbolt the nose with out having to undo the hose clamps.

Hope that's of some help on how I tackled this problem.
 

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First question, how are you planning on plumbing the bumper? The whole hose thing is to some degree guidance for the air but more moving high pressure air from the nose to a place 1here you want it. If you just let the hoses dangle then you miss out on the pressure differential and might as well skip the houses.

As for hose placement, I wish I was at home so I could get you a picture of what I did. I did the same ziptie to the sway bar but instead of running the hose right to the nose I looped it. This gives me enough space in the hose to unbolt the nose with out having to undo the hose clamps.

Hope that's of some help on how I tackled this problem.
Thanks. I may just skip the hose for now then. I'll be taking the whole front end off this fall/winter to install the turbo and intercooler, at which point I can more easily plan out my ducting.

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What is leading you to install this ducting? Is the car failing you in a way where you need this?

Stock brakes with a real race pad are way more capable than many people realize. Granted I'm not turbocharged and only hit 115-117mph on the back straight of Portland but I almost feel as though the faster I get the less I rely on the brakes and my equipment is lasting almost as long as when I was just starting out. These days my tiny 1.6 brakes just receive quick dabs everywhere but T1.

Obviously someone hitting 125-130 in an FI Miata could make a case for more hardware but I'd really suggest skipping as much of the mod game for as long as you can. You'll know when the hardware is beginning to hold you back! That moment typically feels like you've just cheated death at the end of each session. Which is also how I'd recommend driving a Miata. At all times.

My .02! Enjoy!
 

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Don if you don't have some sort of inlet from the bumper or lip, the hoses are more trouble than they're worth. If you do insist on running them because race car (completely understandable), there's a bolt holding the bumper to the air guide (pictured just to the right of the bumper mount bar) you could mount them to. Either a zip tie or a 3" adele clamp. They'll hang below the bumper and look a little funky, but that's why you need a lip, so....

https://www.ebay.com/itm/90-91-92-93-94-95-96-97-Mazda-NA-MIATA-GV-Style-Front-Bumper-Chin-Spoiler-Lip/361212083967?fits=Model:Miata&epid=1861312212&hash=item5419eafeff:g:-GMAAOSw6chalw9P
 

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Any one have or know of someone who has a pair of 1.8 non-sport rear calipers and brackets that are looking for a new home? I'm pondering a downgrade.
 
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